Customers' Requirements Make Designers Speechless And High-End Customization Has Not Yet Become A Big Trend

"High end customization" earns millions every day

A high-end customization company in Donghai Road clothing The shop master told the reporter that all the orders received in his shop were tens of thousands of yuan, and if the 50 orders were calculated at 20000 yuan each, it would mean that the amount of orders in a day would reach one million yuan. "

"Compared with big cities like Beijing and Shanghai, Qingdao's high-end customized clothing market is relatively good," Master Huang, who has been in Qingdao for 20 years, told reporters. Master Huang, whose ancestral home is Jiangsu, went to Shanghai when he was a teenager clothes Well, when I was an apprentice, my life was very bleak. " Master Huang told the reporter, "A person who learns this trade has to endure hardships. Starting from tailoring and selecting materials, he has to carefully do every step of the process. The most important thing in customizing clothing is the handicraft. Once the work is done, customers will turn back and become famous."

"A lot of Qingdao people buy clothes for their monthly salary except for meals, which can be seen from the night market in Qingdao. The most people who go to the night market buy clothes. Although the clothes in the night market are not high-end consumption, high-end consumption is still a good market," said an insider, "Generally speaking, customers who buy clothes in a custom clothing store will make clothes all the year round, which is regarded as a consumption habit."

One phone call, Qingdao to Guangzhou door-to-door service

In a clothing customization store on Macao Road, the reporter did not see the smiling face of the tailoring teacher. "Our store is only responsible for receiving orders and clothing maintenance in the later stage. Once there is a customer demand, designer Will choose door-to-door service. " The clerk told the reporter.

Different from the traditional process of tailoring clothes in the store, Ms. Li, the relevant person in charge of the store, told the reporter: "We now have door-to-door service. Once, a customer in Guangzhou said that there was no time to go to the Qingdao store to tailor clothes, so we directly sent a fitness technician to fly to Guangzhou. Another customer was in Chengyang, which is also a door-to-door service. As for the cost of door-to-door service, we negotiated with the customer to jointly bear it."

The reporter learned that in terms of the customization process of high-end customized clothing, it takes about one month to customize a suit, and about four months to customize a dress. "First of all, the image consultant of the studio will communicate with the customer in the early stage to fully understand the customer's needs and personal preferences. After that, the special image guide will tailor the customer in an all-round way. Then, the designer will create according to the direction of the early communication, and make a sample of white grey cloth for the customer to try on. After the trial, the customer can raise the design style The designer will also modify the sample clothes according to the modification requirements. The designer will only use the selected clothes after both parties are satisfied with the modification cloth When sewing clothes, the customer has to try on the unstitched sample clothes and deliver them to the customer after careful modification. " Ms. Zhang, an insider, told the reporter.

　 10000 yuan model based on customer figure

Zhang Yihua is one of the most popular in Qingdao Clothes & Accessories She is known as the first person in Qingdao for advanced customization. On May 30, the reporter visited its customized shop on Yan'erdao Road, including fabric warehouse, design room, processing workshop, where many of the award-winning clothes exhibited at home and abroad were processed.

Advanced customization is not as simple as tailoring. From the measurement, a suit of clothes should be measured several more places than usual. Shoulder width and shoulder inclination. We not only measure the chest circumference, chest height, thickness, spacing, distance to the navel, waist, and even the direction of the back meat. We should record every point of detail. In terms of fabrics, we choose fabrics from all over the world. For example, we will build an archive for VIP customers to make a copy of their body, that is, a one-to-one white embryo. This white embryo is the customer's model. In the design room, Zhang Yihua pointed to a white embryo and said that the cost of this white embryo is more than 10000 yuan, and it needs to be sent to Shanghai for production. Clothes design and tailoring will be completed on this "replica", We also regularly update the physical data of customers. The reason why high-end customization is expensive is that we need to go through more than 10 work processes and 10 times of trial wear and improvement from the initial customer demand communication, tailoring to the final delivery. On average, a piece of high fashion takes more than 300 hours to produce, and the most time-consuming work takes at least one or two months, which is where its high value lies.

　　 Customized high-end clothes also serve as gifts

With tens of thousands of customized clothes, the price is almost the same as that of ordinary brand clothes. Even on the surface, it seems that "high places are too cold", giving the impression of "aristocratic clothing". In this regard, Ms. Li, an industry insider, told the reporter: "The clothes of ordinary brands in the mall are mostly made in several numbers and sizes. The production process is factory assembly line, which is totally different from high-end clothing customization." Ms. Li said: "After determining the customer's needs, we need a person to follow the order, that is to say, the person who tracks the process of clothing production, supervises the sewing process by one person. Some big brands of finished products look very beautiful, and they are also particularly good on models, but some people don't necessarily look good on them, which is the finished clothing Limitations. "

An insider said: "In fact, high-end customized clothing seems to be very expensive, but if it is labeled with a big international brand, the price will certainly not be like this, and may be more than doubled."

　　 "Some customers just see this advantage, so they take a photo from many high-end clothing magazines and give it to us, and then ask us to customize according to the clothing styles of major international brands in clothing magazines. Compared with the prices of major international brands, high-end clothing customization certainly has great advantages. Compared with the big international brands that cannot be customized, high-end clothing Customization also has advantages. " Industry insiders said. In addition, some high-end garment customization enterprises also launched personalized services. "For example, embroidering their own names and exclusive patterns on clothes can be done," Ms. Li said.

"The people who like high-end suit customization are basically successful men aged 35 to 55 years old, who need either business or gift giving." Master Huang, a high-end customized clothing store in the island city, said, "Some customers get cards to give away people in high-end clothing customization stores, and a gift is hundreds of thousands."

　　 The customized store cannot quote customers in the early stage

Public quotation is undoubtedly a "disclosure of trade secrets" for advanced customization stores, so in the face of local customers who love to inquire, customization stores generally have no choice but to give a price range. When a reporter asks about the clothing price of a customization store, the designer is embarrassed, "At the lowest, it's about 8000 yuan. It's hard to say Gao." A designer returning from overseas said to the reporter with a smile that forcing high-end customized designers to say such words is insulting, even vulgar, because they think their design works are works of art and priceless. She said that the reason why the custom shops in Qingdao could not quote customers in the early stage was that the uncertainty of fabric, design, working hours and the quantity of materials consumed would make the price difference very large; So you can't get the quotation until you decide the style to place an order.

At present, top designers in China are scarce resources, especially those with comprehensive quality ability. At the same time, the introduction of top designers means that enterprises need to invest huge labor costs, increasing the operational burden and risk of enterprises. This requires enterprises to establish a sound talent "selection, employment, education and retention" mechanism, which not only dares to invest heavily in the introduction of high-end talents, but also can well avoid risks.

　　 In order to cater to the market, push more people friendly prices

The reporter learned that most of the custom shops in the island city still made price positioning according to the market survey. It is understood that most women's clothing is within 100 million yuan, while men's clothing (usually suits) prices are relatively high, ranging from 80 to more than 100000 yuan, and most of the consumption is within 20000 yuan.

Ji Xiaolong, a beautiful woman with a "handsome" name, studied fabric design in Austria for 6 years, and returned to Qingdao three years ago to open a high-end customized shop.

After his return to China, Ji Xiaolong inspected the market in Qingdao and decided to make the positioning of 2000~8000 yuan

Yihua Zhenghong has designed a relatively high flexible price, from 500 yuan to 20000 yuan, which has been maintained for five or six years. At the beginning, many people were difficult to accept. Most people would also choose the standard of less than 10000 yuan. In the past two years, the price of 20000 yuan or higher has been accepted by more and more people.

Zhang Yihua said with a smile that from the price point of view, Qingdao is not strictly a high setting. The price of domestic advanced customization is many times lower than that of foreign customization, and the price of Qingdao is lower than that of first tier cities. This is mainly because the market is still in its infancy, there is no customized atmosphere, and there is no market for customization.

　　 Some customers' requirements leave designers speechless

Since it is high-end customization and meets all the requirements of customers, Master Huang, who has been engaged in custom clothing business for 30 years, can only change the scheme by force. "Some customers are really helpless. From a professional aesthetic point of view, the clothes made for them are really beautiful. As a result, customers don't like them very much," Master Huang told reporters, "I once met a customer who was relatively young and had a suit ready, but he was not satisfied with his pants. Although it did not meet the professional eye, we had to change the plan if the customer liked the jeans casual style."

　　 "In fact, it has something to do with the dress fashion and dress concept of a city. For example, young people like the fast-food culture. On the one hand, they don't like to wait so long for a garment to come out, and they like to spend the least money to chase the brand; on the other hand, young people lack economic strength and social experience, which is a problem of consumption concept Even young people with more strength will spend their money on buying LV, Hermes and other international brands, and generally will not focus on customized clothing. " Industry insiders said.

　　 High end customization has not become a big trend

"Customization is a word that makes people have a natural sense of superiority." Master Huang said bluntly that the reporter investigated several customization stores in the island city, and the customers were mainly private owners and senior white-collar workers. For them, it is the dream of many people to have a suit of clothes tailored to their own needs. Customers mainly come here to attend important occasions or get married. "The so-called famous products in mass production are just pediatrics, but the primary stage of luxury and freedom. The real luxury is to own something that others do not have. When the price is no longer an obstacle, the spiritual problem that most people think about outside the material is who I am and who I am. The products will have the brand of industrial civilization, and customization is about a cultural state Degree, a kind of pure self realization. " Some people in the industry say luxury. "It is a disadvantage of high-end customization to fight alone without brand culture, and not to establish their own brands like big brands." Industry insiders said that brands such as Chanel and Zegna have played a key role in the success of high-end customization market.