European Complex Of Lac Crawford Shoes
In Hongkong company, no English name is equivalent to nonexistence.
Lian Crawford asked Shang Jun Sheng, no one knew, said Chris, immediately realized: "old Lian Crawford, very young but has been here for more than 10 years, people are pretty, and have good many shoes."
The Hongkong department store, which is famous for selling designer brand, is a place full of energy. The hall displays treasures. The salesperson is not very special. When the management comes out, the woman can dress the film immediately, and the men's suits are like agents.
Chris also dressed in this, Zegna striped shirt to wear the same suit, a pair of black strap shoes, John Rob card.
Fortunately, he had a soft temperament, diluting the aggressiveness of every corner.
He said that he had placed his personal shoes in a small room, and approached it as if he were a shoe store. He laid more than 40 pairs of leather shoes neatly and neatly. They were all shiny and shiny, old and old, like a group of people squeezed in the courtyard. At first glance, they looked at each other with a deep or fluctuating expression.
Chris said shyly, "it's kind of weird!
Shoes are just my heart. "
Chris still owns hundreds of pairs of shoes, so there is no time to count them.
Two categories account for the big part: foot slippers and regular shoes.
There are more than 40 pairs of flip flops. Most of them are from havaianas, and Brazilian things can be customized in Hongkong. The procedures are not as complex as those of regular shoes: measure a sole, pick up shoelaces, and set up two pieces of Swarovski crystal.
The style did not give much play to the color, but the color could make people look at it. It was green. Chris had three pairs of shades.
He said that the love of slippers is like youth.
When he was still young in 1990s, Japanese fashion had begun to impress young people in Hongkong. Slippers were one of the representatives. In the past two years, they had been put in order.
Chris, who was 20 years old, had only the first pair of shoes. He had forgotten the brand style. He only remembered that Christmas mass. He suddenly felt that when he was respecting the solemn thing, he wore a traditional three piece suit, tied a bow tie and put on leather shoes.
That time was a little bit like a head spin: what happens when a young man first feels his feet wrapped in the cortex?
The answer is that a small buffalo is quietly growing in Europe.
It is long, long, and has a smooth, flawless coat. It is stripped off and dried to make a pair of perfect leather shoes.
Chris's more than 40 pairs of formal shoes are all European brands.
From Cesare Paciotti and Ferragamo produced by mass machines to John rob.
The latter was a small workshop on St. James street in London in 1849, and now it has become the world's most famous private customized men's shoes brand.
Every customer would hear such a small anecdote: an American young man sent his leather shoes back to John Rob shop in Paris in 1925 to repair it, but the war stopped him until the end of World War II, and then returned to Paris to pick up shoes. Of course, the ending of the story was of course John Rob kept the leather shoes intact, and insisted on the slow work and meticulous attitude that the young man who was no longer young would come back in three weeks.
Chris rehearsed the Manifesto of the two generation of the brand family for men's leather shoes: "shoes can not only bring you where you want to go, but also tell others who you are.
When the skin is fresh, it is stained with blood and meat. Leather shoes are the only armor with savage smell in modern men. It melts beauty and violence into one. "
There is a legend about custom-made leather shoes: workshops make a small diagnosis for their feet, some are equipped with X light, and the salesmen have a pair of eyesight. They also diagnose the spleen of visiting customers through short communication. They are roughly classified into five types: masochistic type, self conceited type, frail type, fragile type, and intellectual type.
The more elated, imprudent people, the greater the need for a pair of heavy leather shoes to feel the earth. The opposite is that the shoes of the intellectual type should be lighter and can not add burden to his thoughts.
Chris laughed and said yes, but John Rob's custom-made leather shoes were all heavy, showing the tradition as well as preparing for those wealthy people who got out of the car and got off to sit.
Custom-made leather shoes are quite popular in Hongkong, especially around the The Peninsula Hotel with residual colonial flavor. Once there was a famous "LILY shoe store", which was also famous overseas. Men's shoes and shoes were custom-made, but they were not crowded with old gentlemen as old workshops in Europe. Most of the women were women, and shoes were also covered with brand name advertisements.
The so-called "old toe and honor" local custom shoes store is mostly written by the short story "quality" written by British writer John Galsworthy: the old shoemaker, who looks like leather, makes shoes to the top, as if he sewed the essence of shoes into his shoes. He never advertised, would use the best leather, and do it himself, but in the end, he starved to death.
Chris said that the old custom shoe stores were short of widespread popularity and could not withstand the mass production of industrial production. Modern people are in a hot temper. Hongkong's "LILY shoe store" can not wait for three or four days, let alone some old shops frequently last month or a year.
Another difficult reason for survival is the limited selection of leather materials.
John Rob was probably the same fate. But in 1976, the Paris branch of its family industry returned to Hermes, not only by its brand name, but also by its global reputation.
There is unconfirmed information that Hermes is the number one customer in the global leather market every year.
Another one Chris admired, Spain's Magnanni took the middle route.
The best leather factories in Spain are imported into France or Italy's ostrich skin and crocodile skin. They are all hand-made. They do not advertise and store, but direct sales at large department stores.
Magnanni is "semi custom".
The most expensive part of private custom leather shoes is LAST, which is a unique wooden foot type. It is also a master's polishing. It can not be used as a way for him, but can only be bought with shoes.
Magnanni each shoe number has 25 shoe last.
The third generation descendants of the family invented a technique of hand coloring. Special brushes were made of non publicly available fibers, and three layers of color finished, forming a gradual undulation of the cauda equina. In addition to the traditional black and brown, it could also be painted blue, green or any overflowing color.
A style called "Opanka" is also created for Magnanni, that is, from the sole to the upper, a piece of hand stitched into the open line, so as to prevent the inside of the foot, and the bright line does not magically pass through the shoe.
It seems that the style of Chelsea's leather boots from Britain has become the symbol of Magnanni, which is permeating European style, and is like a cunning trick to prevent duplication. This open line stitching method can't be completed by any machine, but it's all depend on the arduous and time-consuming manual.
Chris's love for Magnanni has also found another benefit: "we Asian people are wide and well dressed behind the feet and feet."
The color of Magnanni is often considered to be more beautiful than steady.
Chris said that according to the European style etiquette, during the day's banquet or formal dress occasions, it is wearing Morning Suit, that is, vest and suit are the same color, with coloured stripes and trousers. At this time, you can wear black and white or colored leather shoes. In the evening, the formal occasion is Smoking suit, which is all the same with the flower colored dress, and the black leather shoes are the most insurance.
As for the world's infatuated British leather shoes, originally for the sake of Scotland's wet muddy swamp trudge, to facilitate shoes drainage, the shoemaker has made many holes in the toe of the shoe, and now it has become the symbol of English and children.
Because it is too traditional to go to extremes: either with the most ancient three piece suit and tie tie, or wearing jeans for western cowboy like, Yves Saint Laurent even designed a silver futuristic leather shoes with slender jogging pants for the game generation generation.
Because of his work, Chris studied in Italy for a year's custom tailored suit.
Personally received the Italy national football team, these muscles of young men's suits can not be customized, shank is thicker than thighs.
The outer fabric is heated and cooled in the steam room, and the tailored hair or cotton material in the interior is both programmed and random, which leads to a tight body shape.
This and other considerations allow him to rely more heavily on hand-made shoes, and also know some "trick and treat". For example, hand soles will place copper sheets like car shock absorption systems. If they are not properly fixed, they may wear out their soles, and they have heard of guests being tied up and optimistic. This is also a "pleasant surprise" brought by handcrafts. But since then, Chris has observed the salesmen when he bought hand-made leather shoes. If he did not try his shoes in advance, he would try it on, so he would buy more.
This fine Hongkong people talk about European style and fashion, and they are more excited and have a delicate feeling towards Britain.
The worship of the English complex has been reviving all over the world. For Europeans, they admire the freedom and snobbery represented by Britain. Another reason for the spread of the whole world is probably because the greatest inventions of the British, gentlemen, are the noble middle class, the distinguished and tolerant people, the belief in fairness, and, more importantly, they are not born, but can rely on the cultivation of the day after tomorrow.
The confidence of a pair of shoes can be unlimited. I sit with Chris in this Hongkong senior department store and look at the real middle class who come and go. They all dress like Britons: dark suits and leather shoes.
Some of them hold leadership in certain areas.
Everyone pretends to have leadership over the world.
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