Basic Knowledge Of Factory Made Garment And Plate Making

In the process of garment pattern design, due to the different styles of clothing, the difference of fabric structure and thickness, the limitation of garment processing and machine type, the quality and organizational structure of clothing will affect the actual production, so the production of clothing pattern has different requirements.

Garment pattern design for ready-made garments

The garment design effect diagram is pformed into a planar structure map into a sample (production pattern) for garment production, that is, the design effect diagram - determining the shape and data structure decomposition plan - determining the value of the main part drawing specification - the plane structure map net sample - the gross sample.

In such a pattern design process, the pattern designer must consider how to set up a better production pattern so that the garment can improve the quality, reduce the cost and increase the efficiency, so it is different from the ordinary pattern making (used for personal and custom-made clothes).

1. The samples should be released according to the sewing process designed, and all the seams should be released. Except for all the technical parameters and markings on the net sample, the sewing methods and requirements should be specified. The parts and methods of ironing should be specified; the production pattern required for discharging, determining the discharging way and the accurate consumption of materials must have the following check: (men's shirts for example).

Check the set size.

Each part of the pattern should be measured according to the size of the customer or the given size.

(2) rechecking the sutures.

The connection of each part of a garment, the production pattern of men's shirt, needs to check whether the arc of the armhole and the arc of the neckline are round if the pattern is made; check whether the foot swing and cuff arc is round or not; check whether the arc length of the sleeve rock is equal to the arc length of the armhole; check whether the arc length of the neckline is equal to the length of the collar line; check whether the cuff arc of the sleeve body (except the pleat) and the sleeve level width are equal; and check whether the length of the side seam is equal before and after checking.

(3) rechecking the counterpoint marks.

Men's shirts have front buttons, folding marks and knob marks; the cuff arc of sleeve sleeves and sleeves of the sleeves are counterpoint marks; the buttons on the collar and the countersigns with the front midline; the plaid folding marks of the clear stickers, and the cuff marks on the sleeve of the sleeves.

Fourth, check the lines.

Check the direction of the thread when the cloth is cut.

Check the seam parts.

The men's shirt production pattern is 1CM seam except for the patch and the sticker.

Check the total sample size.

There are 11 patterns (including collar and collar) for men's shirts.

Check whether the information is complete.

It includes the name of the style, the number of clipping, the number of codes, the name of the cutting film, etc.

2, the paper has been rechecked after the tailoring made into garments, used to check whether the design has reached the design intent. This pattern is called "head board". It modifies, adjusts or even redesigns the unrecognized patterns, and then checks them into "double plates" to make ready-made garments. Finally, it is sure that clothing samples are produced.

In the process of garment pattern design, due to the different styles of clothing, the difference of fabric structure and thickness, the limitation of garment processing and machine type, the quality and organizational structure of clothing will affect the actual production, so the production of clothing pattern has different requirements.

(1) according to the difference of cloth thickness, three kinds of seam opening amount can be divided into thin, medium and thick. The amount of seam pattern of thin fabric is generally 0, 8cm, medium is 1cm, and the thickness is 1, 5cm.

(2) the joints with narrow radii should be narrow, such as armhole and neckline, etc. because the cracks are too common to crease wrinkle. However, the seam design of production patterns is as uniform as possible. This will help improve production efficiency and improve product quality standards, so the seam of shirt collar and neckline should be 1cm. After sewing, the neckline should be 0 and 5cm, which can make the neckline arc uniform and avoid the lack of seam due to cloth dispersion.

Add the additional amount of place to be wider, such as the slit of the back of the trousers, the seam of the rear midline is 2, 5cm, the front and back side seam can add 1, 5cm, etc., which can improve the sales volume of the product and meet the psychological requirements of the customers.

3. Different suture methods have different requirements for seam filling.

For example, flat seams are the most commonly used and the most convenient way of sewing. The joint seams are usually 0, 8~1, and 2cm. For some 1cm which are easy to disperse, loose cloth is stitched together and stitched together after sewing, commonly used 1 and 2cm after sewing.

There are two kinds of stitching methods for the hem of garment (skirt, pendulum, cuff, trousers, etc.): the first is the hem stitch after the lock, and the two is the direct hem stitch.

Generally, it is 3 to 4cm, which is conducive to the sag and stability of trousers and skirts. If it is generally 0, 5 to 1cm with a curved lower pendulum and cuffs, and the direct fold seams usually need to add 0, 8 to 1cm on the basis of the amount of folding. For larger edges of round pendulum shirts, trumpet skirts, round skirts, etc., the edges can be made as narrow as possible, and the seams can be rolled up to make the seams for the seams. The width is 0, 3~0, and 5cm, so the stitched parts are 0, 0 to 1cm. If it is very thin and the structure is stronger, it can be considered that the direct locking beads should be used as the edge, and it can also be used as decoration. The addition and opening of the side seam is the width of the desired hem. If it is a flat pendulum, the summer coat is generally 2~2, 5cm, and the winter coat is 2, 5~3, 5cm, trousers and suit skirt.

The usual stitching method for the side seam, inner seam and back seam of the jeans is the stitching method. The advantage of the stitching method is that it has strong durability. The additional seam needs to pay attention to the width of the front package or the width of the back package, and the width of the rear part of the machine. The general seam is 1 and 2cm, but the joints used in the actual production are different. The Hongkong sun rising group Huizhou big entry Co., Ltd. has been producing jeans for a long time. The practice has got a better method: the seam of the package is 0, 6cm, and the other is 1 and 6cm.

Because the required size is calculated at the edge of the seam, and the finished product will not affect the accuracy and uniformity of the size.

Because the sewing process of different structures will affect the quality and discharge of garment production, thus affecting the cost of garment production, it is very important to determine the pattern of garment production.

The structure sewing technology of C and double skin opener can easily control the quality of products, but the structure of C will result in too thick clothing. If the selection of A and B two kinds of structural sewing processes can save cloth, the structure of B will produce uneven thickness of the front door. If we choose the D structure, the sewing process can reduce the time of cutting and sewing process and improve efficiency. But this method can only be used for the cloth to be divided into the bottom and the surface. Generally speaking, &nbspA structure is the most commonly used structure in the general garment production, which can not only be better in cloth quality, but also can not be restricted by cloth type. For example, the front door openings (men's shirt front openings), which have the same appearance effect, have four structural methods, which can be used to determine different garment production patterns according to different needs: if A is chosen, a single door opener can be made.

The structure of the openings on the openings can be divided into the addition of the plaid and the original body plus the plaid. The original structure with the opening of the plaid is a waste of cloth, but the sewing process is simpler and more convenient. Additionally, the structure of the pleat is more than one process in the sewing process, but the layout is suitable for the layout. The pattern maker needs to balance the choice in drawing, and determines the method suitable for the conditions of the company.

For some similar buttons or overcoat styles, it is also possible to cut the barn on the side of the door, so as to save the cloth.

The purpose of paper pattern engineering is to modify some pattern structures so as to beautify the human body, improve the quality, reduce the time of workers' holding time, facilitate discharging and save materials.

Some structures will increase the consumption of materials during production, for example, the sword shaped sleeves of men's shirts. When making patterns, they can see the invisible layer in the big sleeves, so that they can avoid exposing the next layer, improve the quality of products, and save materials and other benefits. Some structures appear unsightly after wearing the finished products. They need to modify the pattern appropriately. For example, the pattern of inner and outer pleated skirts, when making their production patterns, the upper part of the pleat will be empty, which can reduce the thickness to the effect of beautifying the human body and save the cloth.

Some structures will increase the time and quality of workers in production, and modify these production patterns.

So that it can reduce the above problems.

For example, for women with larger waist circumference and hip circumference, when making trousers structure (especially jeans), according to the structural principle, the front side side seam curvature will be more curved, and the latter side seam arc is straight, which will result in the time to increase sewing time in the sewing process, add the appropriate dimension to the front and side waist points of the pattern, and reduce the corresponding dimension at the side waist point of the rear side, so that the seam radii of the two sides are closer, so that the production is more convenient, thereby reducing the time of sewing the hand.