The Status Quo Of Clothing Industry: The Dilemma Of Chinese Traditional Clothing Culture Facing Fracture

At present, the withering of design originality has become a fetter for China clothing It is a fatal wound of the virtuous circle of the industrial chain. What China's garment industry lacks is not so much the brilliant ingenious design as the deeper cultural essence behind the degradation of design originality. The most direct consequence of this loss of cultural essence is that the Chinese clothing we see is like a collective lost soul, with ambiguous positioning, no labels for identification and deep memory, and no brand building.

　　 The Break of Chinese Costume Cultural Tradition

"We can see that today's Japanese still wear kimonos in certain seasons and occasions, and retain traditional clothes in the ceremony. Compared with Japan, India has Clothes & Accessories Many women wear sari at ordinary times. Hermes of France even opened stores in India for this purpose. Instead of selling Hermes' original products, they designed, manufactured and produced saris and sold them to high-end customers in India. And imagine if one day an international luxury brand came to China, would it be willing to build a cheongsam store for us? " Liang Wendao said, "Of course, the answer is no, because today's Chinese people have lost the tradition of wearing cheongsam."

Influenced by history and other factors, the cultural tradition of Chinese clothing is breaking, and some clues can also be seen from an interesting phenomenon that is worth pondering triggered by the "Sinology craze" in recent years. "What should people wear at the Confucius worship ceremony clothes , which often causes controversy. Some people think that they should wear an improved Chinese tunic, some people say that they should wear a long gown, a mandarin jacket, a cheongsam, and others suggest that they should wear a Han suit... "Liang Wendao said. What people doubt is not only what is the representative Chinese clothing for formal occasions, but also what is the traditional casual clothing outside of informal occasions. People's understanding of traditional clothing with Chinese symbols has become increasingly indifferent.

　　 The vitality of clothing brand originates from the refinement and attachment of cultural essence

The Chinese traditional clothing culture is facing the dilemma of breaking, but the revival of the clothing industry is not a simple continuation of the old clothing. Liang Wendao pointed out that the correct direction should be to extract the essence from the thousands of years of Chinese dress culture and integrate it into the current dress design. "This is also the countless designer They are all pondering over the problem of exhaustion, but it is a pity that a large-scale trend has not yet formed. "

One of the examples of refining the essence of this culture is Japan. According to Liang Wendao, on a fashion show in the 1980s, Japanese designers, contrary to the usual practice at that time, introduced a large number of asymmetric tailoring and draped a large number of cloth blocks on their bodies, which did not highlight the body lines of the clothes, but covered the whole body. Later, they also used a large number of black, completely breaking the traditional European view of Japanese clothing. "It is worth noting that many fashion lovers said at that time: 'These designs are Japanese at first sight.' - This is a very interesting comment, because what these designers do is not Japanese traditional kimonos, but very subversive and practical modern clothes, which are still recognized at a glance and labeled with Japanese labels. The key is that these clothes convey The charm reflects the essence of Japanese culture attached to it. The promotion of the international status of Japanese clothing depends on this refining of cultural essence. " It is observed that the characteristics of Japanese clothing design include the emphasis on monochrome, the use of a large number of black, and the emphasis on asymmetric tailoring. In this regard, Liang Wendao explained that black is considered to be a very important element of traditional Japanese aesthetics, and the aesthetic feeling of Japan is asymmetrical. "These Japanese Fashion Designer When studying in Paris and launching their own works, both consciously and unconsciously found this common 'Japanese spirit'. This spirit does not lie in the performance of details, but precisely excavates the core of Japanese traditional aesthetics. " He said, "Since then, people have had the concept and impression of Japanese style clothing, which can be seen as the starting point of the revival of Japanese clothing on the international stage."

Another typical case is Belgium. "The Belgian latest fashion People will think of boldness, structuralism, avant-garde and innovation. These impressions originate from the efforts of two or three generations of designers in Belgium in the 1990s. " According to Liang Wendao, Belgium was originally a country with no obvious clothing tradition, but with the bold attempts of these designers, they broke the tradition and created a unique image of Belgium's clothing kingdom. In addition, American clothing is also deliberately creating an image called "American style". Whether it is an American aristocrat or a civilian, the spirit of this style exists, which is also the driving force and support of design. For brand wearers, with the progress of the times, beyond the basic functions of clothing such as body covering, they often seek a higher internal spiritual resonance from the outside to the inside. Moreover, in response to the homogenization crisis that the whole garment industry is generally facing, the spirit design from the inside out is also the most difficult to be copied.

　　 China Clothing industry Lack of cultural spirit of

You can say that this dress is Japanese style, and that dress reflects the American spirit. However, today's Chinese clothing still does not have the Chinese spirit that can be recognized at a glance. In Liang Wendao's view, this is also one of the reasons why the Chinese clothing industry has not been able to gallop on the world stage.

"When it comes to the image of China, what can you think of? The Great Wall, pandas, or kungfu? What is the cultural value of China? For example, we often say that many Hollywood blockbusters have produced American values. Of course, we also hope that Chinese blockbusters have something of the Chinese spirit, but what is this spirit? Chinese people seem confused, and we seem to have lost this kind of thing." Liang Wendao believes that today's Chinese clothing industry needs to constantly ask itself "Who are we?" Its mission should not be just to look inward for its own development and revival of the clothing industry, but should synchronize with the establishment of the entire national culture and national brands. "China's clothing industry is not an independent industry, and cannot be seen in a split way. Extending beyond the clothing industry, too many creative industries in China are currently facing the same dilemma."

So, how can China find a broad road across fields and industries today? Taking Italy, another important fashion town outside France, as an example, Liang Wendao said that Italy's fashion industry has only been less than a hundred years old, and it began to stop at imitation. "Milan was a follower of Paris at the beginning". The rise of modern clothing that really belongs to Italy is synchronized with the rise of creative industries in other fields in Italy, such as interior design, furniture boutique design, etc. It can also be seen in Japan that many fashion makers are also familiar with architecture, graphic design, film, literature, etc. Look at the classics that have gained voice in the industry today Clothing brand All the successful experiences of the brand show that on the way to becoming a powerful clothing country, the internal spiritual persistence attached to the outside of the naked eye is the real way for a mature clothing brand to achieve enduring success. If Chinese clothing wants to build a brand that can stand up internationally, the key is whether there is a clear integration of Chinese spirit, and China's profound cultural accumulation should play its due role in promoting the progress of the clothing industry.