Hanfu Secret: An Overview Of Hanfu (3)

Style characteristics

There are about nine basic styles of Hanfu, and hundreds of styles are deducted from different styles such as necklines, sleeves, girdling and tailoring.

He is quite different from Western-style clothes, which is different from those of Hanfu and kimono, even influenced by Hanfu, which is enough to embody the characteristics of the Chinese nation.

In terms of form, there are mainly types of "under the coat" system (ancient clothes in ancient times), "deep clothing" system (linking up the clothes under the coat), "skirt skirt" system ("short skirt"), "cut off" system (long gown, outer clothes) and so on.

Among them, the Coronet costume under the coat is the most formal formal dress of the imperial hundred officials, the deep dress is the official uniform of the officials, the dress of the people, the gown is a uniform for all officials and scholars, and the skirt is the dress that women like.

Ordinary working people usually wear short clothes and trousers.

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There are basically two styles of Hanfu men's wear:

Hanfu 1, from the ancient times, the big, the right, the cross, the wide sleeves and the Baomai (such as Qin and Han costumes) represented the Shang and Zhou Dynasties (spring and autumn and Warring States period), Qin, Han, Three Kingdoms, two Jin, northern and Southern Dynasties, Sui, Tang, Five Dynasties, song, yuan and Ming, and influenced the Japanese, Korean and other countries.

The most common pattern of kimono is this.

2, from the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the round neck shirts (Tang Taizong and Li Shimin wore them) lasted for Tang, Five Dynasties, Song Dynasty, Yuan Dynasty and Ming Dynasty, and also affected Japan, Korea and other countries.

The common styles of Song Taizu and Ming Tai Zu are worn by this type of clothing.

So far, the clothing worn by Japan's emperor on some occasions is a variant of this Hanfu.

Note that this collar shirt is also right, with a round buckle around the right shoulder.

Han costume and Han Dynasty dress are different in some places, but the main parts are the same.

The deep clothing of the Western Han Dynasty is the same as that of the Han Dynasty in the Ming Dynasty.

During the spring and Autumn period and the Warring States period, the clothing generally followed the system of Shang Dynasty, but only slightly changed.

The style of the clothes is slightly looser than that of the Shang Dynasty. The sleeves are of two sizes, and the collar is generally straight collar, without twisting buckles, usually tied around the waist, and some are also decorated with jade ornaments.

There were two kinds of belts at that time: one was made of silk fabric, called "big belt" or "gentry belt"; the other belt was made of leather and called "leather belt".

At this time, there was a deep garment. Compared with other garments, there was an obvious difference between the costumes and the clothes.

"Yi" is the coat of a garment. "Continuation" is to lengthen the skirt, and the "hook side" is the style of the coat.

It changed the way of cutting the clothes in the past, and stitched the front and back sides of the left side of the garment, lengthened the back of the garment, and formed the triangle after lengthening.

Qin Shanghei, therefore, the standard color of Qin's dress is black.

But the style is still big, right and left.

Basically following the Warring States period.

The clothing styles of men in Han Dynasty are roughly divided into two types: Qu Ju and Zhi Shan.

Qu Ju, which is popular in the Warring States period, was still used in the Han Dynasty, but it was most common in the early Western Han Dynasty.

In the Eastern Han Dynasty, men dressed in deep garments were rare. They were usually dressed in straight clothes, but they could not be used as formal dresses.

In the Qin and Han Dynasties, it was not only worn by men, but also the most common type of clothing in women's clothing. The clothing was tight, long and tractable, and the hem was generally trumpet shaped and did not show its feet.

The sleeves are wide and narrow in two styles, and the cuffs are mostly trimmed.

The collar part is very distinctive, usually with a collar and a low neckline to expose the coat.

If you wear a few clothes, each collar must be exposed, and up to three stories or more, it is called "three heavy clothes".

In addition, the narrow sleeves of Han Dynasty are tightly wrapped around the neck.

After several turns, the clothes went around the hips, then tied with ribbons, and the clothes were beautifully decorated.

Men and women in the Han Dynasty could wear them.

This dress had already appeared in the Western Han Dynasty, but it could not be used as a formal dress because the ancient trousers had no crotch, only two trouser legs were put to the knees, and the tapes were tied to the waist.

This kind of trousers with no crotch is in it. If the trousers are not covered, the trousers will be exposed. At that time, they were considered to be disrespectful and disrespectful, so they should wear a deep dress.

Later, as the dress became more and more complete, the form of trousers was also improved, with crotch pants (called "Jiao").

Because of the improvement of lingerie, Qu Ju's deep garment around the collar has become redundant, so after the Eastern Han Dynasty, it became popular and replaced the deep garment.

During the Wei, Jin and Southern Dynasties, men's clothes had the characteristics of the times, and they usually wore large sleeves.

Until the Southern Dynasties, this kind of shirt was still popular among men of all walks of life and became a fashion for a time.

During the Wei and Jin Dynasties, women's clothing inherited the custom of Qin and Han Dynasties, and improved on the traditional basis. Generally, they wore shirts, jackets and dresses, and wore skirts under their skirts. The styles were mostly frugal and funerless, the body part was tight fitting, the cuffs were hypertrophy, the skirt was a multi fold pleat skirt, the skirt length was traced to the ground, and the hem was loose, so as to achieve the handsome, smart effect.

In the Tang Dynasty, besides wearing round necksleeves and narrow sleeves, officials wore ceremonial dress on important occasions such as sacrificial ritual.

The style of the dress is mostly inherited from the Sui Dynasty, worn by the head or the caged crown, wearing a large sleeved shirt with a pair of sleeves, and under the surrounding clothes and jade ribbon.

The skirt is the main form of women in the Tang Dynasty.

In the Sui and early Tang Dynasties, women's short sleeves were made of small sleeves, tight skirts and high waist skirts. They were all above the waist, and some even tied under their armpits.

The skirt of the Mid Tang Dynasty was wider than that of the early Tang Dynasty.

Accessories

Headwear is an important part of Han costume.

In ancient Han Dynasty, men and women had grown their hair into bun plates on their heads after adults.

Men often wear crowns, towels, hats and so on.

Women's bun can also be combed into various styles, and beads, steps and other ornaments are worn on the bun.

On both sides of the temples, there are temples and drapes and heads.

The shoes of ancient Han costume are also very particular. The traditional Chinese paintings and dramas are very different from other nationalities. Some of them have very thick soles and shoes.

Toe up is also designed to prevent people from stepping on clothes and falling down.

Sabre is also a part of ancient Han costume.

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Cultural connotations

China is also known as "Hua Xia". The origin of this name is related to Hanfu.

"Shang Shu justice" note: "the crown is worn by Hua Zhang Hua, the great power is summer."

The ten years of Zuo Zhuan justice and dugong: "there is a great etiquette in China, so it is called summer."

China has been known as "the state of clothing and ceremonies" since ancient times, and "dress" has become the pronoun of civilization.

For instance, when the five was at random, the intellectuals and people from all walks of life in the Central Plains fled to the south, retaining the fire of the Central Plains Civilization, and gradually developing the Yangtze River into a prosperous and prosperous place.

The word "Hanfu" was first recorded in Hanshu: "after the number of visits to the Han Dynasty, the clothing system of Yue Han".

The Han Dynasty mainly refers to the Han Dynasty, which refers to the dress etiquette system in the Han Dynasty.

The formation of the name "Han" is directly related to the Han Dynasty.

Just like the traditional clothing of Hu people is called "Hu Fu", the traditional Han costume is called "Hanfu".

Therefore, the basic connotation of the term "Hanfu" was also fixed, that is, the traditional Han costume.

In the book of fan Chuo in the Tang Dynasty, it was explicitly stated that the costume of Datang was "Hanfu". During the song, yuan and Ming Dynasties, some alien rulers also explicitly referred to Han costumes as "Hanfu". For example, "after the emperor came to Jin in Liao Dynasty, the Emperor and the Han officials in the south of the Han Dynasty used Hanfu, and the Han costume of the Empress Dowager and the North Ben Qi Dan served as the legacy of the Five Dynasties."

When the Yuan Dynasty repaired Liao history, it even created a "Hanfu" strip for Hanfu.

Hanfu influence

Xianbei ethnic group in Northern Wei: wearing Han clothing

Emperor Xiaowen of the northern Han Dynasty banned the wearing of Xianbei clothes and changed all the Han clothes.

January 13th 495 (Taihe eighteen and early December two).

Emperor Xiaowen of Northern Wei vigorously implemented a series of Chinese policies.

It is forbidden to wear Xianbei clothes and change to Hanfu.

It is forbidden to speak Xianbei, and Chinese is the only language.

All the Xianbei people who moved to Luoyang were born in Luoyang, and were buried in Luoyang after they died.

The name of Xianbei is Han.

First of all, starting from the royal family, changing Tuo's to Yuanshi, "the rest is changed."

It is also stipulated that the eight great surnames of the Xianbei ethnic group are the same as those of the aristocrats such as Cui, Lu, Li and Zheng Sixing, and the aristocrats of the Xianbei eight great surnames.

The aristocratic aristocracy also practiced the door system as the Han nationality.

It is forbidden to marry the Xianbei people with the same surname and encourage the Xianbei people to marry the Han people according to their family status.

Emperor Xiaowen also took the lead in the establishment of the imperial concubine of the Han nationality with the surname of the Han nationality, and took the five wives of the Han nationality to marry him.

Despite the obstruction and opposition of some Xianbei aristocrats, the reform of Emperor Xiaowen finally succeeded and greatly promoted national integration.

After only several decades, the minority nationalities in the central plains were basically integrated with the Han people.

Japanese clothing: kimono

Kimono, known as "Kimi" or "Wu Fu" in Japan, means clothing from Wu Di in China.

In the era of Nara in Japan, that is, China's flourishing Tang Dynasty, Japan sent a large number of Tang Dynasty to China to learn the Chinese culture, art and decree system, including the dress system.

At that time, they also imitated the Tang Dynasty and promulgated the "clothes order".

The early kimono was reproduced as a Tang suit. After that, the twelve single coat of Chinese dress was also known as "Tang Yi" (Li's Korean dress long coat is also called Tang Yi, although both have more national characteristics).

Although kimono has evolved from Hanfu, it has developed its own national characteristics after a long period of history.

Like men's pants, the waistband of women's clothes gradually widened to a larger scale after the Edo period, and the belt drums moved to the back and developed various styles. It was also the main symbol to distinguish the kimono and the Han clothes.

The patterns on kimono fabrics often have distinctive Japanese national characteristics.

Korean clothing: Royal Costume

During the Tang Dynasty, Xinluo had a very close contact with the Tang Dynasty, and the dress features were almost the same as those of the Tang Dynasty. After the middle of the Korean Empire, the costumes of the Ming Dynasty were absorbed by the costumes, especially the high dress of the women's dress. The official dress, Royal costume and court dress also kept the Hanfu system and changed with the changes of Hanfu. For instance, when the officials in the Tang Dynasty wore the lacing patterns of the head of the black gauze head, the officials of Xinluo had the same style as the latter.

The main differences between modern costumes and Hanfu are that Hanfu is generally handed over to the right and also V, while the North Korean costume is not obvious, similar to the small V collar. The skirt of the dress is especially high, and the hem is very broad and fluffy.

Vietnam clothing: Vietnamese clothing

Vietnam called the ancient Chinese word "Jiao" (Chinese called "Annan"). In the 968 year of the west, Ding Ding (Ding Huan) founded Ding Chao (big Qu Yueguo) and became an independent feudal dynasty. After two years (970 years), he called himself Emperor.

In costumes, especially court costumes, the imperial clothes of emperors and ministers are almost the replica of Chinese Han Dynasty court costumes, emperors and ministers' costumes, trying to look at the crown of the last emperor of the Han Dynasty and yankuai, which are similar to those of Ming Zhaozong's dress. However, compared with Ming emperors, their appearance is smaller.

Taking the official dress of the Han emperor as an example, the crown of the Ming Dynasty was twelve, and Vietnam was six.

During the more than 200 years, Vietnam, which is connected with the mountains and rivers in southern China, is still well preserved with the Ming style clothes. From the late nineteenth Century and early twentieth Century, many valuable photos and historical data of French colonists in Vietnam can clearly reflect this. A typical example is that the photos of the Dragon robes of Fang Su, the French consul of Yunnan in 1898 (AugusteFrancois, August 20, 1857 July 4, 1935), were mistaken for the ancient emperors' Dragon robes or the costumes of Chinese operas. In fact, Fang Suya's costume is the Royal costume of the Vietnamese emperors. From the perspective of modeling, they are different from those of the Ming Dynasty emperors and ministers. After the Qing Dynasty occupied China