How Can We Get The Perfect Shoes?

Since the introduction of CAD, Pattern tailoring Tremendous changes have taken place, but how many of the operators in these systems can fully understand what happened and why? DavidLyon and TonyGarle have more than 65 years of cooperation experience in this field, and have some interesting points.

This is a bold statement, but in essence it is correct. No matter it is artificially, mechanically or through the finest computer system, it is impossible to produce completely accurate plane pattern from curved 3D last.

　　 Plane pattern

In any case, if you know what you are trying to get, you may still get a very good design. This can be proved by stitching the front and rear midline of the inner and outer plane plates to produce curtain cloth that can be clamps only through finger pressure. It will not be perfect. It will not be accurate in toes, backseats and other places.

At first, the plane pattern was passed. A shoe last The seam is wrapped on a layer of leather and cleaned at the edges to preserve the approximate size, shape and surface area of the shoe last. Soak the vamp in water and make a hand pliers. That's enough. The flat pattern can be made by many methods, including grooved paper, plastic and body wrinkle tape. But they must be leveled, which is also possible for practical problems.

The process of leveling the flat pattern will also tell experienced people a lot about how the last and specific vamp will work in processing. The greatest deformation will be creases or folds, or improper stretching and strain. The two conditions can be corrected when carrying the shoe pliers, and good results can be obtained as long as the shoe material is soft and stretchable. It is important to fully understand the reversibility factor so that it can be corrected and compensated in the embedded pattern. In this case, the essence of reversibility is that the upper surface must be stretched in the area where the flat plate is crumpled, and the flat surface should be stretched or cut to expose.

Using hand clippers and a certain degree of machine pliers, the vamp will be compressed around the last, so the length and area can be extended. In the structure like these external forceps, last, soft slippers or socks, the bottom line is shortened by shoe stitching. By changing the seam, the area and length of the upper can be increased or reduced. All these require extremely accurate patterns and sewing, because there is little or no margin margin.

It has been said that shoemaking is made possible by the impossible, transforming the last round into the upper part of the shoe, and then returning to the circle of the shoe. And at every stage, we must understand what the effect will be, how to deal with them, and develop technology to compensate for all the errors you will know. Shoemaking is not as straightforward as many people think.

CAD system

CAD systems have many advantages, but they may also have one or two serious shortcomings. Among these shortcomings, the most important thing is that 3DCAD software is inaccurate based on user's last generation. The basic pattern is responsible for the accuracy and quality of all footwear made on the last shoe. Sometimes, on the basic pattern of long 300mm, there may be up to 60-70mm slope error on the back of extreme cases. Unfortunately, many of the world's styles lose their vitality (which is below the natural slope), which leads to difficulties in clippers and poor quality of shoes.

How do you judge? There is only one very safe way to make a cord or simple pasture with shoes (tennis shoes, football shoes, etc.) and check them on the last. The cord can be made manually according to the size of the shoe last, and at least some of the shoe upper is needed on the pasture. If it has a tight top line, there is no obvious hole or deformation in the key area, so it is suitable. However, any CAD cartographic designer will tell you that developing leveling software is a very challenging project. A more successful system relies heavily on a deep understanding of how to do manual leveling, which is added to the CAD process. Without such knowledge, it is extremely difficult to determine what is needed.

Plane or three-dimensional

A major challenge for CAD vendors is how cartographic designers use their 3DCAD systems. Do experienced draftsman prefer to use virtual 3D last image on screen instead of actually designing on the last surface or floor plan. This is still controversial.

Over the years, ordinary methods have been designed on flat plates or standards, and several times of clipper test are usually needed to calibrate the pattern lines. For a long time now, designing on the shoe last has become a recognized method for most footwear. However, many people using this technology are worried that although the CAD system is still dangerous on the computer screen, the cartographic designer will be required to return to the surface of 2D at least. This is really unfair, because although the front of the monitor is flat, many CAD systems display the last one on the screen.

For example, if you draw a picture around the back of the last one, you will not see the line. Turn the last one and the line will appear. Nevertheless, it is difficult for the cartographic designer to locate the map accurately. The environment with you holding the last hand and the pencil with the other hand is also very different. Here, you can move the shoe last slightly, and you can see the shape of the line from different angles. You can also see the effect of the last curve.

On the computer screen, by changing the perspective of the last and editing the design line, of course, you can do the same thing. It is really a situation that is used to different environments, and a certified cartographic designer may find it difficult to adjust. People in this way will not have this problem, though they will not experience the same feeling of hand contact with the last. In fact, some cartographic experts say that the mouse of the CAD system is an uncomfortable tool compared with the pencil. Of course, the main argument is which can produce the best results in the shortest time.

train

Is it necessary to teach all cartographic masters the way of artificial or pencil on the last step? The idea here is that if you teach basic knowledge and thoroughly understand the principles of interaction between patterns and last, young cartography will find it easier to master CAD system. Since they have the ability to design and develop patterns on the CAD, or to operate the whole process on CAD, it also allows a certain degree of mobility. The latter problem is that the CAD system is still more successful in flatting the flat design than the in-plane design line.

One solution is to design on the last, and then use the 3D digital converter to transfer the pattern line to the last image on the computer screen. In other words, it is not mandatory to draw directly on the screen 3D last image. In many respects, the latter is not as planned as the first step in designing product styles. The development function of design and real style should be perfectly separated, and each can work in its preferred way to get the best final result.