New Pragmatism Behind Fashion T

After the recession, sales and profits of most luxury brands returned to growth.

Unlike the early twenty-first Century, when coping with the post recession era, the management strategy of luxury brands had to be adjusted, especially the role of designers in the brand.

Brand star designers are concerned, especially when the brand is promoted by the Internet, such as online sales, blogs, micro-blog and Facebook, indicating that people still buy designer accounts, but these are not enough.

Today's main character is no longer Karl Lagerfeld, the designer who took over Chanel in 1983.

It is no longer John Galliano. He began to subvert Dior in 1996.

It's Burberry's Christopher Bailey. Last year, he got the title of "Chief Creative Officer (chief creative director)", taking into account buyer, brand director, IT, advertising planning and e-commerce. Besides, his main thing every day is still the design director.

Burberry announced that its sales rose by 6.6% to $1 billion 800 million compared with the fall of 6 million in the previous fiscal year.

The chief executive, Angela Ahrendts, points out that more importantly, the sale of accessories only increased by 36% in overseas markets.

Is the recent surge in sales related to a two - year designer's curtain call in the fashion week?

Luxury brands are no longer on the high side, let designers serve as goodwill ambassadors around the world to focus on brand overseas construction.

The obvious example is that Frida Giannini also works for Gucci and Valentino, at least indicating that the brand needs an experienced designer team rather than a student who has just graduated from Saint Martin or other design schools.

Herm s announced that after 7 years, Jean Paul Gaultier, the designer of the brand name dress, left the French designer who decided to manage his brand well. Of course, he still owns shares of Herm Herm s45%.

The current Lacoste designer, Christophe Lemaire, will take his place, although he has designed a sport casual wear and rarely involves the design of a senior woman's dress.

After Alexander McQueen committed suicide, its parent company Gucci group announced that its partner Sarah Burton, who started work in 1996, took over his position. Although many people on the Internet have recommended another young and personalized Gareth Pugh, Gucci has obviously had its own ideas.

Emanuel Ungaro chose British designer Giles Deacon for stability.

Lindsay Lohan, a young Hollywood actress, left Ungaro, compared with Giles Deacon, the 40 year old designer who has a good taste in high fashion. He owns his own brand and can also revive the classic inheritance of Emanuel Ungaro.

Recently, Marc Jacobs opened a new store in Bond Street, London, not only selling clothes, but also travel boxes, jewelry, scarves, picnic, luxury gift sets and even playing cards of LV.

For the French brand, the British Advertising Standards Agency recently believes that its wide spectrum is suspected of plagiarizing the works of Holland masters.

Of course, these LV bags were mechanically produced in factories, rather than sewing in needles in the original paintings, so they were "misleading".

　　

These are some of the recent developments in luxury brands: designers become money making machines, strong leadership teams, the importance and originality of inspiration.

Today, however, creativity is born in an open office rather than an iron castle.