Leather Classification For Sports Leather Shoes
Leather classification for sports leather shoes
Leather shoes are made up of upper, bottom, outsole, heel, main heel, Baotou, hook heart, and accessories.
There are adhesives, mouldings, vulcanization, sewing shoes and travel shoes.
Upper leather is made of natural leather, that is, cowhide, sheepskin, pig skin, mule horse skin, camel skin, snake Python skin, shark skin and so on. Synthetic leather has synthetic leather, synthetic leather and regenerated leather.
1. Fabric
When identifying leather shoes, the shoe upper material should be checked first and the leather category should be determined.
Such as the use of "genuine leather" grain surface unmodified, with the original natural characteristics of leather: Leather pores, small broken eyes, irregular and more uniform; goat fur hole row row "tile like"; pigskin three holes, a pile, the word distribution.
Yellow cattle skin has fine tissue fibers, rough skin and thick pores.
For grain surface modification, the original characteristics should be carefully classified and identified according to the processing technology.
Aniline leather coated with aniline is characterized by glittering and shining surface, bright light, no glare and no plastic sensation.
Leather made from natural leather is usually made from 5 to 6mm thick, and the shoe making machine should be divided into two layers. The surface layer is a granular layer, and the fiber is compact, smooth, beautiful, with good strength and abrasion resistance. The inner layer is a suede layer, with thick fibers, large gaps and a fluff on the surface.
The top layer leather is more smooth than the two layer leather, and the two layer leather is slightly rough.
The two layers of leather are coated, pferred or coated, so that the surface can not be seen rough. However, the film pfer leather has low temperature resistance and easy to crease when the temperature is low.
Cowhide two layers of leather spread flat, no obvious defects after embossing, and pigskin two layers of leather are often visible three piles of pore eyes, where the luster is dark.
We should pay attention to the distinction between shaving leather and frontal leather. The shaving leather destroys the original grain layer, then presses the pattern, and the pattern can imitate cattle, sheep and pig skin. But the pattern has no pores, the patterns are floating on the skin surface, and the positive leather holes exist. Careful observation can identify them.
Artificial leather is coated with a layer of organic material on the cloth substrate, divided into thin (imitation sheep leather), thick (coated with foam organic material, pressed on the pattern) two, used for women's shoes and children's shoes.
Synthetic leather is made from organic leather and pressed with embossed layer, which is used for sandals.
The regenerated leather is grinded with leather and fiber. It is bonded by high pressure adhesive to form flaky sheet. Then the sheet is needed to thickness and then be coated to make it have certain leather characteristics. It is used in bags and leather products, and a small amount is used for shoemaking.
First, look at the appearance of genuine leather and man-made materials. The leather is bottomless and the artificial material has a base.
With hand touch, the artificial material feels very strong and shiny, and feels cold in winter. The leather is smooth and feels cold.
Using thumb to press the softer part of the front of the shoe, there will be many small and uniform patterns around the thumb. The thumb will be lifted and the pattern will disappear. The artificial material may not have any pattern, but may also have a rough texture. The thumb is lifted and the pattern does not disappear. It shows that the grain surface and the net layer on the surface of the material have been disconnected. The shoes made of this material are not qualified.
Identification of dermis or artificial leather can also observe the cross section of the upper, and the dermis is composed of irregular fibers. After scraping the broken fibers with fingernails, there is no obvious change in the cross sectional area. For the dermis, the texture of the different parts is irregular, and the nose smells fishy and odour, while the artificial leather smells plastic or rubber, and the texture rules of all parts are consistent.
The adhesive leather is an artificial surface layer on the loose meat surface of natural leather, which can not be called "genuine leather", but a synthetic leather made from natural leather inner layer.
Two. Shoes, hooks and seams.
Leather shoes are used as reinforcing materials to prevent extended deformation and improve the touch of the feet. They require delicate touch, excellent air permeability, moisture absorption, moisture retention and color.
Middle and high grade leather shoes and shoes are made of natural leather and cotton cloth, and the shoes are man-made leather instead of low grade products.
The bottom of the shoe is the bottom of the pond. When the inspection is done, the shoes will be folded to 90 degrees. They can not be cracked. Some of the fake and inferior shoes are unqualified, and the bottom of the recycled leather pond and the cardboard non-woven fabric pond. Because the latex content of the materials is low, the sweat is softened, and the hook of the sole, a steel plate that acts as a bridge between the bottom and the outsole, may be worn out of the bottom of the pond and hurt the sole of the foot.
The length, width and elastic modulus of the hook are all regulated by the national standard after being deformed by external force, and also have certain elasticity and steel property.
The material should be made of 65 manganese steel and the elastic limit load should not be less than 290N.
Check the upper sewn suture and the upper and sole soles to see if there is any breakage and stitching is regular and neat.
For adhesive shoes, the bottom joint should be glued and smoothed without cracks and no glue joints.
The peel strength of adhesive shoes is 54N/cm, and the shoes of women are 40 to 49N/cm.
Consumers can break or press the upper, such as the color of the upper and outsole adhesion, or the phenomenon of glue, indicating that the bonding is bad.
Three, sole
Leather outsole is divided into rubber, imitation leather, plastic and rubber soles according to raw materials.
Rubber soles are soft and elastic, anti slip, wear resistant, heat-resistant, cold resistant and heavy weight.
The imitation leather is light, stiff, wearable and flexural, but it has poor elasticity and no skid resistance.
Plastic bottom wear-resistant, smooth appearance, bright color, non slip, cold resistance is poor, heavier.
Rubber and plastic soles have the advantages of two kinds of rubber and plastic materials. They are wearable, elastic and soft. They are the first choice for medium and high grade shoes.
The thickness of the front sole of the shoe should be 2/3, and the total thickness of the outsole should be at the same time. When the inspection is done, it is necessary to calculate the depth of the two types of the inside and outside parts of the bottom part. It should not exceed the 1/3 of the total thickness of the outsole. If we fail to meet this standard, we can judge the fake and inferior shoes.
Besides the thickness, the soles should also bear folding and wear resistance.
Because soles are usually made of macromolecule materials, the folding resistance test is carried out on the special folding test machine according to the national standards. After the bending of the soles at a certain frequency, a certain angle and a certain number of times, the split length of the sole is not greater than 40, 15, 12mm according to different varieties.
The wear resistance test of sole is carried out on a special wear-resistant tester according to the national standard. The shoe sole is contacted with a standard grinding wheel and subjected to a certain pressure. The grinding wheel rotates at a certain speed. After a certain wear time, according to the varieties, the grinding mark length is not greater than 16, 12, and 10mm is qualified.
A certain adhesive strength is required between the inside sole and the outsole of the sneakers. When tested, it is carried out on a universal material testing machine or a tensile testing machine. The adhesion strength is not less than 20N/cm, which is qualified.
Four, heel
When the shoes are fixed, they will be clamped together and pulled by pulling machines to see how much pulling force they can withstand.
According to the standard of the heel of the shoe, when the visual inspection is done, break the heel first and then observe the deformation of the mouth.
If the deformation is large and the heel may have problems, remove the insole and see the heel installation.
High heels above 4cm must be fixed with a wooden screw. The whole fastness of the heel is guaranteed by wooden screws and several wooden nails inside.
Wood and material are better, wood screws can not be split through, otherwise the heel can be observed by light breaking or heel loosening.
Five, shape
Place your shoes on the counter or glass panel at random to see if the shoes are stable.
When shoes are placed on the table, the left and right swaying should be stopped immediately. From the tip of the shoe to the rear, the size of the inside and outside edges of the sole should be slightly different from the top of the table, so as to maintain balance and consistency.
The heels should be straight up and down so as not to tilt to the outside or inside.
Third, look down from the upside down, look at the vamp, see the symmetry of the shoe parts and the deformation of the shoe's outline, take the straight line between the toe of the shoe and the midpoint of the heel as the symmetrical axis, and see whether the components on the vamp are symmetrical, so that they can not move forward and backward with symmetry inside and outside.
The outline of shoes should be slightly folded in the shoes, smooth and round, and twisted into loaded leaves with poor quality shoes.
The appearance inspection of shoes should also pay attention to the fact that the surface is not allowed to have obvious disability, loose surface, coating layer falling off, cracking and discoloration.
The overall structure of the shoes should be straight and flat, and the shoes should not be exposed. The same parts of the two shoes should be symmetrical. The hardness, color and structure of the soles should be consistent. The length of the front and rear sides should not be significantly different.
Both the upper and the bottom should be tightly combined, and there should be no obvious wrinkles on the sides.
Six. Hand test.
Touch the inner cavity of your shoe with your hands to see if the shoe is uneven.
Wherever you can touch your feet, you can't be bumpy, or your feet will blister. In general, you must have an insole in your shoes.
The shoe pad can keep the shoes clean and cover a few uneven nails on the bottom.
In general, men's shoes are half insoles, and women's shoes should be integral insoles.
Then use the hand to pinch the heel of the upper to see if it is stiff and elastic, not perfect, or it will hurt the ankle.
The bottom of the shoe is the trunk and skeleton of the shoe, and press the waist firmly into the bottom so as to keep it unmoving.
Touching the bottom of the shoe with the tip of the index finger downward, let the index finger close to the upper part of the outer ankle, and see whether the second finger knuckle line of the index finger is highly consistent with the external ankle joint.
The general life shoes, social etiquette shoes and fashion shoes are slightly higher than the second finger knuckle line of the index finger; the lower back shoes and casual shoes are soft side structures, and the lateral ankle height can be slightly higher than the second finger knuckle line of the index finger.
Insert the tip of the middle finger under the front toe sole to see if the height is suitable.
When the head of the shoe tip is exactly enough for the middle finger to indicate the thickness of the belly, it indicates that the front toe of the shoe tip is qualified.
When the toe of the shoe tip is too large, the smoothness decreases; after an hour, the shoes are easily deformed and the feet are easy to fatigue.
It is much better to use diluent leather cleaners, at 1:50, and scrubbed with a waste toothbrush than by direct water.
Because the skin will harden by water brushing, and the leather cleaning agent will not happen. There will be no white marks left after the water is added to the screen, and the price will be very cheap before. Besides, don't forget to apply a layer of maintenance oil after the brush. If the white shoes are made with pparent oil, the maintenance shoes are very durable. Every time they are brushed and maintained, they are like new ones.
These 2 things are usually sold by shoeshine shops, together with no more than 25 yuan, or even less, and they can be used for a long time, very economical and cost-effective.
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