Popular Movies And TV Shows Are Accused Of "Wearing Clothes &#34".

The costume drama has been widely welcomed by the audiences for many years. However, almost every ancient movie and TV play is popular. All kinds of "knowledge posts" that criticize them for their historical facts are going crazy on the Internet.

Because of the most intuitive and becoming the target of public criticism, from the early hero of the movie to the TV drama "The Legend of Zhen Huan", and then to the recent "Wu Mei Niang legend", the accusation of "wearing clothes" is endless.

These criticisms are just some wishful thinking that some people do not know.

Are they really too ignorant?

Fully comply with historical design costumes:

Technically difficult to achieve, art is not necessary.

"The longer the film and television story takes place, the older the creator is. The closer the age is, the more faithful the history will be.

But after all, film and TV plays are artistic creation, not archaeological programs, not documentaries, but not clothing history textbooks, clothing design does not necessarily follow the history.

To understand the real situation of the costumes of the past, we should look at historical materials instead of ancient costumes.

Xia Xiaochun, a teacher of Beijing Film Academy who has been engaged in the research and practice of film character design for many years, said.

Many spectators demand that costume design of ancient costumes be completely in accordance with history, which is impossible for experts.

According to Xia Xiaochun, the clothing of the Han Dynasty is only visible from Mawangdui's silk paintings. The details of the original are difficult to understand. The designers must play their creative role in taking pictures of related subjects.

However, even if the story is not so long, copying historical costumes is not realistic.

Wang Zhan, a teacher at Beijing Film Academy, said that the most basic feature of clothing is nothing but style and color. Today we use chemical dyes widely to dye clothes, while chemical dyes are only 200 years old.

"Even if we restore the technology of plant dyeing, it is also very difficult for the process to be similar to that of the ancients.

It is almost impossible to fully comply with the historical design of costume costume.

Wang Zhan said.

Copying historical costumes is not only technically impossible, nor is it necessary in art.

Wang Zhan said that no matter what the story of the ancient costume drama is, the audience is always the contemporary people. The costume design of the art works must consider the aesthetic habits of contemporary people and the visual beauty presented under the lens. The real style of the ancient clothes can not be seen in today's audience.

Far from it, just find a picture of beauty Lin Whei-yin in the mind of the Republic of China and compare with the current beauty, so as to know how quickly the aesthetic trend has changed.

However, this does not mean that designers can design clothes randomly.

Chen Tongxun, a well-known fashion designer, built the movie Mei Lanfang and the TV drama The Legend of Zhen Huan.

The costume of the upcoming costume drama "Yue Yue Zhuan" is also coming from Chen Tongxun's hand.

He said: "when we design clothes, we must abide by the basic characteristics of every dynasty dress. For example, the background of the TV drama" The Legend of Zhen Huan "is set in the Qing Dynasty. So the clothes must be based on the flag, the larger the imperial concubines, the embroidered birds of the civil servants, the embroidered mammals of the martial arts.

As for the details, designers have a lot of space to play. The costumes of the Qing Dynasty are very complicated. The original move to the screen is not good-looking, but the designer has no independent artistic concept.

Chen Tongxun said that designers should not only consider details, but also grasp the whole.

In the TV series "The Legend of Zhen Huan", the appearance of empress concubines has appeared many times, so we need to consider the collocation of clothing colors, so that the lenses can be different from those worn by outdated characters.

The story of the TV drama "Yue Yue Zhuan" took place in the Qin Dynasty. In historical records, the Qin people advocated black, but when designing clothes, they could not wear all the characters in black. In that case, the picture was too depressing, and the audience could not even see the people on the screen.

These problems need to be considered comprehensively by designers, not by "following history".

If you really follow the history, the black clothes in the lens will be even bigger.

Clothing is basically fused with historical elements.

The most important thing is to highlight the style of the work and shape the characters.

The costume design of movie and TV shows and fashion show clothing design are all clothing design, but the difference is so large that the two are almost two different trades.

Chen Tongxun said: "fashion shows focus on popularity, group and product, while the clothing of film and TV plays the task of shaping characters and highlighting the overall style of the work."

Fang Sizhe, a young fashion designer, is one of the costumes designers of the TV drama "Wu Mei Niang legend". Fan Bingbing wears Wu Zetian's clothes on Fang Sizhe's foundation.

"I am not confined to the limitations of the Tang Dynasty. Instead, I use the concept of" big Costume ", which has many embroidery patterns and complex patterns. The style of the collar is western style. The purpose is to make Wu Zetian's image and momentum prominent.

If they are completely designed according to the style of the Tang Dynasty, the audience will feel that the spirit of the queen is not enough.

Besides shaping characters, the costumes of film and TV drama should be unified with the style and aesthetic pursuit of the whole work.

Xia Xiaochun said: "generally speaking, realistic works have strong realism, while the joking, impressionistic and expressionist works are more creative."

Xia Xiaochun made a clear interpretation of this problem by comparing the three films in the Qin Dynasty, including heroes, Qin song and Jing Ke.

The hero is highly enjoyable, emphasizes the big scenes, and the martial arts moves have the beauty of dance. Therefore, its clothing is modern and simple, elegant and elegant, and emphasizes the relationship between the color and the block rather than the details.

In the hero, Emperor Qin Shihuang installed the warriors to the court, conveying the cognition and prominence of the Qin Shihuang's military character.

The story of Qin song is closely related to the folk history. Its folk custom features are prominent, its clothing color is rich and varied, and the style is closer to the historical basis than the hero.

Jing Ke's assassin's King's intention is to emphasize the epic feeling, and its clothing is more realistic, avoiding various colors and seeking a solemn and simple history.

The aesthetic pursuit of works and the need to shape characters are far more directly and forcefully influencing the creation of costume designers than in accordance with history.

As a responsible fashion designer, the important question is not whether it is consistent with history, but a cultural responsibility facing the present.

Chen Tongxun said that in the past few years, a foreign director had asked him to design a costume for a Chinese costume movie. The director asked some of the characters in the play to refer to the ancient Rome style, so as to show the corresponding role in fighting the world's fighting ability, which was rejected by Chen Tongxun.

"Chinese culture is not a culture of power, but a world with a broad mind and a cultural bias. I will not participate in the creation.

I think this is more important than clothing is completely consistent with history. "

Chen Tongxun said.