Design: Unveiling The Secrets Of Handmade Men's Shoes

　 shoes Luxury or necessities? It depends on how you look at the relationship between your feet and shoes.

The most classic answer to the relationship between shoes and feet is in the dialogue between Salvatore Ferragamo and former Romania empress. Ferragamo asked: "your feet are free?" "free?" she replied, "wearing these shoes, my toes are like swimming." Such a sense of freedom, they can not take away from me. "

But when you try to put a pair of shoes You can ask your feet when you wear your grade and wear your dignity. Do you have a good time? This is made up of 26 bones and more than 100 ligaments, which can jump and rotate at any time and bear the pressure of marathon running for several hours. It is tough and fragile, and a blister or a corn eye will make you suffer.

Apart from mechanical shoemaking, wearing a pair of hand-made men's shoes is the only solution.

　　 No, no machinery.

No one is willing to deal with shoes. Shoemaker I'll tell you this. Therefore, the basic skill of shoemaker is to understand the skeleton of human body first. In this regard, Salvatore is a paragon.

Salvatore Ferragamo, a dreamer from Italy to the United States, struggled to find the secret of making shoes fit and had great interest in measuring feet. So when his English level was enough to enable him to understand the contents of the university lectures, he ran to University of Southern California in Losangeles to study the anatomy of the evening school. The first few lectures were about human skeletal structure. Salvatore was fascinated and copied a lot of notes. As the content of the course began to deepen, the lecturer began to turn the topic to other parts of anatomy, but he was still thinking about the human skeleton. In the Autobiography of Salvatore, he recalled, "once I asked a particularly difficult question, but the professor did not reply immediately. He looked at me in contemplation, and then slowly asked, "why, Mr. Ferragamo, why are you so interested in human bones?" I replied immediately: "I am a shoemaker, and I am very interested in feet."

Our feet are the masterpieces of nature. When you put your feet in a pair of unfit shoes, your shoes will resist the natural activities of your feet. The heel will touch the root of the heel, and the toe will touch the toe. Each step, the impact will pass through the toes, impact on the metatarsal joints, and then pass through the metatarsal bone to the arch of the tarsus, which will bear all the impact.

Gradually, the arch of the foot refused to be punished again. Naturally, it began to collapse. The arch of the foot fell to the thumb, and finally the thumb was forced to struggle in the toe of the shoe.

You might as well have a close look at your feet. Can you have big feet pointing to the problem of second toes? Can you have a big toe down or a heel with a bone protruding? If you find one of them, unfortunately, your feet have been deformed due to unfit shoes.

In pursuit of mass production of mechanical shoemaking, in Salvatore, it is a grievance to the feet.

"Making shoes is not like this. This (mechanized shoe factory) is a hell. It's a madhouse. It's full of clatter clicks and endless machines and people rushing around. Thousands of shoes flowed from the production line to the other side of the production line, and hundreds of thousands of shoes that had already been completed were stacked together.

Once again, Salvatore decided never to let the machine touch the shoes of Ferragamo handmade series; that is the most important and fundamental principle - not machines.

Shoe factories that are not tainted with mechanical smell still exist today. If you have the chance to go to Florence, there is a humble workshop in the city. Yes, it is a workshop, no machinery, only manual work - all workers are using their hands to complete the shoemaking process.

　　 Custom, just unwilling to do so.

Although customization often requires many processes and meticulous manual work, it is therefore expensive, but for those who choose to customize it, it is not to show off their status or wealth. It is just a taste, a pursuit of their own personality and a sense of self. Unique you are the real soul of customization.

How do you fit shoes? shoes Of course, we can not easily go through the border. A pair of good shoes should be measured, made of shoe last, choose leather and style. After two times of trying and checking, you can become a pair of hand-made leather shoes that match your feet perfectly.

Everything starts with your feet. Salvatore asked the Duchess of Windsor to take off his shoes and let him touch his feet with his hands. He carefully studied the thickness of the feet and the sole of his feet before he began to make the blueprint of his shoes.

The next step is to make shoe last, which is a key step in customization and an embodiment of identity. In the Museum of Salvatore, people can find many familiar names, such as Duke of Windsor, Greta Gabo, Sophia Rolland, Audrey Hepburn, etc. Lin Chiling, a supermodel in Taiwan, was praised by the Ferragamo brand for playing Chibi in 2008. She specially invited her to make shoes in Italy, while Lin Chiling's shoe last was also shown in the Museum of Ferragamo with Madonna and other famous artists.

Then you need to choose a leather material and style. The goat skin is the most commonly used and special material of Salvatore. This beautiful leather, delicate and elegant, has soft effect on the hands, and many tiny pores are easy to breathe. It is one of the healthy materials. Finally, the whole shoe production process.

In Ferragamo, top men's shoes Tramezza needs more than 260 processes to complete.

"Tramezza" comes from Italian, meaning an ancient shoe making technology, "stitching skills." This ancient craft stems from the efforts of the old shoemaker 85 years ago. At that time, there were not many modern tools to help leather shoes, so the old craftsmen invented the best way to test their skills. They directly stitched the upper into the bottom of the shoe and fixed it on the sole.

First of all, a special waterproof leather is embedded between the shoe sole and the inner pad, which increases the softness and elasticity of the shoes, and makes it easier to sweat and waterproofing. Secondly, the special inner pad can reduce the tired feeling of the feet for long time wearing shoes. Finally, there are visible double hand stitches, which make the three layers of 12 mm thick. Sole It can be tightly stitched together, which requires highly skilled and experienced shoemaking craftsmen.

Therefore, these selected leather from French calfskin or other rare animal leather have been specially processed by printing, napping, suede or lacquer. It needs more than 260 sophisticated and precise hand orders to complete the shoes, which is comfortable, durable and durable. Put in, feet like "swim in the water", free.