How To Correctly Match Stitches And Sutures According To Sewing Materials

The process of stitching up a piece of clothing or embroidering a decorative pattern on the surface of a garment is what we call sewing. For the effect of sewing, if we want to achieve perfection, besides requiring the sewing machine itself to perform well and the operator skilled, we must also ensure that the three specifications of the needle, suture and sewing material match to form the correct stitch.

 
1, sewing needle
 
Sewing needles, also known as sewing needles and machine needles, are important sewing machines for sewing machines. There are hundreds of varieties of machine needles made in China. In order to achieve the ideal match between the needle and the sewing material and sewing thread, we must select the suitable needle. The type of machine needles is determined by the specifications of sewing machines and the properties and materials of sewing fabrics. The working nature of the machine determines the selection of the needle. Different types of machines should be equipped with different types of specifications. No matter which type of machine, the sewing process should be based on the properties and thickness of the sewing material to select the specifications of the needle, that is, the needle number. Generally speaking, the needles used for textile and knitwear are all conical in shape. When sewing leather and similar sewing materials, special shape needles, such as spear tips, diamond tips and reverse twist tips, are adopted to increase the strength of machine needles and achieve good sewing effect.
 

The selection of needle is as follows:
 
(1) when considering the strength of the needle itself, use the smaller needle as far as possible.
(2) the puncture resistance of the thin material is small. In order to prevent the stitch from appearing the needle hole and affect the appearance of the sewing material, a relatively fine machine needle can be selected.
(3) the puncture resistance of heavy materials is large. To prevent broken needles, a thicker machine needle should be selected.
(4) stitches should be smooth, without sharp needles and rusty spots, and the pinpoint is blunt, so as to prevent damage to the fibers.

2, suture

After selecting the specifications of the needle, choose the suture again. The stitches include blunt cotton, polyester cotton, blended yarn, polyester and rayon. They are generally twisted by two strands, three strands, four strands and six strands of single yarn. The direction of twisting can be divided into two types: S twist and Z twist. The Z sewing thread is commonly used for the sewing machine, and the s twister with good quality can also be applied to other sewing machines. Cotton sewing thread has good sewing performance, but it shrinks more than synthetic fiber when washing. Its strength, chemical resistance and wear resistance are worse than synthetic fiber. High quality mercerized cotton yarn is expensive, so cotton sewing thread is rarely used now. The staple fiber polyester sewing thread has low cost, good stitching stability, durability and sew ability, so it is suitable for all conventional garment sewing. The sewing thread used for the sewing machine is generally cotton thread. But because of the high cost of cotton fiber, polyester cotton thread is generally used instead. When selecting the thickness of the suture, the use of the sewing thread should be considered first.
 
1. the lock type stitch sewing machine has a limited volume of spindle core. The sewing thread can be used to accommodate longer sewing threads, saving shuttle time and achieving high work efficiency. 　
　
2. the stitch thread is small in size and feels good in chain sewing. 　　
 
3. the stitching thread has little space to sewn, and causes less fabric deformation and crease. 　
　
4. small sewing needles can be used for sewing threads to avoid needle holes. 　　
 
5. the slit sewing thread can also reduce the outstanding seam marks and cause them to fall into the inner surface of the fabric and reduce the effect of wear.
 
In the sewing process, we must ensure that the three specifications of stitches, sutures and seams match to form the correct stitches.
 
1. in the sewing process, we should also consider the twist of suture. The purpose of suture twisting is to increase strength and elasticity. But if the twist is too large, the stitch will affect the normal formation of the wire ring. Generally, 1 meters long suture should be taken to grasp the ends of the line, so that it will close. The number of natural torsion circles of the two strands should not be greater than 6, otherwise the needle jumping will easily occur. 　　
 
2. when sewing, it is necessary to use thin needles if sewing materials are thin and soft. At the same time, the pick-up rate of machine needles should be increased, because the friction between stitches and sewing materials is small. If the distance between the stitches is not changed, the width of the face line will be reduced. If the fabric is rough, the opposite is true. This requires adjusting the relative position between the hook wire and the machine needle. In the process of making clothes, choosing stitching stitches is a very simple problem. Actually, it is not the same. Not only to meet the technical requirements, but also to take into consideration the aesthetic requirements. In order to achieve a more perfect effect, we should consider the color matching of stitches and the stitches and the fineness of the stitches.