Leather Technology: Leather Garment Design And Pattern Making

Leather design

When making pattern, the shrinkage of leather should be considered.

The process of leather finishing to cut leather may be incomplete due to the short time, and the leather parts cut according to the pattern will shrink and deform.

In addition, ironing is required in the final stage of finishing, so cold shrinkage will also occur after the leather is cut.

In addition, the material of the curved part is easier to elongate, so the addition of the sleeves and collar should be slightly less than that of the fiber products.

Matters needing attention in leather cutting and sewing

(1) leather

(2) the consistency of leather surface is poor, there are disability, different grain lines, colored flowers and so on. Before cutting, it is necessary to take a serious look at it and mark the seriously disabled parts, and try to avoid the pattern to avoid these parts.

(3) when the general samples are cut, a number of leather methods should be used as a group. At this time, the leather should be selected before the material is cut, and the leather with similar color should be classified as a group.

(4) when making leather garments, in order to avoid the elongation of leather, the size of the product parts is generally added to l 2cm for rough cutting. The leather parts are pressed at 120 degree temperature, and the size of the leather parts tends to be stable after thermal expansion.

The pressed leather parts can be placed for about 10 minutes to achieve a stable size.

Raw material characteristics and application of tailoring technology for leather fabrics

The main raw materials of leather clothing are sheep leather, goat leather, cow leather, and some other rare animal skins, such as deer leather, kangaroo leather, etc.

Sheep leather: fine grain, soft handle, elongation, breathability and gloss, and high grade sheep leather has a special sense of silk.

No matter which material is used for clothing leather, the unit area is required to be light in weight, loose in fiber and properly dispersed, and at the same time, it has a certain elongation.

The leather is full and soft, with little color difference and good physical and mechanical strength.

Within the range of available area, the positive garment leather shall not be wrinkled, cracked, loose, colored, uncovered, or disabled.

The method of symmetry is often used in leather clothing layout, cutting and cutting, that is, the leather's back line is bounded, the left and right sides are arranged and cut.

Leather clothing tailoring, because its fabric is a piece of animal prototype leather, moreover, the size of the skin itself, thickness, disability is not the same. Before cutting, it is necessary to match the color, grain size, thickness, hardness and color of the animals according to the size, style and variety of the garment.

In addition, the skin injury should be marked with chalk, according to the material area (i.e. unit consumption) stipulated by the process, and according to the regulations, the unit consumption should be matched with 1 to 2 sheets of skin.

A leather garment requires a few or more than ten pieces of leather, like a suit coat, which needs about 4 sheep leather.

After leather is selected, it is typesetting.

Layout is a very important process. It must be calculated and arranged, rather than quota.

Whether the structure of the garment is reasonable is to see whether the primary and secondary parts of the leather are properly distributed on the primary and secondary parts of the garment.

For example, the central part of the leather is corresponding to the main parts of the garment, such as the middle, the front, the middle, the big, the collar, the welt (etc.). The minor parts of the leather clothing correspond to the minor parts of the garment, such as the front armpits, the armpits, the small sleeves, the collar, the welt, etc.

Leather garments are different from those of woven fabrics. The remaining leather is different and can be used on another garment, so the consumption should be minimized to reduce the cost.