Is "Innovation" Really The Life-Saving Straw In The Fashion World?

Now, looking back at 2012, it has been almost 5 years.

In that year, the end of 2012, which was so bubbling up, did not become a reality.

In December 21, 2012, the world was still operating normally, without three consecutive days of darkness and no Noah's Ark in the new century.

But in that year, it became the reality that Apple launched iPhone 5 for the first time to increase the screen size, the initial version of WeChat public platform was born, and Facebook bought Instagram at a price of $1 billion.

5 years later, in 2016, it is about to become the first moment of history. Suppose that even if the doomsday really comes, the human footprint will not disappear like the Mayan culture. Unless the earth explode, it will surely be able to learn from the wreckage of the mobile phone left by human beings when the earth exploded. If lucky children can escape by high-tech Noah's ark, then they will be able to shoot the last farewell time with their cell phones when they say goodbye to their homes.

According to the world clothing and shoe net, smart phones and social media have not changed us, but let us get a channel to enlarge ourselves, but this is a great test for the fashion industry.

In the age of social media, the word "I" is supreme.

During the spring and summer fashion week in Paris in October this year, one of the men's fashion magazines was working in China.

The editor and another famous stylist of the super KOL\ net red level had such a conversation in a local restaurant.

"I think I have to go to fashion week to see the show in person, so that I can see the model and clothes of the model closely through the scenery and lighting of the show.

The complete concept of this season.

The editor said.

"If I let myself choose, I will only go to the show that I am interested in, and why do I want to go to those I do not like?" asked the net red stylist, adding that "social media has really changed all this."

This is a confrontation between tradition and the present, and it is also destined to be a dialogue difficult to decide which is right and wrong, because there is no absolute in this world, especially in this social media era.

Looking at 2016 of the fashion industry, almost all the topics are about social media, because of its popularity, the bottleneck of traditional fashion media, the pformation of fashion business, the expansion of fashion online sales channels to the social media platform, and the fashion retail model is facing the challenge of buying and selling models and Instant Fashion needs. Entities and online sales hope that big data analysis, marketing and communication will be pformed by the influence of net red effect and fans economy.

Maybe you've heard a lot of gossip anecdotes produced by social media: the fashion people who stick to the elite positions challenge and denounce the Internet and social media, the domestic WeChat subscription data is faked, and the Kendall Jenner closes Instagram, claiming that they want to return to real life and quickly return to the world, and the advertisements such as watch brand Jaeger Le Coulter and Papi sauce are controversial. The editor of the American version of Vogue and the battle between the red pages of the fashion red net, if you are concerned about several domestic fashion media people in micro-blog or WeChat, can often see their condemnation between each other, or hear private discussions about "this blogger is very profitable, but very low".

For outsiders, all this is only the "professional" judgment of the old fashioned people who come from the psychology of sour grapes, but in the fashion world, even those who stick to the elite view can not escape the influence of social media.

In fact, few people can leave the smart phone and social media in this era - when you are used to eating, traveling or even sleeping, you need to take the self timer, and the vendors in the domestic market have launched the mobile phone scanning payment service. When the parents who used to criticize the Internet harm began to use the mobile phone to broadcast live, who could doubt that this era has not changed? When we understand a person's character, they are unwilling to spend more time and energy, because the content released from the social media account of the other side can analyze what kind of person he is, or what kind of person he wants to show to outsiders.

Almost every new mode of communication and information sharing was born, and the traditional way has been replaced by the traditional way, but in the past, the inventions of the telephone did not terminate the use of the mail, the appearance of television has not ended the development of the radio station, the increase of the website has not made the newspapers and magazines feel the absolute crisis.

Why is it that social media breaking the ground is not an unprecedented move?

From e-mail, BBS forums, instant messaging software, blogs to Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Snapchat, WeChat, and many live platforms and media, information acquisition and sharing tools have completed the pformation to social media. The latter's function modules involve more and more extensive aspects, and the cost and threshold are more and more simple, so as to achieve the goal of continuously sinking their users.

With user sinking, the core attraction of social media is that users pay more attention to others while paying attention to others.

We exercise, shop, travel, make friends, express opinions, and advocate different ways of life.

If you can't show, communicate, spread, or even make profit in social media, I'm afraid that the impetus to do these things will be greatly reduced now.

In most of the highly esteemed religions, "self" is a kind of nothingness. It is a human obstacle and a goal that needs to be overcome as a non ideal form.

In the same way, "seeing yourself" is the only way to forget yourself. However, most people spend all their lives and stay at the stage of "seeing yourself".

This is not difficult to see from Trump's campaign for social media strategy of the US president, the false news incident that followed, and the increasingly intense democracy and extreme populism. If the social media part is to give more people an opportunity to show their talents, then the side will intensify the importance of users to themselves.

People who are smart and lucky will get caught up in social media. Stupid people will become more stupid. Those who follow conventional rules will sigh that they are not born at the right time. The problem is that social media magnify themselves and make everyone mistaken themselves for being the smartest and luckiest person.

Social media users are sinking, and the elite in the fashion industry is sinking.

2016: the fall of the fashion elite, this is the headline of an article by New York guest at the end of this year.

Indeed, the sense of elitism in the fashion industry is sinking due to the sinking of social media users. The former relies on the propagation characteristics and ways of the fashion industry, and it also makes the elite, including the fashion industry, feel loathing.

Raf Simons, a representative of the elite style, told System magazine that today's fashion industry no longer belongs to the elite of the small group. In this year's publication of his talk with Miuccia Prada, he talked about the world's excellent brands and fashions, and the reason why it is longing for and enjoying Prada is because they feel that they are connected with the brand image and culture created by Prada. This pattern of "birds of a feather flock together" in the past, which is divided and attracted by brands and customers' characteristics, is now replaced by the Y era, the Z era and the population growth point commonly known as the post-90s.

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The rich two generation of the population is also one of the most valued customers of luxury goods and fashion brands. But after a few years of showing off the money, she now wants to become respectable. "I and my friends feel that the image of luxury goods online is too low. It is very easy to invite some stars who do a lot of dirty movies to do activities. Who wants to see what they wear?" I wonder why, since your professional people think low, we also feel like low, who is low? "Judy in Shanghai is outside.

Big data will also frustrate the fashion elite. Now fashion retailers are trying to collect all the information from customers, like seeking fortune tellers, hoping to put their attention on targeted consumption brought by big data, and some media are trying to provide readers with the content that best suits their interests through data analysis.

This means that the important reference to design and creation will be data, rather than obscure and mysterious "inspiration", and no longer rely solely on the knowledge and talent of the elite.

For a long time, luxury goods and fashion industry are smaller than other fields, and their controlling power belongs to a few people in the tip of Pyramid. But obviously, this field has been carved up by a large number of outsiders.

In this regard, Trump's election has indirectly symbolized that the fashion elite's strong elite model must be hit hard. It's not because of a person's appearance or power, but because of the so-called elite group's self closing due to the long-term complacency of the status quo, which is already a hollow shell with empty table.

But broken Airbus, no matter how democratic the fashion world is, it needs leaders in the end, but elitist leaders can't be the same as before.

Because it is social media's magnification of users' self-worth that indirectly stimulates another characteristic of human beings: forgetting.

Is "innovation" really the life-saving straw in the fashion world?

As for the reform of social media and the decline of the elite position, most people regard innovation as a real straw, but is fashion really an innovation industry?

Rather than innovation is the core of the fashion industry, it's rather a sense of distance built up in various ways.

Like a SM queen holding a long whip, she may not be beautiful, but what she can give you is the pleasure that ordinary people can not give; she is also like a sociologist, psychologist or an astrologer, who knows how to look at it, knows the preferences of those who hook up from the smallest expressions, and she is also a dictator of dictatorship. When you have a possessive desire for the famous Birkin bag of Herm s, it is not because of "innovation".

In fact, since its inception, its design and modeling have never been substantially changed.

From the 2015 primer to the Vetements this year, the fashion business review BoF recently made its main brain Demna Gvasalia a figure of 2016, and thought that its new pioneering work in the business mode and fashion aesthetic level is the key to be respected. However, throughout the brand's strict wholesale, third party sales channels, procurement quotas and price measures, it is a common way for luxury goods to ensure a sense of distance.

The only difference is that in order to adjust the sales cycle of the seasonal products, the brand has rearranged the show time.

From the design level, the old fashioned fashion people may not understand why Vetements can be so hot. The repeated traces of Demna Gvasalia's early works on Martin Margiela are also widely seen in her works. However, even after being regarded as mythical Christian Look in the era of Christian Dior, it is only a new style that is popular because of the social background of the times.

Vetements and the new generation of Gucci are the products of this era. They represent two extremes respectively: the former makes people feel that there is no sense of beauty; the latter makes people feel beautiful, but beauty is not the key. There are always such extreme cases in the history of fashion. The key is that their appearance has circulated history in a specific period and has become an antidote for the current fatigue of aesthetic consumption.

But in the age of social media, the antidote of this antidote can only act as a painkiller.

The enlargement of human consciousness by social media has made the attractiveness of whips in past luxury and fashion brands smaller and smaller.

In December 22nd, Franca Sozzani, editor in chief of Italy edition Vogue, died of illness. I'm afraid people can't remember this year.

It is not surprising that the death of Franca Sozzani set off the climax of less than 48 hours at home and abroad. People recall her pioneering work, lament the uncertainty brought by this troubled times, and recall how exciting the past beautiful times are. But this is just like the social media hotspots of Chinese dumplings such as haze and winter solstice. Behind the thinking, they are full of stereotyped thinking mode, and can not resist the timeliness of social media.

The past innovation is great. In the fashion industry's speed, it is nothing but a dragonfly. If it can not be used in the past, its historical significance can only exist in books.

The reason why the fashion industry admired the elite is the sense of distance and coercion brought by its authority and dictatorship, so that people will bow down. The social media is like a wild beast. In the process of releasing human nature, it almost tore the firm armor and made the slogan of those who shouted new people become empty slogans.

This is why we focused on the Longchamp Media Center launched by China last week, because the thinking behind its birth is based on the understanding of the most meticulous needs of the target group, which is exactly the fundamental thing that luxury and fashion brands should not forget in social media. How sensitive you are to the world, and how many opportunities you can get along with the social animals and the big data, the beast that is born by human nature, in a peaceful way. It is also the reason why the WeChat media center is so popular.

But if you still can't let go of the good times in the past and sigh the chaos and disorder of this era, you must blame Steve Jobs and his team.

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