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    Struggling For Five Years To Establish Fashion Discourse Right In Chinese Design

    2010/12/4 9:15:00 90

    China's Right To Design Fashion

    In the eight tasks of the "11th Five-Year" development priorities put forward in the outline of the 11th Five-Year development of China's textile industry, "increasing structural readjustment efforts, promoting industrial upgrading" and "cultivating independent brands with international influence" are closely related to China's clothing design industry.

    It can be said that from 2006 to 2010, China's creative industry was gradually recognized by people for five years, and it is also the five year of the great development of China's garment design industry. It is the five year that China's garment design professional quality has been perfected, and it is five years of diversified training of Chinese fashion designers. It is the five year for Chinese fashion brands to enter the world, and the five year for Asia to strive for fashion discourse.



      

    The power of creativity



    In November 2006, Shanghai held the Shanghai International Creative Industry Week. In December, the first China Beijing international cultural and Creative Industry Expo was held.

    The people's Daily published a commentary entitled "calling for the rise of China's" cultural and creative industries ", calling the activities of Shanghai and Beijing the first collective appearance of Chinese cultural and creative industries on the world stage.

    The "cultural and creative industry", which advocates the spirit of innovation and cultural creativity, emphasizes the support and promotion of culture and art to the economy, has undoubtedly become the news key word that has attracted much attention in China in 2006.



    In 2006, the establishment of the Shanghai creative industry center Council and the 11th Five-Year planning of Shanghai creative industry were introduced. The development of creative industries in Shanghai has entered the stage of pition from form construction to form and format construction.

    "Planning" pointed out that in 11th Five-Year, Shanghai will continue to focus on the development of creative industries, mainly including research and development, architectural creativity, cultural media, consulting and planning and fashion consumption in five major categories of creativity, and will strive to 2010, Shanghai's creative industry added value to more than 10% of the city's GDP.



    In November 2007, on the occasion of the second China International Cultural and creative Expo and the China Fashion Week held in Beijing, the Beijing City Industrial Promotion Bureau and Beijing Education Commission jointly sponsored the "fashion capital construction and cultural and Creative Industries Development Forum".

    The forum takes the construction and development of "fashion capital" as an opportunity to provide a platform for interaction and communication between government, industry associations and enterprises, fashion media and universities.



    The role of creative industries in urban development has attracted unprecedented attention. At the same time, creative and commercial value has gradually become a common understanding in the textile and garment industry.



    From the end of October 2007 to the beginning of November, the first "fashion creative space" event was held in Shanghai.

    The event is sponsored by China Textile Industry Association, and more than ten textile industry related institutions including China Apparel Association, China Textile Information Center, and national textile product development center participate in and organize the event.

    Du Yuzhou, President of the China Textile Industry Association and China clothing association, pointed out that "fashion and creativity space" is not only an exploratory activity of multi industry participation in the upstream and downstream industries, but also an exemplary call and guidance for the whole industry to improve its innovative ability.

    He said: "we often mention the contribution rate of technology and brand contribution to economic growth, but they are not only reflected in their contribution to economic growth.

    The ultimate goal of scientific and technological progress and brand development is to improve the contribution of the textile and garment industry to society.

    The so-called social contribution is that the ultimate goal of our production is to create spiritual products and material products for the improvement and needs of people's material and cultural life.

    Therefore, creativity is actually one of our concrete actions to raise the contribution rate of science and technology, the contribution rate of brands, and change the mode of growth.



    The 2008 spring summer series of China International Fashion Week was held in Beijing in November 2007. Whether it was released or not, it was the best time to participate in the design or release.

    From this time on, the two distribution Hall of Beijing fashion design Plaza, located in the 751 fashion and creative industry park of Beijing, has become a regular launching place for fashion week.



    In this fashion week, "Asahi Asahi China Fashion Designer Creative Award" was first awarded to support Chinese fashion designers to publish design works and cultivate Chinese local designer brands.

    The grand prize is Japan's Asahi Asahi Textile Co., Ltd., which has invested in all directions and has been implementing strategic cooperation with China International Fashion week for the first time. It aims to promote the development of Chinese local fashion designers and the Chinese fashion industry in line with international standards through close cooperation between well-known fabric companies and excellent fashion designers.

    By the end of November 2010, Asahi Asahi China Fashion Designer Creative Award has 3 Golden Summit designers and 5 top ten fashion designers in China.



    In the 2-3 month of 2009, amid the haze of the financial crisis, several international fashion Monday films began to fade.

    What is the status of China's fashion stage?

    Wang Qing, chairman of the China Fashion Designers Association and chairman of the China Fashion Week Organizing Committee, affirmed: "the impact of the financial crisis on China International Fashion Week is something we feel, but the actual impact has not yet appeared."

    The design of international cooperation and innovation is displayed on the stage of fashion week.

    The seven wolves brought their new high-end brands, Saint worth international designer series, to the landings again; and the brand of the Chinese business casual men's fashion trend was first held by famous overseas designers.

    Two famous designers, CABBEEN and Shi Jie, are publishing their personal brands respectively.

    In addition, the first time to enter the fashion week show Marisfrolg and the women's wear brand, one is the high-end brand that occupies the mainstream of the domestic market, and the other is the fashion women's clothing brand from the foreign trade to the domestic trade market. Their release will also make a new mark for fashion week in the pition period of the garment industry.



    After 3 years of development, "fashion and creative space" is not only a display activity in the industry.

    In the early October 2010, China in Paris, China's contemporary Showroom, was first held in Paris.

    As one of the official official events of Paris fashion week, it is not only a collective display of Chinese creativity, but also an attempt by Chinese creative designers and brands to explore international channels and explore new business models.

    The 5 designers of the latest series of "Chinese creativity" in the Showroom show fashion art and creative fashion designers were all successful designers from the 2009 China fashion design invitational tournament. Shi Jie was one of them. He was awarded the commercial price prize of the event.

    The new work he brought to Paris is aimed at the high-end series of the "international brand" brand.

    Shi Jie said: "design and business value can not be separated. It must be a cycle of commercial value.

    This growing process allows designers to pursue professionally. "


     

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    Diversification of design space



    From 2006 to 2010, 5 designers won the highest award in Chinese costume design, the Golden Summit Award, of which two came from Shenzhen.

    This is the women's designer Luo Zheng and Liang Zi who held gold in 2006 and 2007. The development of their brands also reflected the rapid development of Shenzhen's clothing industry including Shenzhen's clothing brand and original design from one aspect.

    The statistics of Shenzhen garment industry association show that at present, there are more than 1200 brands of women's wear in Shenzhen, and the output value of the industry is over 50 billion yuan, with more than 2300 women's clothing enterprises.

    At the same time, Shenzhen has become one of the main bases for women's clothing production and export in China.



    Shen Yongfang, Secretary General of Shenzhen garment industry association, said that the leading role of Chinese women's clothing in Shenzhen has basically taken shape.

    She said: "the brand of Shenzhen is not identical and not plagiarized. They have their own position and follow their own goals and take their own direction and route. This is also a foundation and bright spot for Shenzhen's clothing industry to flourishing."



    In September 2009, China Limited was listed on the Hongkong stock exchange.

    For the clothing circles, llun is not unfamiliar with the commercial men's clothing brand, which is combined with the famous teacher of China.

    In March 2006, Ji Wenbo, the winner of the Eighth China Fashion Design "Golden Summit Award", first appeared in China International Fashion Week, and in January 2007, Milan's men's clothing Zhou Liangxiang.

    In the second year, Lai went on to the Japanese fashion week again.

    After 9 years, it is lament that the brand development of Leon is swift and violent.



    As the chief designer of the company, Mr Wen positioned himself as a designer combining with the company.

    He said: "I do not know how many designers can cooperate with the business community for more than ten years, this is a way of growth.

    As a designer, I hope to introduce more works of design which are not only marketable products.

    Whether you do it or do it with your brand, you can achieve good market performance and grow together with the brand, which is the real growth.



    In the announcement of the listed company's fund-raising announcement, it is clear that 30% of the funds raised are used for product design and development, including about 15% expansion of the group's product development studio in Shanghai, the construction of new design and product development studios in Xiamen, training center and sales center, and about 15% of the subsidiary products used for group development for young customers aged 20 to 30 years.

    This is exactly what Ji Wenbo, the chief designer of the company, hopes.



    On November 7, 2009, Liu Yang, the designer of the Chinese fashion designer's Creative Award, presented the "Golden Summit" designer Liu Yang again to the stage of China International Fashion week.

    As the chief designer of Guangdong Liu Yang art creation Co., Ltd., his company has launched design services with several enterprises.

    The project involves men's wear, casual wear, children's wear and professional wear.

    Liu Yang said: "a professional designer needs to grasp well in all fields, set up a style for the enterprise, and make money for the enterprise.

    A good economic benefit can be regarded as an excellent designer. If we can't make money for the enterprise, we should say that the designer is a talented designer.



    In addition to popular brands and designer brands, domestic designers have actively explored whether design can become a brand in recent years. The two "Golden Summit" designers, Wu Haiyan and Wu Xuekai, have given specific answers to market achievements.



    In 2010, the tenth year of the establishment of Beijing Wu Haiyan textile and Garment Co., Ltd., 7 design studios under the company, one of which is clothing design, and the other involves fashion trend research, home textile design, pattern design, image design to the advertising design of an enterprise.

    In 2006, Wu Haiyan opened a branch in Hangzhou, and she put more effort into the "Orient" brand launched in 2007.

    The "Orient" mainly focuses on interior home design. Today, with the flourishing tourism industry, the "Oriental country", which is located in the upper and middle price level, is favored by foreign customers.

    Wu Haiyan said, "everyone has a dream. My dream is to be an oriental country, and to really play the role of the Chinese nation.

    In the past, we design is a point, now we do "Oriental country", we have also considered a lot, considering the whole international and domestic phenomenon, this phenomenon has also led to our thinking on this brand.

    The key to breakthrough is precise positioning, functional value positioning, and exploring the value points of subdivision functions.



    Wu Xuekai, the designer of the Golden Summit, runs a design company with 100 people in Shanghai.

    He positioned his company in providing clothing design services.

    The financial crisis that swept the world from 2008 to 2009 did not stop his company, but brought some opportunities for the design company. However, he thought it was not the ultimate opportunity for design companies and institutions.

    "The embodiment of design value is not a temporary market opportunity, but a long-term embodiment of value.

    For me, a design and creative company should focus not only on the creativity and design of the whole product, but also on the integration of the resources of the industrial advantages, which may be more conducive to the long-term or better development of the design enterprise.



      

    Establishing fashion discourse right



    In November 2004, the outline of "fashion capital" for promoting the development of fashion industry in Beijing was promulgated jointly by the Beijing Municipal People's government and the China Textile Industry Association.

    It is also in this year that the Shanghai International Fashion Culture Festival focuses on China's new local designers for the first time, with the concept of "creative new generation and new Chinese forces" as the concept, demonstrating the original strength of the contemporary Shanghai textile and garment industry.



    In June 2007, the 10th anniversary celebration of China International Fashion Week was ushered in.

    Wang Qing, chairman of the China Fashion Designers Association, pointed out: "to build an international fashion capital of China, we must strive for the right to speak in the international community.

    Discourse power is a symbol of influence and competitiveness, and there must be four support for the right to speak. First, there must be a group of brand enterprises to participate and support; second, we must have original design power and independent innovation brand; third, we must have a group of media fashion reporting teams, and then we can build up the image of fashion capital through media dissemination; the last point is our short board, that is, attracting and creating a strong team of professional buyers.



    In addition to the local action, the Chinese fashion industry has been fighting for the right to speak in the international arena. The Chinese fashion designer Xie Feng and his brand JEFEN By Frankie appeared in Paris fashion week in October 1, 2006 as a turning point.



    Xie Feng chose the "door" as the theme of the first press conference in Paris. He said it was "crossing the corridor of history and opening the door to the world".

    This is the first Chinese mainland brand to be released commercially in Paris fashion week, which indicates that designer Xie Feng has entered the international market.

    About 500 thousand euros needed for the release is borne by Xie Feng's own businesses.



    Grumbach, chairman of the French High Fashion Association, commented on the announcement: "this is the same as the 1973 American fashion designer landing in Paris fashion week."

    He said that Jifen took part in the Paris fashion week and rewrote the history of Paris fashion week without Chinese designers and brands.

    "People used to know that China is a big country in garment production. Today, we show to the world that China can also design clothes, and Chinese designers have grown up.

    China's garment industry has jumped to a new height.

    Jiang Hengjie, executive vice president of the China clothing association, said.



    After Xie Feng, there are more Chinese fashion designers in the world fashion week.

    In 2007, the performance of men's wear designers on the international stage was very eye-catching. Ji Wen Bo carried the brand of Li Lang, and CABBEEN carried its designer brand in Milan men's fashion week and New York fashion Zhou Liangxiang respectively.

    This can be seen as a collective test of Chinese menswear brand in the international commercial market.

    In September 2008, Luo Zheng, the designer of women's clothing, brought her brand "Euro Bren" to the fashion week of New York.

    The American fashion authoritative media is also concerned about the trend of Chinese designer brand.

    As early as in June 18th, WWD published the article that "when the retailers in the US and Europe rush into the expanding Chinese market, the women's clothing enterprises in Shenzhen, which are looking at the United States", are in a hurry.

    WWD's report is not surprising, because the Chinese designer brand enterprise has made a first step on the road of capital. In October 2007, the company announced that it had successfully landed in the OTCBB (OTC) market.



    As Xie Feng said, "Chinese fashion designers can now speak on the world fashion stage, and are closely related to the rise of Chinese civilization and the strength of China's economy."



    In February 2007, women's fashion designer Marco went to Paris fashion week. She tried to find another way out to express the spiritual connotation of Chinese design with its "useless land" series.

    In 2008, mark became the first Chinese fashion designer to be invited to attend the advanced fashion week in Paris. In July 3rd, she published a new work in Paris's little palace garden, "useless luxury".

    Mao Jihong, chairman and director of the two Paris publishing activities, said, "if there is no culture and no art in the chain of clothing industry, people will look down on you." "this is the case," said Mao Jihong.

    Chinese culture began to integrate into the world.



    In recent years, China has been playing an active role in the fashion industry in Asia.

    In December 2003, the Asian Fashion Federation, founded by the Fashion Association of China, Japan and Korea, including the China Fashion Designers Association, was founded in Tokyo, Japan. The Federation aims to enhance the understanding and mutual complementarity among Asian fashion industries through the exchange and promotion of Asian lifestyle and traditional culture.



    In 2006 and 2010, the Asian Fashion Federation held the two Asian Fashion convention in China.

    2006 the theme of Asian fashion conference is "cultural power and industry promotion". In this year, the Asian Fashion Federation absorbs Singapore as a new member.

    By the time the Asian Fashion convention was held in China in 2010, Thailand and Vietnam have become members of the Asian Fashion Federation.

    The theme of this forum is "new generation and Asian fashion".

    At this time, the Asian Fashion Federation's integration of Asian fashion power is not only an exchange in creativity, design and culture, but also a complement to the various industrial resources such as fashion brands and retail terminals in various countries.


     

    {page_break}



      

    All-round training of talents



    In 2005 of the 48 institutions of higher learning fashion design in China launched by fashion designer in, China Central Academy of Fine Arts ranked 27. At that time, the China Central Academy of Fine Arts School of design had only set up a fashion design major for only three years.

    Even a school like Beijing Institute Of Fashion Technology has a long history of developing related majors in fashion industry. In 2003, the school launched the direction of knitted apparel design and launched the fashion media profession in 2005.



    However, during the 11th Five-Year, the development of Chinese universities and fashion related specialties has made great progress.

    In June 2006, the first graduate of the fashion design department of China Central Academy of Fine Arts School of design held a dynamic and static display of his graduation works. This student's graduation design was sponsored by the famous international brand "Shanghai".

    At the China Fashion Week held in March 2009, four colleges and universities held 2009 Conference designs for graduate fashion design.

    Beijing Institute Of Fashion Technology is the tenth time to hold a teacher and student work conference in fashion week. Tsinghua University Academy of Fine Arts is the third time to attend.

    After graduating from Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, the company representatives also met with the students.

    Professor Zhao Weiguo, director of the clothing department of Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, said: "I learned from the process of communication with many enterprises that enterprises need people who are capable of training, besides ability.

    Such as teamwork ability, time arrangement ability and so on.

    The performance of this graduate work is actually a new form of promotion to create employment for students. It is a new mode of exploration and attempt.



    The clothing colleges and universities also added a fashionable and beautiful image to the 2008 Beijing Olympic Games and the World Expo of Shanghai in 2010, reflecting the docking of scientific research achievements with the development and demand of the city.

    2008 the Beijing Olympic Games China sports delegation receives the award clothing from the Beijing Institute Of Fashion Technology design team, in 2010 the Shanghai World Expo professional clothing design plan comes from Donghua University's design team.

    Donghua University in World Expo has seven or eight patents in Donghua's textile, dyeing and finishing fields, which is rich in technology.



    In March 19, 2010, Wuhan University of Science and Engineering officially changed its name to Wuhan Textile University, which became the only university in the country to name "textile".

    Du Yuzhou, President of the China Textile Industry Association, said that "renaming Wuhan University of Science and Engineering as Wuhan Textile University is an important achievement in the rational return of China's higher education development".



    In terms of the training of design talents, local governments are also actively involved. Among them, the Chinese outstanding women's designer discovery program launched by the Hangzhou municipal government in 2007 is the most representative.

    In domestic cities, it is the first time that there is such a large-scale and systematic designer training project.

    Building designer brand has become the top priority in the development of Hangzhou silk dress industry.

    To this end, the Hangzhou municipal government set up a special fund, from 2007 to 2017, invested 4 million yuan per year to support the training and training of outstanding women's designers.

    By building up a team of women dress designers in Hangzhou, we will cultivate and establish the competitive advantage of talents in the development of Hangzhou silk and women's clothing industry, and start the industry brand and "city of quality of life" brand of Hangzhou's "Silk house of China and the capital of Chinese women's clothing".

    In April 1, 2010, after the discovery of the Chinese Elite Women's wear designer, 6 designers from the first batch of Italy public schools returned to China, and the second group of 6 designers went to further education.



      

    Culture and business proposition



    In 2009, when domestic industries were deeply affected by the international financial crisis, the two industrial bases of China's women's clothing industry, Shenzhen and Hangzhou, had not been greatly affected, which stems from the maturity of the development of two local industries.

    Qian Feng, President of Hangzhou Fashion Designers Association, said: "after the financial crisis, everyone's mindset is changing. Happiness and happiness have become the core of Hangzhou women's clothing culture.

    Only a unique industrial culture can make Hangzhou women's clothing develop continuously.



    In December 11, 2009, the China Fashion alliance was formally established on the theme of China's Textile Innovation annual conference featuring fashion discourse and new business models.

    The fashion alliance of China will take the textile and clothing brand as the main body, and realize the globalization of Chinese fashion concept through lifestyle research, fashion trend research and release, and channel docking.



    In June 2010, the Forum on the construction of fashion capital of Shanghai was held. The Shanghai economic and Information Committee of the organizer is considering creative industries and fashion industries as an important part of the next round of Shanghai's urban industrial development in the 12th Five-Year plan.

    At the meeting, Sun Ruizhe, vice chairman of the China Textile Industry Association and director of the China Fashion alliance organizing committee, pointed out that in 2009, China's domestic retail sales reached 12 trillion and 500 billion yuan, an increase of 25% over 2008, and China's domestic market has great potential.

    Vigorous domestic demand has provided ample room for the growth of Chinese brands.



    The development of industry and the competition of brands have jumped to the height of culture.

    In 2010, the international luxury brand Hermes launched a new brand "up and down" in the Chinese market. The brand is led by a famous Chinese designer, and the brand embodies Chinese culture.

    How Chinese brands compete with foreign brands in terms of capital, business channels, design and brand culture in the Chinese market has again become the industry's topic.



    In 2010, the JEFEN brand was founded 10th anniversary, when the designer Xie Feng launched the JEFEN By Frankie dress brand in Paris to return to China's local development, and gradually launched an important commercial geographical layout.

    Similarly, fashion designer Wu Xuekai is confident of the development of designer brand in China.

    "Designer brand in the future will become the focus of the market, affecting and changing the whole business pattern."

    Xie Feng said that China's deep spiritual philosophy and aesthetics are the soul of its brand.

    "In the next ten years, what we need to do is not only to influence people's lives, but to enter the hearts of the world through Chinese culture, Chinese philosophy and Chinese spirit."

      


     
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