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    Does Modern China Need National Costume? Uniform Dress Nostalgia Or Retrogression

    2011/10/13 14:31:00 41

    National CostumeHanfuTang SuitQipao

    Eleven during the long holidays, students from all over the country wear "

    Hanfu

    "Or" Confucius "or cultural performance.

    Just after the holidays, several professors called for the establishment of a "national service element library".

    The discussion on national costume is also becoming more and more intense. In the Han costume, Tang suit, Qipao and Zhongshan suit, which is more suitable for "national costume", it has become the focus of controversy.


    Of course, there are also opponents who think that nowadays, in the era of freedom, people no longer need uniform clothing to express their characteristics. It is more urgent to understand the problems between theory and practice in traditional culture, rather than entangling them in details.


    So, what kind of traditional clothes do Chinese need to represent the Chinese cultural tradition?


    [national costume should not be completely restored to the ancients]


    The debate on "national costume" has been debated. What causes people to put forward the concept of "national costume" again and again?


    Sun Liqun, a professor of history at Nankai University, said: "personally, I do not think it is necessary to find a national costume that can represent China. Many people advocate the national costume, which is caused by the retro wind and the craze for Chinese culture. The idea of nostalgia in the society is always popular. Some people feel that the past is not as good as before, and what is good in ancient times. This kind of thinking is actually a misunderstanding or prejudice in learning Chinese culture."


    Scholar autumn wind is one of those who agree with the "national costume". He said, "I think there should be a national costume. Nowadays, suits are popular, and people wear suits in various formal occasions.

    It is absurd for a big country with a long civilization but not a formal dress to wear.

    Of course, I do not agree with complete retro, whether Hanfu, or

    Clean loading

    It's unrealistic to become a national costume.

    I hope to have a cultural consciousness, which can be expressed on clothing, which can not only inherit traditional culture, but also be suitable for modern society. As a formal dress, it appears on important occasions. "


    How to make today's national costume? Autumn wind says: "designers can design, participate in public discussion, and develop some clothes representing Chinese culture.

    As for life, we can advocate more traditional ceremonies and costumes, but without compulsion, people can freely choose and choose western style.


    Ancient costume is the embodiment of hierarchy.


    So what should the national costume be like? Tang suit? Hanfu?

    Long gown and mandarin jacket

    Cheongsam? What kind of clothes can represent Chinese culture?


    Sun Liqun said, "in fact, costumes in traditional Chinese society are not as good as they imagined.

    Traditional China is a hierarchical society. There are very strict hierarchical differences in clothing. Officials are different from the people. Officials and officials are different. What kind of clothes do they wear? There is an insurmountable chasm. Once they are crossed, they must be severely punished.

    The difference between these grades is very meticulous, including styles, colors, patterns and other clothing contents.

    Therefore, the ancient clothing is not only the representative of civilization, but also the embodiment of the hierarchy. "


    On the other hand, traditional clothing has been changing for thousands of years without constant signs.

    Sun Liqun said: "the clothes of the pre Qin period are different from those of the Wei and Jin Dynasties. The Wei and Jin Dynasties and Sui and Tang Dynasties are different. The Sui and Tang Dynasties are different from the song and Ming Dynasties. They can be said to be changing all the time, and no one Dynasty has provided uniform clothing. This is hard to achieve."


    Since there has never been a uniform national costume in history, it means that there is no standard that can be referenced today.

    Autumn wind also believes that there is no need to completely integrate national costume. In formal occasions, there can be a garment that represents Chinese traditional culture, and there is no need for everyone to wear it in life.


    National costume is more like costume.


    In recent years, in the activities of "national costume", "Chinese clothes" and "Hanfu", people wear clothes that look like a figure, but often fail to deliberate. Even critics say that those costumes are more like costumes on stage.


    Sun Liqun said, "I think the so-called national costume is actually a beautiful imagination and can not be realized.

    I have also seen pictures of some college students wearing colorful clothes. They really can not afford to study, they look like ancient clothes, but they are not strict.


    China's clothing itself is changing with the fashion changes, and there is no uniform standard.

    Some people like Hanfu, but the clothing of Han Dynasty has no standard.

    Sun Liqun said, for example, the Wei and Jin Dynasties are only worn by a few people. If they wear clothes like that, they need to have money, leisure and status. Can people work in broad robes and big sleeves? Generally speaking, most people are short clothes, short clothes and convenient labor. They are not only practical, but also conditions.


    Therefore, today's fashionable clothing, Hanfu, national costume and so on are not necessarily genuine historical costumes.

    More importantly, after thousands of years of hierarchical clothing system, do people still want to pay for their clothes? Sun Liqun said: "today people dress very freely and have many choices. It is unthinkable to go back decades."


    There is no uniform standard for clothes.


    One of the most important problems in traditional clothing activities is the diversity of traditional Chinese clothing.


    Sun Liqun said, "there are 56 nationalities in China. Each nation has its own clothing.

    In history, there have been a lot of confrontation and integration. In the era of Confucius, being left behind was regarded as uncivilized, but when he arrived at King Zhao Wuling, he launched Hu Fu riding and shooting to Wei Xiaowen emperor, and promoted Sinicization. This kind of cultural blending, confrontation and exchange has been continuous. To this day, we should have a modern understanding instead of using traditional concepts.


    Confucius said, "microtubule Zhong, I am left behind."

    In fact, today, whether Confucius is left or right, it should not become a symbol of clothing. This is also a noteworthy issue in today's "national costume" trend.

    As Sun Liqun said, "clothing is the choice of freedom, the result of personal aesthetics. Freedom is a little bit broader. It is good to let people choose what they like."


    Classic reading


    Qiu Qiu Ju Lu, Yi Yi Yi's clothes; long Ju song, Guan Zhang Fu's crown.

    Qiu also heard that the gentleman's learning was also abundant, and his clothes were also in the countryside.

    Book of Rites


    That is, without clothes, with sons.

    Book of Songs


    Huang Di, Yao Shun and his clothes are ruled by the whole world.

    Zhouyi


    There is a great etiquette in China, so it is called summer.

    Zuo Zhuan


    In the spring and Autumn Annals, the barbarians are all over the summer.

    The people of the barbarians are greedy and mercenary.

    Han Shu

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