Luxury Logo &Nbsp; Imprint Changes
The secret of Swiss watches lies in the time and process of grinding and chamfering.
fine
Degree, these established watches become
extravagant
Product rules of the game.
For luxury goods, it contains
Aesthetic feeling
It was originally impossible to define, but for the wrist watch, as early as 1886, the Swiss had stipulated the "Geneva Seal", which made the beauty of Swiss watches become traceable.
In fact, this year coincides with the establishment of the Geneva seal 125th anniversary, which is a celebration for many Geneva brands. After all, they are in the most difficult period.
However, aside from these remarks, several major Swiss brands have been fighting against the use of Geneva's imprints.
The establishment of the seal of Geneva was originally the product of local protectionism.
More than 100 years ago, the production of other parts of Switzerland went on sale in Geneva, resulting in fierce competition, endangering the survival of local watch factories.
In order to protect local industries, the Geneva government adopted the Geneva imprint act, allowing local manufacturers to use half of the shield as a symbol of eagle and half key.
Of course, in addition to having to be a local manufacturer, the manufacturer must also meet the requirements of the 12 codes in handling the movement.
The Geneva imprint rule specifies in detail the standard for every part of the movement, which is almost standard in grinding.
At the same time, it is necessary to accept the examination and approval of the 8 members appointed by the Ministry of public education, the Geneva time extra inspection office, and obtain the certificate to qualify for the Geneva imprint.
In addition to the certificate, there is a small lead seal, which is fasten on the wrist strap buckle or the hanging ring of the pocket watch. When you take it off, you will have a "pleasure when cutting".
The 12 strict rules of Geneva stamp make some watches brand go up, which is also a sign of luxury watches.
Up to now, many brands' tabulation technology is no longer difficult to polish and surpass the restrictions of the 12 codes.
Many brands of watches, such as Audemars Pigeut and Jaeger Le Coulter, do not set up factories in Geneva. Besides their production sites, their movement is already in line with the Geneva imprint standard.
Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin have won the right to use Geneva stamps on every watch.
In 2009, Patek Philippe announced its departure from Geneva's imprint and changed to using its own "Patek Philippe imprint".
This caused a lot of topics in the wrist watch circle.
The new Patek Philippe imprint is more stringent in the tabulation process.
According to the data, the new imprint requires that the splint and the edge of the substrate should be polished and mirror polished. The front of the splint should be strewed with Geneva stripes, and the back should be rolled on scales, while the substrate should be rolled on the front and back.
Zhong Yonglin, a famous player, wrote: "Geneva stripe is not necessary, but it is further emphasized here, indicating a more detailed requirement."
Unlike Geneva's imprint, the Patek Philippe imprint has not only the requirements for the movement, but also the planning of the service and the future of the brand, "inclusive, internal and external", and really does what the advertising language says: "you can't really own a Patek Philippe, you are only looking after this watch for your children, you are creating the tradition of your own family."
Finally, several brands in Baihua Town, Ru La Valley, Switzerland, have jointly launched a FQF (Fondation Qualite Fleurier) certification.
The imprint was set up for Geneva's imprint. It not only put forward higher requirements in writing, but also tested it more strictly.
Each brand has to pay an annual fee of 100 thousand Swiss francs, each paying 45 Swiss francs for the printed list, and 3 self testing fees.
At the same time, each batch of completed watches also need to send around 5% to accept the third party named Chronofiable test. If one of them is not qualified, the whole batch of cores can not be printed.
Such harsh conditions allow the annual output of watches with such imprints to be around 2000.
No matter what mark it belongs to, the beauty of wrist watch can not be calculated, and different brands have high points in the same rule.
Just the chamfering of the splint can take dozens of minutes and take dozens of hours.
{page_break} only mechanical watches assembled and adjusted in Geneva are eligible for Geneva imprint, and each unit must be engraved with an independent production number.
1. all parts in the movement, including mechanical devices with complex functions, must conform to the standards set by the Swiss wrist watch inspection organization for the non mandatory inspection of watches produced in Geneva.
The corners of steel parts must be polished by chamfering, and the chamfering edges must be leveled and symmetrical. The surface of the parts must be smooth as silk, and the screws must be polished or spherically scrubbed, and the circumferential edges and grooves must be polished.
2. all wheel sets, escapement wheels, CHS and balance wheels must be fitted with ruby bearings.
As for the gem of the splint, it needs to be polished to a semi pparent state. Besides, the central axis of the main splint is excepted ruby, and the inside, outside and groove of the splint must be carefully polished.
3. the outer bolts on the balance wheel must be fixed by the sliding dome neck neck screw cap outer block.
Adjustable type supporting screw bolt (movable type wire feeder) is also acceptable.
4. the spring adjuster, that is, the speed indicating pin.
Allow the use of embedded or fastening systems and must have fixtures and fine-tuning; fastness pins have locking systems to prevent displacement and ultra-thin movements.
5. the adjusting system of the balance wheel can use the swinging nail with variable rotation radius and the first and three criteria.
6. all the gear wheels or gear arms should be handled on the upper and lower sides. The joint of the small teeth must be ground and modified, and the surface of the wheel must be grooves and polished.
For gears with the equivalent thickness or less than 0.15 millimeters, only the outer edge of the single side is used as a bevel treatment.
7. all steel gear teeth and their cross faces, wheel shafts and rods must be polished and polished.
8. mandatory use of light escapement wheels: large escapement wheels must not exceed 0.16 mm in thickness, while the thickness of escapement wheels with a diameter less than 18 mm can not exceed 0.13 millimeters.
9. in the structure of the lever escapement system, the angle of movement of the horse or the escapement fork must be fixed and restricted by splint, and the pins and bolts must not be used.
10. it is allowed to install the core with shock proof function.
11. the ratchet and crown wheels in the upper chord system must be made in accordance with the special requirements of the registered model.
12. prohibit the use of round bar wire spring.
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FQF (Fondation Qualite Fleurier) certification did not appear until 2004. Now it has been approved by Swiss Confederation political and law. It is a quality assurance mark created by the foundation of Chopard, Bovet, Parmigiani, Vaucher and other companies.
To determine whether or not to meet the certification: first of all, we need to obtain the certification of the official astronomical organization C.O.S.C (that is, the astronomical observatory certification). The movement of the core must be up to a certain standard. The finished assembly must be tested by Chronofiable. Finally, a special Fluriertest tester can be used to do all kinds of postures for 24 hours of simulated human hands. The accuracy must be within 0~5 seconds per day (exceeding the standard of C.O.S.C authentication can be slowed down for 4 seconds), so that the certificates issued by Fondation Qualite Fleurier can be obtained, and the special marks of FQF certification can be obtained on the movement and the back of the table. It is responsible for inspection by an independent technical committee.
Compared with the Geneva GENEVE mark, there is no regional restriction on FQF certification.
However, it may be that the fund's brand influence is weak, resulting in other traditional brands.
FQF (Fondation Qualite Fleurier) certification did not appear until 2004. Now it has been approved by Swiss Confederation political and law. It is a quality assurance mark created by the foundation of Chopard, Bovet, Parmigiani, Vaucher and other companies.
To determine whether or not to meet the certification: first of all, we need to obtain the certification of the official astronomical organization C.O.S.C (that is, the astronomical observatory certification). The movement of the core must be up to a certain standard. The finished assembly must be tested by Chronofiable. Finally, a special Fluriertest tester can be used to do all kinds of postures for 24 hours of simulated human hands. The accuracy must be within 0~5 seconds per day (exceeding the standard of C.O.S.C authentication can be slowed down for 4 seconds), so that the certificates issued by Fondation Qualite Fleurier can be obtained, and the special marks of FQF certification can be obtained on the movement and the back of the table. It is responsible for inspection by an independent technical committee.
Compared with the Geneva GENEVE mark, there is no regional restriction on FQF certification.
However, it may be that the fund's brand influence is weak, resulting in other traditional brands.
FQF (Fondation Qualite Fleurier) certification did not appear until 2004. Now it has been approved by Swiss Confederation political and law. It is a quality assurance mark created by the foundation of Chopard, Bovet, Parmigiani, Vaucher and other companies.
To determine whether or not to meet the certification: first of all, we need to obtain the certification of the official astronomical organization C.O.S.C (that is, the astronomical observatory certification). The movement of the core must be up to a certain standard. The finished assembly must be tested by Chronofiable. Finally, a special Fluriertest tester can be used to do all kinds of postures for 24 hours of simulated human hands. The accuracy must be within 0~5 seconds per day (exceeding the standard of C.O.S.C authentication can be slowed down for 4 seconds), so that the certificates issued by Fondation Qualite Fleurier can be obtained, and the special marks of FQF certification can be obtained on the movement and the back of the table. It is responsible for inspection by an independent technical committee.
Compared with the Geneva GENEVE mark, there is no regional restriction on FQF certification.
However, it may be that the fund's brand influence is weak, resulting in other traditional brands.
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