Jean Louis Duer &Nbsp; Hermes' Savior

In May 1st, Jean Louis Dumas (Jean-Louis Dumas) died at his home in Paris at the age of 72. The French business legend reversed the decline of Herm s in the 70s of last century and transformed Hermes into one of the most successful luxury brands in the world in nearly 30 years of CEO career.

Hermes has been the territory of Du Mai from 1978 to 2006. He is the fifth generation of the Hermes family.

Dumet began to lead the company in 1978 when Hermes was at a low ebb. Thierry s (Thierry Herm s), founded in 1837, was originally a harness maker and developed into a company that covers clothing, jewelry and accessories in the late 20s.

Hermes first introduced the zipper into France, and produced the first leather handbag in 1922. In 1937, Hermes's first scarf came out; 12 years later, Hermes launched the first silk tie and Eau d 1; Herm s perfume. Hermes company survived during the German occupation. It is said that when Hermann Goering ordered a picnic bag to Hermes, he did not receive it, because Hermes delayed delivery, and Goering had already lost before he received the picnic bag.

Although Kylie's handbags and scarves were essential fashion trends, the Hermes company was heading for recession because of its conservative image.

Jean Louis Dumas graduated from the French Academy of political science. Before he could think of hippies, he drove a Citroen 2CV to India and Kathmandu for several years. Jean Louis Dumas took over the Hermes company from his father Robert. He faced the risk of growth stagnation after decades of expansion. Jean Louis Dumas's experience as a buyer in bromin DELL department store in New York brought him inspiration and made it more competitive to restore the vitality of the Hermes brand.

Duer began to reinvigorate Hermes in a free and sometimes bold manner. He hired an exciting new designer, expanded the company's product line, expanded the world, and began investing in Saint-Louis, San Luis, Puiforcat and Puiforcat Paul, a fashion company. With some opportunistic features, the encounter between Dumai and Jane Birkin became the biggest success of Hermes. It is said that they sat next to the flight on Paris to London. The actress was carrying an old straw handbag and complained to duer that she might never find a decent handbag. Dumai later invited her to the new workshop designed by Hermes, and invited her to join Hermes to start a novice bag design. Now, the bag has become famous as Hermes Kelly's handbag, and has become the goal of the world's women eager for fashion. Although the most common version of the current price is 7500 dollars, it still does not stop the pursuit of fashion women.

The traditional "envelope" style of the park's handbag has two straps and a simple buckle. This handbag that costs thousands of pounds takes 48 hours to be hand-made, and the is a leather product that needs the longest waiting time in Hermes luxury leather products. According to the different leather types and dyeing techniques, it takes the longest time to wait for over 6 years.

S Kelly's handbag, usually made of alligators, crocodiles or ostrich skin, is inspired by the 50s star Grace Kelly.

In 1978, the income of Hermes was about 50 million dollars. This figure has increased to $460 million in 1990. In 2009, the Hermes company, which owns 300 stores worldwide, posted an income of about $25 billion.

Jean Louis Robert Frederick Dumas (Jean-Louis Robert Fr e d ric Dumas), also known as duer Hermes (Dumas-Herm s), was born in Paris, France in February 2, 1938. The daughter of his father Robert and Amir Maurice Emile-Maurice Herm was married to Amir, Maurice and Hermes, the grandson of Thierry, and became president of Hermes in 1951.

{page_break}

After a year's marriage with Reina, Dumai took part in a buyer training program in New York's DELL department store in 1963. She was an architect and completed Hermes store design. Rena died in 2009.

Duer has a pair of children, namely Sander Lena, Sandrine and Pierre-Alexi, art director of Hermes.

Dumet entered Hermes in 1964 and became chairman of the company after his father died in 1978. Then he began an ambitious modernization and expansion plan and extended his business to the United States and Asia.

With the support of Eric Berg re and Bernhard Sanz (Bernard Sanz), Hermes has lifted its original harness image by introducing the snake skin motorcycle hand jacket and Berg ostrich cowboy leather trousers. Du Mai showed great talent in hiring new talent.

Italy clothing Designer Nino Cerruti (Nino Cerruti) former partner Veronicadi Nishania (V e ronique Nichanian) took over the Hermes clothing business in 1988. In 1997, Belgium's designer Martin Margiela (Martin Margiela) was hired by Hermes as a women's wear design. After Margiela left Hermes in 2003, his successor was more impressive than Gore (Gaultier). This change shook the global fashion industry, but Hermes sales continued to grow. Martin Margiela, who was once an assistant to Gorte, asked Gore who could replace Martin Margiela when he left. Gore later recalled: "I called him and said," I have found someone, but I don't know if you will be pleased with my proposal. This man is me! "

Du Mai actively opened a new Hermes store overseas, and in 2000, he put the company's flag on Madison Avenue, New York. At the same time, he also closed the store.

In addition to investing in Boyi house and Saint Louis, duer and other luxury companies have joined together, including investing in the German Lycra camera company and buying the naming right of John Lobb, a London shoe maker.

"We do not want to sell a way of life, but just a touch." Dumai once said. Craft and elegance are his goals, not Prada's and Gucci's more magnificent and more visible goods.

Dumet completed the listing of Hermes in 1993. Almost 3/4 of Hermes's shares are under the control of the Hermes family, which makes Hermes a few family controlled luxury brands like Chanel (Chanel).

In 2006, as the artistic director and chief executive officer, Du Mai retired due to health deterioration. His successor was Patrick Thomas. He was also the first member of the non Hermes family who led Hermes.

After retirement, duer always carries an old Lycra camera with pictures. In 2008, the company published a collection of photographs, entitled "the photographer: Jean Louis Dumas".

　　 Voices from all circles

Leader

French President Nicholas Cage expressed his respect for Du Mai. He said: "his death is a great loss to France."

Frederick Mitterand, the French Minister of culture, called Du Mai "the symbol of luxury in France" and "people with boundless imagination and foresight". Du Mai attracted the artistic masters such as Jean Paul Gore. The latter revived the Hermes clothing series.

company

In a statement, Hermes commended Dumai as "poet and magician".

Tom Hadi, art director of Hermes footwear and jewelry, told the American women's Wear Daily: "I love him (Du Mai). He is the most amazing person I know in this company. He was so quick in thinking that you could not predict where he came from. This is his main quality. You can never predict his views.

Designer

Martin Margiela sent a statement to the women's wear daily to honor her former boss. Martin Margiela was chosen to be the director of women's clothing in Hermes in 1997. The famous designer recalled his first 5 years of cooperation with Hermes, and his controversial appointment.

"When we first met, he anxiously asked me if I wanted to cut half of" Kylie ", because at that time, the media used" garbage "and" destruction "to describe my design. Margiela said. However, Du Mai finally believed the designer and was willing to give him full autonomy in the creation process. Margiela believed that Du Mai was not only an open mind, but also a charismatic and gentlemanly manner.

From 2004, Jean Paul Gore, the designer of Hermes dress designer, said: "he (Du Mai) is very open and creative, and he is also an excellent businessman."