Design Of Outer Ear Shoes -- Three Eyes Men'S Shoes Design

The outer ear type three eye shoe is a typical outer ear shoe. It is a popular product. It is simple, generous, and has wide audience. It can be said that men, women, old and young are suitable.

Mastering the design of typical outer ear shoes will help the variant design of shoes.

As shown in figure 1-4-6, the position of the shoe ears is relatively backward, so that the front band becomes slender.

 

1. finished product graph analysis

(1) last selection of male prime head last.

The shape of the shoe last is square, so the round shoes are designed to match the ears.

(2) the structure belongs to the outer ear structure of the ear shoe.

There is a broken tongue position on the back middle line, and the handle is taken by positioning.

There are 3 eyes on the ear of the shoe. The length of the ear is between E and lOmm after lOmm and V.

(3) the front point of the shoe ears of the parts is special, and the difference between the inside and outside arms should be made.

First determine the location of the 01 place, then make the 02 points in the outer arms 01 above 3mm, before 2mm.

(4) after setting up, help and press the front gang. The design starts with the later Gang, and focuses on the modeling of the shoe ears.

(5) special requirements for the front ear point of shoes have a locking line from 10 to 12mm.

When marking the shoe ears, you should use the marking board to determine the O1 and O2 points and the location of the lock line on the front panel.

The broken tongue position of the outer ear shoe should be behind the first eye position, and the purpose is to hide the broken line with shoes.

(1) the design of the rear group is first set up to help the contour line.

Before E point, lOmm is the parallel line of EP. After V point, lOmm is the parallel line of VO, and the length of shoe ears is between two parallel lines.

Find P 'point, connect QP' dot line and extend.

The length of the bottom of the backing is taken at 3/4FP point near the Fi point.

The outline of the outer ear and the back of the shoe is designed between the above control lines, as shown in figure 1-4-7.

 

Note: Although there is a control line, this can only control the location of the shoe ears, and can not determine the shape of the shoe ears.

Even with the same auxiliary line, the shape of the shoe ears will change.

As shown in figure 1-4-8

 

These three kinds of shoes have different ear shapes, square shoes and ears are steady, round shoes and ears are full and thin ears are handsome, but their control lines are the same as figure 1-4-7.

Therefore, the choice of the shape of the shoe ears depends on the design concept, which is related to the shape of the last shoe. This shoe chooses the shape of the square shoe ear, which is consistent with the head shape of the shoe last.

After the design is completed, the location of the Ol point can only be determined. The location of the 02 points can be determined by raising the requirements of 3mm and forward 2mm.

Then use the lines similar to the outer arms to connect the 02 points up and down.

That is to say, the shape of shoes and ears from inside and outside is similar in appearance, and only by comparison can we see the difference.

Locate the location of the lock line on the 10 to 12mm position on the front tip of the inside and outside, respectively, as shown in figure 1-4-9.

 

Note: the shoe eye position of the outer ear shoes is quite different from that of the inner ear shoes. Although the shoe eye position is still 13mm from the shoe's helix profile, the location of the eye line is similar to that of the shoe ears. The arrangement of the shoe eye position should consider the location of the lock line, which is equal to occupying an eye position.

The placement of eyes should start from the last eye position and arrange evenly over the location of the lock.

The upper end of the false line is 12mm from the eye line, and the arc is modeled by the eye bit line.

The shape of the fake line is very important, just like the "eyebrow" when making up. When the shoe ears are exaggerated, it is necessary to let the false thread play the role of convergence.

(2) the position of the front gang of the front Gang should be positioned through the amount of stubble.

Along the front wheel contour of the outer Huai, the 8mm stubble line is made, and the stubble line is intersected with the shoe ears to return to 15 to 20mm fixed 0'point.

The shoe ears are shorter and take 15mm.

Go through the 0'point to make the vertical line of VE, and turn it to V "point", which is the location of the dark door.

In order to hide the break line, the position of the broken tongue should be taken from 5 to 7mm after the V point, and the V1 point should be determined.

Then make the vertical line of VE, draw an arc, connect the broken tongue line.

Control the break line after the first eye position.

The length of the tongue is 6 to 7mm longer than that of the shoe. The position of the shoe ear should be controlled by the position of the false line when the shape of the shoe ear is not obvious.

The tongue width is controlled by the lOmm position below the last eye position.

First connect the control line, then design the contour line.

The characteristics of the outer ear type shoe tongue are narrow and front width. The inner ear type shoe tongue is wide and narrow front. There are differences between them. See figure 1-4-10.

 

(3) take the location and take the corner to take the center at O', and take the radius of O'V1 to make a big arc.

Connect VO, line and V'O, line, and VO'V', that is, equal quantity instead of corner.

The angle is intersected with the large circular arc, and a radian is obtained. The angle corresponding to the radian is the size of the corner.

When the arc length is cut to the large arc after the Vl point, the V2 point is determined, and the location of the arcing angle is V1 O'V2.

Connect J points and V2 points into a straight line, connect Ao points, and Ao V2 line, that is, the front midline.

Note that the V2 point below the back midline can not be taken on the VE line.

The vertical line of the front midline of the front line should be passed through the V2 point, and the shape of the trimming door will be circular and similar to that of the shoe tongue. See figure 1-4-11.

 

Mastering three design methods of outer ear shoes, the general outer ear shoes can also be designed.

The method of making the outer ear shoe template is the same as the inner ear type shoes.

(1) preparation of a scratch board

As shown in figure 1-4-12

 

The spacing between stubble is relatively small.

Make the difference between the inside and outside, and the front cusp, lock line, shoe eye position and so on.

(2) preparation of basic templates

The basic template includes four kinds of five models, namely, front, back, tongue, and insurance skin, which are made according to the drawing board. See figure 1-4-l3.

 

Note that the amount of stubble must be on the front side of the template, otherwise the template is incomplete and mark the stubble mark.

When marking the rules of the front cusps, place the front template on a drawing board with a little bit of double-sided adhesive. Note that the line should be aligned to the V1O'line (not V20'), and over the scribing board. Mark the 01 points with the outer lock points, and mark the 02 points with the lock points.

After removing the front template, make the difference between the inside and outside of the front point.

The stubble mark below the front cusp is normal.

(3) preparation of material for opening.

As shown in Fig. 1-4-14, there is no hem for the front pattern, and the opening pattern is the same as the basic template.

Then add the hem to the template and add the amount of pressure to the shoe tongue template.

The pattern of the insurance cover remains unchanged.

(4) making a shoe template.

The outer ear type three eye shoes of men's shoes adopt two segment structure, as shown in figure 1-4-15.

Generally speaking, when designing the ordinary shoes, the two stage structure is adopted, and the three stage structure is adopted when designing the high-grade shoes.

 

If the former team uses Bree, the tongue and the front can continue to open. If you use artificial leather, you need to make the front and the tongue.

Drop 2mm at the front end of the front end, add 1mm to the tongue, and connect two points as the center line of the shoe back.

The front end of the front support has already had the amount of stubble, it only needs to add the stagger amount of 1mm, and the bottom port receives 6 to 7mm.

The difference between inside and outside.

The rear group is designed according to the maximum area after the merger.

The amount of 5mm hem is added to the shoe and shoe ears, and the new arc is drawn into the rear arc by 2mm, 3mm and 5mm respectively, and the bottom mouth receives 6 to 7mm.

The amount of 8mm stubble should be added to the front end.

In the modern shoemaking technology, the book says that there is a cut in the back of the shoe when it is engaged, so that it can easily wrap up the front gang.

Where is this cut open?

To make a 2mm width fork at the point below the locking point and toward the O'point, the fork end point should exceed 0' point 3mm (using the marking board to find the location of 0'point).