The "Soul" Of Hui'S Dress Is Just Like Summer Flowers
On the neon stage, the Hui costumes, which are gorgeous, restrained and elegant, or fashionable and elegant, bloom like summer flowers under the decoration of tassels, embroidery and sequins.
This is what we see all the time Hui Costume The scene in the show. Surprisingly, after each performance, most of these beautiful clothes and accessories "quietly retired" and went back to the exhibition hall or warehouse, where they accumulated dust and waited for the buyer in a lonely way.
A ? The embarrassment of cheering and not attracting seats
On June 18, Wang Xuewu, chairman of the board of directors of Ningxia Hongqi Garment Group Co., Ltd., looked at several sets of Hui costumes that had won performance awards in the exhibition hall and said, "since we started to design Hui costumes, there have been more than 1000 sets of Hui costumes, and only received a small number of orders."
Hongqi Garment Group is the first enterprise in Ningxia to develop and produce Hui costumes. It is also the largest fixed-point manufacturer of ethnic products in Ningxia. In Wang Xuewu's memory, the enterprise seems to have experienced a process from "ambitious" to "according to one's ability".
In 2002, Hongqi Clothing Group signed a cooperation agreement with the clothing College of Shaanxi Textile University (later renamed as Shaanxi University of science and Technology), and in one year, the school designed 50 sets of 8 categories of Hui clothing. In 2004, these costumes, together with 60 sets of Hui costumes designed by Hongqi clothing group, took part in several Hui clothing publicity campaigns, which had strong repercussions in Wuzhong and Guyuan, but there was no order“ After two years of cooperation with the college, we can't afford any more money, and the cooperation naturally ends. "
In 2005, Yinchuan Muslim food and Muslim products industry development leading group organized six enterprises to hold a Hui clothing show, "we took 135 sets, accounting for more than 60%. The response was good, but there was still no order."
"In 2006, we took out another 100 sets of design clothes to participate in the show. This time, we received a small number of orders, all below 300000 yuan. Only in the 50th Daqing of Ningxia in 2008, did we receive an order of more than one million yuan for performance clothes. " Now, the focus of enterprise work has to shift to uniform production.
Chen Huafang is the manager and fashion designer of Yinchuan Fanghua fashion show Costume Design Co., Ltd. However, Chen Huafang knew in his heart that the biggest embarrassment in the development of Hui's clothing and clothing in recent years is to win popularity but not to win.
B ? It's hard to get into the ordinary Hui family
Ma Xiaofeng, a Hui girl, is a student of Ningxia Islamic college. Her green cap and black robe are her usual dress. Why don't she dress up more beautiful? She said that her family's economic conditions are not well-off. In her hometown Guyuan, many Hui women are reluctant to buy a headscarf and most of them wear the most common Hui hat.
"An ordinary Hui hat costs 1.5 yuan, the embroidered one gets 10 yuan, and the best one gets 30 yuan." Wang Xuewu said, "in Ningxia, most of the people who really wear Hui costumes are people from low-income and Hui gathering areas, but the things we design are always working on embroidery and hollowing out, and the common people don't buy them at all."
The contradiction between design concept and commercial value is also the biggest headache for Chen Huafang. "Ningxia is the only Hui Autonomous Region in China, with a population of more than 2 million. It is reasonable to say that the market should not be a problem for such a huge customer base. However, due to the influence of cultural level, understanding and other factors, the market response is very dull. I think there are two main reasons: first, demand and artistic concept are two different things; Second, most of the customers' ideas are traditional and backward. " Chen Huafang sighed with regret.
Ningxia Academy of Social Sciences Clothes & Accessories Tao Hong, a research expert, pointed out that the process of the development and change of Hui costumes is a process of continuous integration of Arab and Persian culture and Chinese culture, as well as a process of ritual and religiousness in daily life.
Hong Meixiang, chairman of Yinchuan Municipal Committee of the Chinese people's Political Consultative Conference, believes that the research and development of Hui people's clothing in our district has relatively large advantages in China, and from the perspective of the international market, the market space of more than one billion Muslim products in the world is particularly considerable. At present, her wish is to make the research and development of Hui costumes more and more perfect and enter the common Hui people's homes.
C ? Joint efforts in R & D and vigorous promotion will lead to a way out {page_ break}
"The Hui nationality clothing is the most unitary in the national clothing, which embodies the characteristics of hat and cap. It's very difficult to find the characteristics of Hui nationality. We have been working for so many years, but we haven't found the characteristics of Hui nationality. It's hard to find the patterns and the needs of life. That is to say, we haven't really grasped the soul of Hui costumes. In recent years, Ningxia has held many Hui clothing competitions, but all of them are still at the level of research and development, and there is not a really bright dress for people Wang Xuewu said, "the brand of Hui nationality is only played in Ningxia, and the flag is only carried by Ningxia.". Maybe we can gather talents from all aspects of Hui nationality research, spend limited money on cutting edge, and ask powerful domestic clothing masters to help us find the soul of Hui clothing. "
In view of the embarrassing situation of the Hui nationality's clothing at present, there must be a promotion stage to make it industrialized. If we want to promote it, there are no more than 100000 people wearing clothes, so there is no promotion significance. Let the enterprise spend the financial resources to do, and dare not to do it when it is bigger. It is suggested that the government take out 500000 hats for promotion and distribute them to the Hui people for free. Wang Xuewu said that this is his experience over the years, "only when the promotion is accepted can the Hui people pay for it."
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