Now It Is More And More Serious That The Debate Between Direct Selling And Buying And Fashion Show Is Becoming Increasingly Fierce.

New York fashion week is a popular star.

KanyeWest said recently: "now it's crazy to buy fashion shows. I want to sell winter clothes in winter!"

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The industry's debate over the future seasonal and the simultaneous direct sale of current buying and fashion shows is becoming increasingly fierce.

We are not sure if KanyeWest will have any influence on the fashion industry, but his statement is very much in line with the trend that is now suddenly showing up in fashion show. This fashion show mode has been adopted by fashion brands such as RebeccaMinkoff and MichaelKors.

Britain

Burberry has already bypassed these discussions, and the fashion week model will be completely changed in September.

Looking at the arrival of the fashion show now, but is it really effective? Here's the American media RACKED analyzing the problems and challenges that New York fashion week is seeing now, and you can see the great changes that are brewing between fashion brands behind the fashion show, designers, retailers and consumers.

From the perspective of consumers, fashion schedules have never been of great significance.

Why did the February MichaelKors coat look to be bought until August, when no one could remember the fur coat?

To make matters worse, consumers will probably not wait until November or December when they enter the promotion period.

Until now, in most cases, the main designers have been following the traditional fashion week schedule. The spring fashion show started in February and March, and the autumn fashion show was scheduled for September and October.

But this complaint has been fermented for some time, especially for the fashion week in New York. Inevitably, the brand will eventually abandon the old mode and try to innovate.

The new model options are called "see now buy" fashion show, all consumer - oriented fashion show.

Now the purchase model has been applied to a large number of different fashion shows, including several big brands such as Prada and Burberry, but the trend comes from New York fashion week.

In New York fashion week, this new mode is adopted from MichaelKors to BananaRepublic.

However, since there is no uniform reference standard, the brand used different fashion buying styles in the current quarter.

The following are cases of MichaelKors, ProenzaSchouler, ToryBurch and other brands.

REBECCAMINKOFF

RebeccaMinkoff was the first to announce the purchase of fashion show in December last year. In the February fashion week in New York, the brand was re exhibited in the 2016 spring series instead of the new 2016 fall series.

RebeccaMinkoff's 150 VIP customers will be invited to the site, accounting for about 30% of the total attendance.

Despite the grotesque appearance of the shoulder shirt and sleeveless dress at the time of New York's snowy days, RebeccaMinkoff said that on the day of the fashion show, its New York store also sold T and the same costumes, and the sales of the stores increased 3 times than usual.

MICHAELKORS

After releasing its 2016 fall series, MichaelKors sells a small quantity of merchandise immediately to its online shopping mall and its brand located in Madison Street store.

In an interview, MichaelKors pointed out that consumers do not consider seasonal factors too much. Brands will compare their products directly to users for a Movie Trailer: "trailers can't take the place of the whole movie unless you don't watch it."

At least on the website, no one is sold out.

MONIQUELHUILLIER

MoniqueLhuillier released five autumn series quickly after its fashion release.

CEOTomBugbee has said that it has not yet planned to implant the whole series into the current Buy mode, but they will continue to try.

"We will gain experience from this experiment and will add more innovative practices to the spring series.

We will add shoes and handbags products in the next quarter.

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TORYBURCH

ToryBurch immediately sold three different sportswear and a series of jewellery after the autumn fashion show.

One of these shorts is out of stock.

It highlights the enthusiasm and shopping desire of consumers.

PROENZASCHOULER

ProenzaSchouler chose 8 T stage costumes, including 4 Hava handbags for online marketing. After the fashion was released, some styles were sold in its New York store, which is called the pre-sale version.

The sale ended rapidly at 10 o'clock in February 22nd, and all of the sales caused a sensation, and the online purchase link was no longer available.

DIANEVONFURSTENBERG

DianevonFurstenberg this season's fashion show completely abandoned the traditional T practice. Its fashion show included dance models, interludes and a large number of performances.

WWD reporter BridgetFoley wrote in the commentary: "it's one thing to make KanyeWest and Rihanna wear brand clothes, but VonFurstenber, as chairman of CFDA, is also trying to make the fashion show mode that she buys now.

So far, however, the 6 series of brands has not sold out.

BANANAREPUBLIC

The fast fashion brand BananaRepublic still wants to buy the express train now, and the brand chooses to send its autumn series to the online platform immediately, but the goods haven't sold out yet.

However, this move has been milestone enough. GAP group CEOArtPeck said the brand had made remarkable efforts during the fashion week of New York, but then said that the company realized that the customers would not come to BananaRepublic immediately to find the latest fashions.

"We are trying to lead fashions and trends, and consumers do not want BananaRepublic to do so," ArtPeck said in a recent earnings call conference of Gap group.

In addition, the brand has begun to operate now looking at the current buying mode, from the consumer point of view, the current results have not been as sensational as ProenzaSchouler.

The brand is trying to get closer to consumers, because consumers are the core elements of the fashion industry. As a whole, the discussion of this new model will not be ignored and will continue.

And if consumers do not want to buy big fur coats in sweaty August, that is enough reason for the fashion world to change radically.

"Fashion has always been a product of the separation of function from form," explains JackieChiquoine, deputy editor in chief of WGSN retail intelligence. "The system that we buy now will make the brand more concerned about the functionality of the design."

JackieChiquoine analysis shows: "the distance between the T season and the retail season is partly due to the needs of buyers, fashion editors, stylists and VIP customers. Not every product of every show will eventually go to the retail terminal, and the production flow required by fashion is not always sustainable.

Fashion series needs to be displayed secretly to the industry, and fashion industry is always interested in cultivating exclusive needs of customers.

JackieChiquoine expects the fashion week schedule and the current fashion show test water will probably break the way of all seasons fashion shows.

She explained: "if half of the designers are making seasonal costumes, and the other half of the designers will remain the same, as most French and Italy designers do, inevitably, people will no longer care what the season is, and begin to focus on what products are more innovative and stimulate the desire to buy."

However, there are many changes in the implementation of this business model, especially from the buyer's perspective.

Intermix, fashion director GiaGhezzi, said in an interview: "as a multi brand retailer, this is a more difficult task for our purchasing team.

Because this mode will completely change the delivery cycle and production plan of our more than 200 brands. "

In addition, outside New York and London, consumers are giving orders to the fashion industry, saying that they will never accept the current buying mode.

The board of directors of the French Fashion Association, which is responsible for managing the fashion week business in Paris, has made joint protest. A highly consistent vote is still in fashion week to show the fashion that will not be listed in the next 6 months.

The brands that agreed on the decision included Herm s, Dior, Chanel, YvesSaintLaurent, Balenciaga, Lanvin and DriesVanNoten.

French brand A.P.C. designer JeanTouitou told fashion media Fashionista that all the discussions around the new model were all hype in the press.

JeanTouitou said: "I swear that this mode may take a quarter or two quarters, they will leave a lot of stock, and then they will come up with another idea."

Even in New York, not everyone agrees to give up the traditional fashion agenda.

Designer AlexanderWang admitted that he had not been able to catch up with the current buying trend, but he had not yet seen the rationality of the model.

AlexanderWang told the media: "the business of brand 80% is wholesale, but if buyers enter the fashion week, some changes will become a hindrance to us."

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However, this buying mode is of great benefit to some designers who own their own stores, e-commerce platforms and production teams.

Fashion industry must also follow the rules of Commerce.

Now, buying fashion shows for designers is conducive to product distribution and production.

Now we see that the fundamental problem of buying fashion shows is that consumers do not want to wait for 6 months to complete the purchase. Editorialist, co-founder of online accessories boutique KateDavidsonHudson, said: "the faster the synchronization between buyers and goods, the faster we can increase the frequency of consumer shopping, so that consumers can continue to consume."

"When boots and coats are listed in August, demand for autumn and winter equipment has begun to decline for most markets," KateDavidsonHudson said.

This is the biggest system disorder, which will have a significant impact on designers and retail profits. "

If the industry really goes to the fashion show mode now, this is a huge change for every link in the fashion industry supply chain.

Industry analysts said: "for designers who do not have their own retail outlets, for today's fashion show models, they must carry out a series of rapid design, then pricing and confirmation of sales methods, then booking cloth and making, and ensuring that they can deliver the goods immediately to the retailers after fashion styling. Fashion retailers certainly hope to do so, but for designers, this will be a huge challenge."