Hu Junyan'S Interpretation Of How To Build China'S Textile And Garment Industry Standard System
In general, standards are the criteria for measuring the quality of products. In a narrow sense, they are also the admittance between countries.
policy
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Under the background of Global trade integration, how to build a standard system to adapt to the development of the times has become an important topic before China's textile industry.
To this end, I interviewed senior research fellow in the Department of textiles and clothing, Hong Kong Polytech University.
Hu Jun Yan
He asked him to talk about the establishment of the standard system in China.
What do you think of it?
standard
The role?
Hu Junyan: on the one hand, the standard stipulates a unified testing method or a product's performance specification. On the other hand, it is also a barrier to market access.
Data show that after China's accession to the WTO, China's export trade barriers increased.
This is mainly because developed countries, based on their own scientific and technological strength, work out technical regulations, product standards or environmental standards that are higher than those of other countries, establish extremely complex inspection methods and inspection procedures, and adopt technical barriers to products other than their own countries.
At present, the proportion of trade disputes caused by technical barriers has risen from 20% in the last century to 80% in 70s.
But in essence, the standard is the embodiment of technological advantage, not to protect backward production technology, such as Germany, the United States and other places in the formulation of standards, are based on their technology fully achieved, so that their enterprises and products can be listed, and technology can not reach the market can not be achieved, which is actually a technology competition.
For enterprises, the government and trade associations provide the basic method standards, and the product standards are controlled by the enterprises themselves. The quality of the products is good and the competitiveness is high when the enterprises set high targets. On the contrary, their products are automatically priced at low prices and their competitiveness is low.
In the process of analyzing the competitiveness of textile enterprises in Hongkong, we put forward an idea to enterprises that enterprises should actively develop and pform technology. After obtaining corresponding technological advantages, they can protect their advanced technology by applying for patent, and then set up a relatively high standard in the market, that is, from patenting Technology to patent standardization, and finally forming the guarantee of market competitive advantage.
If enterprises want to develop, they must actively develop technology.
What aspects do you think need to be studied in the establishment of China's textile and garment standard system?
Hu Junyan: China's textile and garment industry should pform itself from the status of self-sufficiency and production and processing to a large garment country with its own brand and the right to speak in the world. I think we should study the standard system from the following 5 aspects: the research of standard quality testing system, the research of textile ecological performance testing methods, the research of textile materials testing methods and standards, the research of textile and garment product quality standard system, and the formulation and research of textile machinery product standards.
The construction of China's standard system should integrate different levels of national standards (national standards, industry standards / local standards, and enterprise standards), so as to improve the development of market economy and enhance our ability to respond to two internal and external market changes.
At present, China's standard system belongs to the production standard. In the process of integrating with the international market, to achieve the pformation from production standard to trade standard, it is necessary to form the standard system based on the basic method standard, plus the related product standards matched with the end use products.
The threshold for enterprises to formulate product standards.
The formulation of standards is a systematic project, and it is also the only way to maintain the sustainable development of the industry.
The formulation of standards should rely on the organization of government functional departments, support and supervision, give full play to the coordination and organizational functions of trade associations, so that tertiary institutions and key enterprises in the industry should take an active part in the research and development of standards, and accelerate the pformation of the technological advantages of textile industry into competitive advantages.
China is a large textile producing country, but the international standard of the national standard is very low. What is the difference between our standards and international standards?
Hu Junyan: at present, international trade basically adopts the standards of ISO, AATCC or ASTM. China's national standards are rarely adopted in international trade.
This is related to the content and development of China's standards.
Low standard index and backward research are one of the main reasons that affect the quality of our products.
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Taking tear strength as an example, the FZ/T13007 - 2008 "yarn dyed cotton cloth" stipulates that the warp and weft tear strength of top quality and first grade products reach 7.0N (150g/m2 below) and 12.0N (150g/m2 or above) respectively.
In this preface, it is noted that it refers to the ASTMD4232-01 (2008) standard.
When we look at the ASTM standard, we find that the American standard divides the tear strength into three grades, and the worst strength of the fabric below 150g/m2 is 11N.
It can be seen that the difference between standards is the main reason for the difference in product quality.
From the point of view of standard research and development, taking the single combination test method of moisture absorption and quick drying as an example, there are 877 standards in foreign countries up to 2009, and the time for formulating them has started since 1958, while only 357 in China.
After entering twentieth Century, the detection methods of harmful substances were studied internationally.
According to statistics, in the relevant patents, the United States led the English language patent the first place, followed by the Japanese, while the number of patents in the Chinese language family is significantly less.
This shows that the domestic technology research in this area is lagging behind, and the development of new technology is not enough. The result is that with the constant revision and improvement of foreign standards, the threshold of domestic textile exports will be higher and higher.
A gratifying phenomenon is that the research on energy saving and emission reduction technology has received widespread attention in Asian countries. Our country has invested a lot of manpower and material resources to carry out this research, hoping that the formulation of relevant standards can be published at an early date.
What are the problems in China's standard setting?
Hu Junyan: first of all, the existing standard system in China is different from that in foreign countries. For a large number of products, there are few national standards for products in foreign countries. Instead, they are mainly stipulated by the enterprises according to the price of the products or the purchasers, which stipulate the specifications, performance indicators, inspection rules and packaging of the products in the contract or agreement with the buyer.
This trade type product standard is the general trend of international development, which is worth learning from.
Secondly, in terms of standard research, domestic standards are obviously lagging behind the relevant foreign standards.
Lack of standard setting time, imperfect content, and lack of proprietary technology restrict the development of China's standards, resulting in low national standard in international trade.
Finally, the standard formulation obviously lagged behind product development.
Production and marketing are usually only when a certain function of the textile has led to a long dispute or some unexpected incidents have occurred, and the departments concerned haste to take advantage of it and introduce relevant standards.
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