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    The Shoemaking Technology You Have To Know.

    2014/1/20 11:51:00 63

    I Have To KnowShoemakingCraft.

    < p > < strong > scale: < /strong > /p >


    < p > understanding scale (SIZE) should first understand the following prerequisites: < /p >


    < p > A. the length system of countries (regions): < /p >


    < p > 1. Britain and the United States: the British system is made of 12 British English and 8 salted English each time, commonly known as 8 points, the British and American 1/8 inch (no "score"), the length of each English is 25.4 centimeters (metric system) or 25.4m/m, each 1/8 is about 3.15 m/m, each 3/8 is about 8.46 m/m.

    < /p >


    < p > law, Japan - using the metric system (< a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/" > shoes < /a > less than one meter), so it can be called the "centimeter" system, which is 100 centimeters per meter, divided into 1O 1O per centimeter, 1m/m per case, O.5 5 cm, and O.5 6.66 centimeters.

    < /p >


    < p > Taiwan: Shanghai ruler system (less than one foot length of shoes, also known as Shanghai inch), each Shanghai inch is about 1.16 inches, about 3.5cm (each Shanghai size is 10 Shanghai points, each Shanghai is about 3.52 m/m).

    < /p >


    < p > B. countries (regions) scale gap: < /p >


    < p > 1. Britain and America: the difference between the number and the number is 1/3? About 8.46 m/m, which applies to men's, women's, children's shoes, sandals or low price shoes.

    And so on, in addition to the above gap, there is still half a gap, the difference between the level of 1/6, about 4.23 m/m, applicable to men and women full of shoes or market demand for more stringent prices of high priced shoes.

    < /p >


    < p > France: the difference between the number and the number is 2/3 cm about 6.66 m/m, which covers men's, women's and children's shoes.

    And so on, full of shoes, bandages or non strap, drag sandals...

    And so on, there are few high-grade shoes with half grade.

    < /p >


    < p > 3: the difference between Japan: No. and number is l cm, 10m/m, suitable for men, women, children's shoes sandals or low cost shoes (such as canvas shoes).

    And so on, or market consumption is more picky consumers.

    And so on. Apart from the above gap, there is a gap between half and half. The grade difference is 1/2 centimeter about 5 m/m, which is suitable for men, women, full shoes or high priced shoes with relatively strict market demand. < /p >


    < p > Taiwan: the gap between the number and number of the Shanghai is 1, the Shanghai is about 3.52 m/m, the applicable range of men's, women's, children's shoes, sandals or full shoes; the difference between children's shoes and students' shoes can be relaxed, and the gap between two grades is a gap (jumper production and sales), so the gap between children's shoes and students' shoes is 2, and the score of Shanghai is about 7m/m.

    < /p >


    < p > < strong > shoe last scale < /strong > /p >


    < p > shoe last scale, in the same stage, the relationship between each code (scale code) must be a grade difference; for example, the American Style Men's shoes are suitable for young people to wear styles at the first stage. They are composed of #7 numbers to #12 numbers. Among them, the difference between the length and width of the #7 peace pition 8 or other related positions is the same as that of the relevant position scales of #8 and #9 or #9 and #10. Therefore, the concept of "grade difference" can be used as a measure of the accuracy of the shoe last stage.

    < /p >


    "P", the same pair of foot wear factors and production factors have derived a variety of different needs of shoe and shoe last, such as shoe last, shoe last, shoe last, shoe last, shoe last, California shoe last.

    And so on.

    < /p >


    <p>  <a href="http://www.91se91.com/news/index_x.asp">涼鞋</a>楦之三圍和滿幫鞋之三圍不同,主要為穿著因素:滿幫鞋因包腳趾(TOE BOX),所以可有較肥大之腳趾空間(鞋楦頭部較大):涼鞋因露趾(OPEN/OE),所以需有較吻合腳趾的空間(鞋楦頭部較接近趾形);涼鞋亦須有較不影響帶條定位的穿著空間,因此通常腰圍比滿幫鞋粗:以一般英美尺度趾圍等級差1/4而言,滿幫鞋三圍依序為腰圍減一級,背圍加二級,例如趾圍為8?,則腰圍為73/4?,背圍為;81/2?:換算為涼鞋則為腰圍加一級,背圍加二級,例如涼鞋趾圍為8?,則腰圍為81/4?,背圍為81/2?。

    < /p >


    <p>  鞋楦擔負第一線任務鞋楦只是制鞋的媒介,它并非消費品,它擔任的是讓制鞋者藉以完成的一小部份,而非全部,如果把鞋楦看成是制鞋的全部而予充分信賴,忽略了絕大部份的制鞋工作時,就錯了,當然鞋楦對于制鞋來說非常重要,但是其它工作何嘗不重要!“鞋楦”能夠在制鞋業里被塑造成第一線的任務罷了:萬事起頭難,在每一項技術性組配工作步驟,通常會給予工作者深刻的印象!它所能賜給工作者的創痛也是最為尖銳;鞋楦在制鞋過程里的角色和地位,正好足以讓你的制鞋工作.因為開頭的錯誤而全部泡湯!鞋子的實用與否,不是依賴鞋楦就能解決的,它應該和鞋子的容積空間(鞋材及組合)及一雙活動的腳(穿著),加上足供觀賞的外表…

    The relationship between these four entities can not be separated from each other independently. < /p >


    < p > < strong > the shoe last is less than /strong > /p >


    < p > shoes are products that are worn on feet and parallel to the ground. Therefore, a pair of shoes is a good match. First of all, the shoes and the ground are in the same position. The shoes and the ground are in the sole position, and the lines displayed on the sides are called "side lines". The right side shoes should have the right side line, and the right side line is called the standard side line.

    < /p >


    < p > the standard side line is formed by three parts: first, the last point is warped, two, the location, the three, the heel height (the name of the shoe last) or the heel.

    < /p >


    < p > 1, the last tip of the warp: when the shoes are placed on the ground (desktop), the last tip must have an upturned shape. The angle of its upwarping should be A. thick, B. shoe material soft and hard, C. used for wear, D. matched with high and low, and some changes should be made. The last shoe of the general shoe is about 8m/m 12m/m, for example, the thickness of the shoe last shoe should be increased.

    Thin bottom shoes are easy to wear after turning, the last point can be lowered, and the shoes of hard shoes are not easy to walk. It is necessary to increase the last point of the shoe with a large movement. For example, the last edge of a sport shoe can be increased. The heel shoes must have shoes with a large angle and a large angle.

    < /p >


    < p > two, location: the location of the side line of the shoe is located at the place where the toe length is about 2/3, and the width of the ground is about 8m/m 12m/m.

    < /p >


    < p > three, heel suspension height (or heel): there are many kinds of heel shape and size, but the heel must be laid flat on the ground, while the shoes are flat on the ground, except for the location, the rest is flat with the surface and the ground.

    The above three are all up to standard, and you can get the shoes that are comfortable to wear.

    < /p >


    < p > measuring shoe last, mostly for measuring the length, width and circumference of the periphery of the last table, the best tool for measuring the salted tape with unretractable material is the best. The narrower salted tape ruler is the best. The outer radian of the shoe last is measured, and the use of the ruler (Qu Xianchi) is used. But the application of the ruler is only limited to measuring the symmetry of the arc of the left and right feet.

    < /p >


    < p > > a href= "http://www.91se91.com/news/index_x.asp" > women's shoes < /a > last. The ratio of the middle to the bottom is about 9:3:3:2, that is, the foot length is 9, the width of the sole is 3, the distance from the toe to the ground is about 3, and the heel width (about 1/4) is about 2?

    Japanese yardstick is based on the centimeter length of the foot as the shoe number. As for the different styles, the production factories should give up their own professional knowledge. For example, if the feet are 24.2 centimeters long, they should wear a shoe number of #24.5 and a foot length of 26 centimeters. The shoe number should be #26.0 (0 after the decimal point must be marked, the half number must be marked O.5, and the 1/2 should not be marked as the US / British scale): the Japanese scale is limited to Japan, and the rest area is not used.

    < /p >


    <p>  當我們打赤腳行走時候,腳趾圍轉折比較靈活,當我們跑步的時候’腳趾圍的角度必須加大;但當我們穿鞋走路的時候,局限在鞋子里的趾圍,轉折就會受到鞋子的限制,按照行動的需求,鞋子就必須依照用途及結構性予以設定適當的鞋尖翹度,因此制鞋的時候為了適應穿鞋走路,使穿鞋行走不致影響因腳趾被鞋子包圍,因而轉折不靈活所造成的不便(腳趾圍轉折不如意會造成行走困難,上階梯困難或腳尖踢到地上物而摔倒受傷),必須讓鞋尖和地面在靜止狀態時保持距離,這種因穿著而設計的鞋類和地面距離,我們稱它為“楦尖翹度”(TOESPRING);用較厚或較硬的鞋底作成的鞋子,就應將楦尖翹度角度加大,用以抵銷因趾圍轉折不易所造成的鞋著行走障礙,反之用較薄或較軟的鞋底作成的鞋子,就可將楦尖翹度降低或貼地:穿著高跟鞋及跟越高的鞋子,因為已

    By making the feet of high heeled shoes bend to the extreme, in order to give back a bit of comfortable clothes, they can also reduce the last point's warping.

    < /p >

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