Is It A Qualified Textile Person To See If You Can "Get Cloth From The Face"?

In all kinds of textiles

If we can not correctly judge the fabric quality and quality, it will be easy to make mistakes in fabric processing or clothing production, thus affecting the appearance of garment.

Using simple method to determine the quality and quality of fabric is the essential accomplishment of every textile person.

This time, Xiaobian will give a detailed introduction to the identification knowledge of fabric appearance from aspects of positive and negative recognition, reverse alignment, defect identification, weft discrimination and correction.

Positive and negative recognition

The identification of fabrics is positive and negative, except for the sensory methods of eyes and hands. There are also identification of fabric's structural features, color features, special finishing effects, and the labels and seals of fabrics.

1. identify fabric structure according to its structure.

(1) plain fabric: plain weave.

The opposite is difficult to identify, so there is no difference between positive and negative (except printed cloth).

Plain plain fabric is relatively smooth and smooth with a clear and uniform color.

(2) twill: twill weave is divided into two types: one side twill and two side twill.

The single side twill lines are clearly visible on the front side and blurred on the other side.

In addition, in the aspect of grain inclination, the front texture of single yarn is inclined from the top left to the right, and the half line fabric or the whole fabric is tilted from the bottom to the right. The positive and negative patterns of the double faced twill are basically the same, but the opposite is opposite.

(3) satin weave: as the warp or weft yarn of the satin weave comes out more cloth, the cloth is smooth and glossy.

The reverse texture is like plain weave and twill, and the luster is dull.

In addition, through the surface twill and the satin front, the floating point is more, the weft twill and the weft Satin front weft floating point are more.

2. according to fabric pattern and color recognition

The designs and patterns of all fabrics are clear and clean. The shapes and lines of the patterns are fine, clear, vivid, vivid, and full. The reverse side is lighter, the lines are blurred, the patterns are not hierarchical, and the luster is also dull.

3. according to fabric texture change and pattern recognition

The weave patterns of jacquard, Teague and striped fabrics vary greatly.

All of the weave front, generally floating yarn less, stripes, lattices and raised patterns are more obvious than the reverse side, and clear lines, outline, uniform color, bright and soft and bright; the reverse pattern is fuzzy, the outline is not clear, dark color.

There are individual jacquard fabrics on the reverse side of the pattern unique and distinctive, color harmony and quiet, so in clothing when using the reverse side as a positive.

As long as the yarn structure is reasonable, the floating length is uniform and the fastness is not affected, the reverse side can also be used positively.

4. according to fabric selvedge recognition

The front edge of the general fabric is flat and crisp on the reverse side, and the edge of the reverse edge is curled up.

Woven fabrics woven by shuttleless looms are more smooth on the front side, and it is easy to find woolen bushes on the reverse side.

Some high-grade fabrics.

Such as woolen. A word or other words are woven on the edge of the fabric. The words and words in the front are clear, clear and clean; the reverse side of the word or text is fuzzy, and the font is in reverse.

5. identify the appearance effect of fabric after special finishing.

(1) fuzz fabric: the fabric has a dense Plush on the front side, and no villi on the reverse side.

The ground tissues are obviously plush, velvet, velveteen, corduroy, etc.

Some fabrics are densely villous, and even the weave patterns of tissues are difficult to see.

(2) burnt out fabric: chemically treated rotten patterns are clear, layered, and bright in color. If they are suede, they will be plump and neat, such as burnt out silk and Qiao Chou.

6. identify trademarks and seals

When the fabric is inspected before leaving the factory, the product's trademark paper or instruction manual is usually pasted. The side of the fabric is the reverse side of the fabric. Each side of each piece is covered with the date of the factory and the seal of the inspection, which is the reverse side of the fabric.

Unlike domestic products, the labels and seals of export products are on the front side.

Two. Identification of inverted hair

some

Fabrics, such as corduroy, velvet, velvet, plush and all kinds of woolen fabrics, have their suede surfaces.

There are obvious differences between these fabrics.

Usually touch with your hands.

The hair is obedient to shun Mao.

In addition, there are obvious differences in color.

Using this kind of fabric to make garments, it is obvious that the positive and negative sides of the suede are distinguishes, for example, the velvet face of corduroy is positive, and the direction of the fabric's fuzz is correctly judged, and it is cut down by wool or wool.

In addition, when trimming the fabric with Down wool, it is necessary to adopt a single trimming method so as to make the main and subordinate parts consistent, otherwise the effect of the garment will be inconsistent.

Some fabrics have a flash effect. They must also pay attention to reversing, otherwise the flash color will be inconsistent, affecting the effect.

Some asymmetric lattice fabrics should also be noted that the processing method is the same as that of reversible woolen fabrics and corduroy.

Three, defect identification

Whether there is defect or not is an important criterion for testing the quality of fabrics. The main reasons for the defects are as follows:

1. the defect of fiber quality is called defective yarn.

2. defects arising from weaving are called weaving defects.

3. defects in printing, dyeing and finishing processes.

Serious defects should be cut off. There are lighter defects in woolen and silk fabrics. A small rope should be fastened on the edge of the defect and weft, which is commonly known as "braid".

Among others

If there is no "pigtail" on artificial cotton and polyester cotton cloth, the grading of fabric should be evaluated according to the specific conditions.

Slight defects will directly affect the appearance, serious defects will damage the local strength and wear resistance, so the defects on the surface should be avoided when cutting.

If you can not avoid the defects, you can arrange the defects in the parts where the clothes are not frequently worn, so as not to affect the appearance and fastness of the clothes.

1. raw yarn defects.

Fabric defects due to yarn defects.

2. defect of primary color cloth.

3. color fabric defects.

4. printing and dyeing fabric defects.

Four, weft discrimination and correction

In the process of weaving and finishing, due to the influence of mechanical tension, all kinds of yarn dyed weft weave the weft yarn on the fabric surface.

Weft skew has lattice skew, flower skew and weft skew. It is most common in lattices, especially in all kinds of checked flannelette.

The weft skew of the yarn dyed fabric has three forms:

The 1. side is skew: the width of the cloth shows a sloping surface with one end and one end.

2. the median arch oblique: showing the width of the fabric in the middle is circular arc concave.

3. side arcuate skew: showing the side of the fabric (left or right side) in a circular arc concave.

Regardless of the type of skew, if no correction is made, the appearance and quality of the garment will be damaged if the garment is cut.

For example, the serious weft deviation on the fabric or strip clothing will form the left or right sides of the garment piece, and the strip and lattice can not be aligned, which will seriously affect the appearance quality of the garment.

If the skew is not corrected, the weft threads of the garment will not be correct, causing the garment to be twisted and uneven.

Internal quality problems of finished products.

There are two ways to correct weft insertion.

1. manual correction: spray the raw material after wet, and follow the oblique direction of two pairs.

Although this method is effective, the labor intensity is high and the speed is slow.

2. machine correction: most of the skew straightening machines are designed and manufactured by garment factories.

The straightening machine is made up of five parts: support, pmission, steam spraying device, adjusting weft drawing device and ironing roller.

It is characterized by labor saving and quick working efficiency. Some fabrics with severe weft deviation must be corrected repeatedly to achieve good results.

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