The Implementation Of The "Quality Down Garments" Group Standard Opens The Way For China's Down To Standard International.
In December 28, 2018, the canadian goose, known as the "down jacket Hermes", was officially opened in the flagship store in Sanlitun, Beijing. Although the price of the single piece sold to several thousand or even tens of thousands of dollars, it still attracted many people's crazy rob.
Canada's geese are so hot that they once again witnessed the strong purchasing power of Chinese consumers and the huge demand for high quality clothing.
In the face of the strong entry of foreign brands, can the domestic down garments really look on the back?
Just 4 days after the opening of the first physical store in the Canadian geese, in January 1st, a high quality product standard, high quality down garments, began to be implemented.
According to the insiders, the standards have reached or surpassed the highest level of international standards. China's down garments have begun to compete with international standards, and have begun to participate in the process of domestic and international competition at the high quality level.
Domestic brands urgently need to enhance competitiveness
When it comes to formulating a quality standard that clearly focuses on high-end products, Xu Jie, Secretary General of the Standardization Technical Committee of the China down industry association, who led the drafting of the group standard, summarized the 3 words of "industry needs, policy direction and situation".
"From an industrial point of view, the establishment of this standard can plug the loopholes in the standard of the down garment standard GB/T14272, control the use of" glue velvet "," dust velvet ", and maintain market order; from a policy point of view, respond to the policy call of the party and the state in the supply side reform, quality improvement and efficiency improvement, and guide the quality of domestic down garment brand to enhance the quality and enhance the image of China made.
In addition, China's down industry urgently needs to carry out international benchmarking, actively respond to the challenges of international brands and enhance the competitiveness of domestic brands.
According to the analysis of big data from Guangzhou inspection group, the items with higher reject rate in China's down garments are: cashmere content / cashmere content, anti fleece, joint performance, filling and fluffiness.
The unqualified rate of cashmere / cashmere content in 2018 increased by about 8.3% compared with 2017.
The down and down phenomenon of down garments seriously affects the customers' appearance and wear. Therefore, it is also a hot spot for consumers' quality complaints.
It is understood that at present, the quality standards of down garments in China mainly include 3 items: "down garments", "knitted down garments" and "double faced clothes", but Xu Jie believes that the quality requirements of national standards are low.
For example, the standard of "down garment" was formulated in 2011, and the quality index proposed by the technology level, raw material quality and inspection level is only a basic index.
Over the years, some domestic feather and down enterprises have made great progress in product quality. They take the initiative to conform to international standards, and the quality of some brands even surpasses that of international brands.
The demand and the voice of enterprises to make international advanced products are becoming more and more intense.
The association hopes that by setting up a higher standard, it can push the industry to improve the quality level and have stronger strength to participate in international competition.
In Xu Jie's view, the purpose of standard setting is not only to improve product quality, improve consumption experience, promote consumption upgrading, satisfy consumers' yearning and demand for high-end quality consumption and good life, but also to guide down garment enterprises to enhance quality awareness, establish a high quality and high price market order, and promote the development of high quality industries.
Where is high quality?
Compared with the existing standard of eiderdown, TB/T CFDIA004-2018 "high quality down garments" is especially aimed at "high quality down".
As an industry insider, Xu Jie is deeply abhorrent to the counterfeit behavior of down jacket in recent years.
She believes that one of the important reasons for the repeated prohibition of counterfeiting is that the current standard of down garment is low in quality requirements and there are some loopholes, such as making velvet silk as a pile, high standard and low matching, low requirement of fluffiness and no grads.
The "high quality down garment" standard is "high" because it improves the assessment standards from various aspects, such as filling materials and appearance quality.
Xu Jie, for example, in the "high quality down garments" standard, replaced the "velvet content" with "velvet content", and eliminated the dishonest behavior of adding velvet silk to velvet. The standard also stipulates that the nominal value of cashmere can not be less than 85%.
"The threshold for increasing this threshold is determined by the quality of most down garments in the market.
Because some of the down garments with a nominal "90% content of wool" have only 81% of the actual cashmere content.
Xu Jie said.
The reporter noted that the requirement of Adidas and Columbia brand for "velvet silk + feather silk" (%) is less than 8%, Moncler (league can be) the requirement of the brand to this index is less than 5%, while the "high quality down garment" standard stipulates that when the cashmere content is 85% and 90%, this index is less than 8%; when the velvet content is 95%, the requirement is less than 5%.
It can be seen that the standard is directly against the internationally famous brands, which reduces the risk of drilling down from the source.
At the same time, the standard also increased the requirement of "cashmere content greater than 95%".
"With the upgrading of consumption in recent years, people put forward higher requirements for product quality, which has become the driving force for improving quality and efficiency of each industry.
In addition, China has the advantages of talents, equipment, technology and high-quality raw materials, laying the foundation for producing more high-quality down products.
This provision also provides quality evaluation basis for high quality down products and products, so as to facilitate the marketing and publicity of high quality products.
Xu Jie explained.
Xu Jie introduced that the standard also raised the requirement of "fluffiness" and classified the grade.
Fluffiness is an important index of eiderdown quality. The higher the bulkiness, the better the comfort and warmth of the down. The higher the quality, the more expensive the price.
The addition of flying silk, feather silk, dust, impurities and other substances will cause the decrease of fluffiness.
Therefore, fluffiness is the barometer and touchstone of the down quality.
The standard refers to the international common fluffy test method, which facilitates international comparison of quality and is conducive to enhancing the international competitiveness of China's down industry.
The standard also reduced the allowable deviation value of cashmere content.
"Setting up the allowable deviation value of cashmere content" is to avoid the risk of substandard due to the loss in the filling process and the deviation of laboratory test results.
However, with the improvement of technology and the improvement of China's overall testing level, this index has become a tool for many enterprises to steal quality and scratch ball, and it has virtually fueled the unhealthy trend of shoddy.
Xu Jie said.
In addition, the standards also raise the requirements of oxygen consumption and turbidity, effectively improve the smell problem and enhance safety. The standard also puts forward high requirements for health and safety indicators, appearance quality and other physical and chemical properties, and guides enterprises to improve their quality.
The standard stipulates that the label of "high quality down garment" product should clearly indicate the "velvet content" and "fluffiness" index, so as to provide consumers with the basis for buying genuine goods.
"I believe that the" high quality down garments "standard can play a greater role in improving the quality of the industry.
Xu Jie said.
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