The Avant-Garde Stuck In The Bottleneck

Recently, three people discussed the "parallel world" with me.

On Sunday, my college student's wife said she never cares about entertainment stars.

My classmate is a real estate developer. His wife is a doctor. After "9? 11", the couple left Manhattan for Darien in Connecticut.

I'm sure she and her family don't know and don't care who Snooki is.

"I feel like I live in a parallel world."

She said.

In MSNBC's TV program "Morning Joe", Mike Barnicle also sent a similar feeling.

Barbara Vinken, author of Fashion Zeitgeist, said to me, "the Internet is originally a parallel world created by human beings about self identity and opportunity, but it is more and more like a" dark continent ", which makes people addicted to it and ignores the real world.

This is no coincidence.

Modern life has provided us with various channels of information, and at the same time, it has created a sense of "wasting flowers and getting enchanting eyes".

Everyone is trying to eliminate this sense of loss more or less.

Some of my friends prohibit children from watching TV. They think watching TV is a waste of time and brain loss.

The new fashion photographer Danko Steiner and Daniel Sannwald point out that our lives are full of information and images. Most of them are mediocre works.

The experience of working with magazines makes them feel the conservative mentality of fashion editors and the bottleneck of creativity in fashion industry.

Few people, like Box Studios's founder Pascal Dangin, are committed to finding new fashion images.

After reviewing the famous photographers published in magazines such as Vogue, Harper s Bazaar and Allure for many years, he came to the conclusion that "our life at this moment is not as boring as fashion."

Why do designers and photographers always talk about sex?

Because the attractiveness of luxury goods to consumers has been greatly reduced, and the fashion industry's innovation in products itself has been at a standstill.

The dislocation of sex and sex has replaced it as a new topic of mining, just like opening Pandora's box about Renaissance humanism.

As Mr. Dangin said, "in fact, we still have some concerns about sex."

Last year, Riccardo Tisci, the designer of Givenchy, used the denatured model Lea T in the advertisement, which attracted a lot of criticism.

Raf Simons 2011 in the spring and summer men's show, the male and female models Andrej Pejic's golden long hair and beautiful appearance are striking. The cotton zipper coat and the detail feeling wide leg trousers are designed for the androgynous group.

The designer said, "it's a trivial thing to change people's physical characteristics."

Andrej Pejic has recently appeared in the Marc by Marc Jacobs new advertisement of Juergen Teller palm mirror.

And after Lea T, Riccardo Tisci's new favorite now is Stephen Thompson, a male model with albinism.

Nicola Formichetti, the new creative director of Thierry Mugler, has discovered a new face Rick Genest on Facebook.

In the 2011 autumn and winter men's wear show, the male models imitate the Rick's shrug style, the skeleton skeleton of the skeleton is covered with skin, and the black eye socket is deeply sunken.

In fact, nude, hermaphrodite, SM fantasies and homosexual complex have been in fashion for many years.

For the designers of Riccardo Tisci, such topics may be the most easy to fry, and the audience's acceptance is high.

But in general, they can only spin around in the degree acceptable to consumers.

As early as the 90s of last century, social critics, led by Susan Sontag, have discussed these phenomena.

Klaus Stockhausen, the fashion director of the German version of GQ, said, "all this is just a blind eye to consumption."

As Dangin said, sensational erotic topics can not disguise the fact that the fashion industry lacks originality.

Those designers who really have ideas, such as Martin Margiela, Helmut Lang and Alexander McQueen, have gradually left the stage of history.

London photographer Daniel Sannwald's works, with a touch of futurism, were deeply influenced by director Fritz Lang and early German movies. His photos were criticized by a British fashion magazine editor for his extreme style.

In this regard, he fought back the old works of Vogue, which still seem to be progressive in today's era.

Sannwald inexplicably said: "everyone is eager to please advertisers, which is really hard to accept.

However, this is not a serious disease in fashion industry.

Before becoming a full-time photographer, Danko Steiner was the design director of Vogue. He fought against the dominance of mainstream magazines in aesthetic discourse as well as Sannwald.

Steiner's work is in the Berlin independent magazine "032C," he said. "I always believe that the quality of photography is the only criterion for photography.

I do not exclude business. Independent magazines also contain trash.

In some ways, the popularity of erotic themes reflects the narrow thinking of designers and photographers. Of course, magazine editors and art directors of advertising companies are also to blame.

Fortunately, people can express themselves through various media on the Internet now.

Although some things are more formal than content, the Internet really presents a more vivid, advanced and real world than the show and mainstream media.

One of the functions of the network is to reconfirm the importance of individual creativity.

What Professor Vinken said is that if people can change their physical characteristics through surgery, or like Rick Genest, put the internal structure of the human body on the skin, you will have to reflect on the role of fashion.

It is better to explore technology topics such as carbon fiber cars than the so-called "gender wrong" topic.

The idea of photographer Phillip Toledano coincides with this.

He took a series of portraits of patients undergoing laser cosmetic surgery.

A male actor said he wanted to have an animated figure.

Phillip said, "I think the advantage of science and technology is that it broadens people's understanding of beauty.

People's inclusiveness is so strong and advanced.

He often imagines whether his little daughter will turn blue after taking the medicine after puberty. "Maybe this is the trend of next week or next week."