Chinese Designers In Paris Fashion Week

China

Masha Ma wrote several proverbs micro-blog after the fashion week in Paris, adding many of the implied meanings of the mask on its show.

"You can't kill your dreams, so erase your character, please don't give up."

Chinese designer Masha Ma wrote several proverbs micro-blog after the fashion week in Paris, adding many of the implied meanings of the mask on his show, which is infinitely associative.

A month later, the Shanghai fashion week designer, Shangguan Zhe and artist Chen Tianzhuo's cooperation series released a large number of aliens and genitals elements, so that the audience is like a marijuana party.

Chinese young designers are no longer confined to design consciousness. Their expression of contemporary and self culture, life and even politics is rapidly separating them from traditional embroidery, dragon and Phoenix style ancient designs of the previous generation.

What's more, they show a cool attitude towards the broad sense of national righteousness and revitalization of the industry, instead of embracing more commercial sales, marketing modes and cooperation.

There is no doubt that the new generation of designers has made people see the designer's brand becoming the hope of scale, but at present it is still only hope.

After China's economic take-off, China's fashion industry is highly regarded as the Achilles heel of China's original designers. One, ten, or even one hundred designers can not change the whole Chinese fashion industry. Instead, designers' role in the fashion industry is weakening along with the massive invasion of funds and investment companies.

In the ten thousand step, China's fashion industry has been ranked the top in the world before the expansion of China's economy. According to the data released by China Customs, China's textile and garment export volume has ranked first in the world for 18 consecutive years, reaching 284 billion 70 million US dollars in 2013.

The media and the public's hopes and disappointments for China's fashion industry are mostly due to China's lack of luxury brands such as Louis Vuitton. But is Louis Vuitton a designer brand? Obviously not.

In today's fashion industry, there is no brand that sells for 1 billion dollars. In the strict sense, the designer brand is the designer brand. Louis Vuitton, former creative director of Marc Jacobs, is the new creative and design director of the second line brand Jacobs Marc, Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley, frankly speaking, they can't get a hand in accessories.

Designer and

It is totally two independent concepts. The planning and reporting of "China Power" put Chinese young designers and their brands in the aura again and again, even though they are fledgling, and even the only direct selling channel relies solely on Taobao.

This kind of selfishness and hypocrisy, like the slogan of "China dream", are boring in the face of reality. It seems that the Chinese designers are powerless to lose their full respect for a single designer, which is often the most desirable force of a new designer.

Shanghai fashion week designer Shangguan Zhe and artist Chen Tianzhuo's cooperation series released a large number of aliens and genitals elements, so that the audience is like a marijuana party.

Compared with the high hopes and pressures that have been placed, Chinese designer brands have received very little support.

The first Chinese designers to enter are Yoox, Lafayette, and old Buddha's department stores, but these support are questionable, because localization needs, foreign companies need these to create gimmicks.

On the other hand, the Chinese buyer shops in the same stage of development are warmed up with Chinese designer brands.

Another is the electricity supplier, but the electricity supplier including IT, logistics, warehousing and other infrastructure construction funds are also huge. We see that most Chinese designer brands rely on the third party brands such as Taobao to sell online. Of course, the scale of these brands is not enough to build their own online platform.

Without the support of resources and funds, the development space of Chinese designer brands relying on their own efforts can only be exceptionally narrow, at least slow, and most of these brands can not afford expensive professional managers to manipulate them. Therefore, the whole designer brand industry is only a hope at present.

The real environment will also retain this situation for a long time. The real economy, including the clothing industry, is constantly being squeezed by the real estate, financial and technology industries. The rising cost and financing difficulties are no longer a secret to the real economy, and the factors such as the inherent investment return period of the designer brand are relatively long. The majority of the group and investment companies that really contribute to the rapid development of the brand will not involve them. Most of the Chinese designers can only be aware of it.

For most Chinese companies who start their own businesses, survival is the first issue.

Many of the designers of the previous generation were limited by the sense of honor of "advanced customization". They were satisfied with the "release" of Beijing's fashion week every year to two times, and few real brands left behind. But the surviving exceptions such as exceptions, plain clothes, and Jiangnan Buyi brands turned from the designer brand to the real clothing brand.

It is worth noting that even if the brand name is "designer brand", it is difficult for Chinese designers to enjoy the initiative of high pricing.

The rule of the fashion industry is that in addition to famous artists, quantitative design is difficult to get a high premium, and consumers are really willing to pay for the brand and the cost performance.

In 2012, when I looked at a buyer's shop in Beijing after seeing a bunch of buyers and friends, I recommended some good Chinese designer brands to them. They generally thought that the price was too high and it was hard to touch them, but they said, "if this is Han Han's brand, we are willing to invest immediately."

Few stars like Han Han are born in China's clothing industry. Lack of investment is often a lack of confidence in risk control and anticipation. But if China has a Andrew Rosen character, it may be another case.

As a fashion family and an investor who restores the prosperity of Manhattan clothing district (though this is just a dream), a contemporary clothing brand industry tutor, some of the most popular young brands in the United States such as Rag & Bone, Theory, Proenza Schouler, Alice + Olivia are closely related to it. Andrew Rosen not only participates in investment but also works hard to help these brands develop, and enthusiasm and effort are beyond the obligations of an investor.

Anna Wintour once said that although the United States did not have LV and Gucci, Andrew used its way to create the contemporary American equivalent to European luxury.

Today, the contemporary floors of high-end department stores such as Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus and Galeries Lafayette in Europe and America are largely entrusted to Andrew.

Andrew is not born to be conscious of the fashion industry. He has the Calvin Klein agency business, which has shaped Calvin Klein Jeans into the father of billions of dollars, one of the world's most famous cowboy brands.

It seems that there will be such a person in China. Designer Zhang Da and Su Ran's founder Wang Yiyang have served Yifei dress, but Chen Yifei, founder of Yifei dress, died early because of illness. Unfortunately, he failed to play a greater role in China's original designer brand industry.

Compared with Yifei costumes and the decline of the founder, the almost simultaneous creation of Anta made the "Fujian Gang" play an important role in today's Chinese apparel industry.

This is the inheritance and pulse of the industry. Similar events in the new century also appear in the young technology industry.