The Eight Major Commentary On Chinese Brand Customization
For the two modes that are currently developed in China, namely studio mode and brand mode, we have several fashion design professionals, and further analyze and discuss the status quo and future of one of the brand customization models.
Dialogue guests
Zhang
: Chairman and art director of NE TIGER
Fu Kui: Design Director of Beijing white collar Fashion Co. Ltd.
Xia Xia: Chief Executive Officer of Yiwen enterprise group
Paul Liu: manager of Beijing Adam Underwear Co., Ltd.
Zhu Jianjun: BE PRIVE advanced customized brand designer
Chinese brand
Customize
Question 1
When did the custom business of brand start? What is the current development status?
Zhang Zhifeng: I started my business in 1982, and founded NE TIGER brand in 1992. I have been in business for 28 years.
Over the years, I was the first person in China to put forward the idea of creating a luxury brand and sort out its concept, and it was also the first person to put it into practice.
At the same time, I share these experiences with my colleagues without reservation.
Chinese often say, "ten years of grinding a sword."
In the past ten years, together with the Republic, we have experienced the development process from self awakening to self-reliance, from independence to self strengthening.
With the peaceful rise of the country, we have confidently ushered in the revival and burgeoning of China's luxury civilization, reviving the luxury civilization of ancient China, and emerging as China's luxury brand.
Fu Kui: the white-collar custom is a value-added service with the emergence of the white collar brand. It has been 16 years old.
The original intention is to meet the needs of certain groups of people who are unable to wear white collar clothing products due to size and other problems.
So far, the development has been very good, in the customer has also cultivated a good reputation and popularity.
In white-collar sales, sales accounted for about 10% to 15%.
Xia Xia: 2004,
EVe
The group introduced the Kevin Kelly brand to the market as a senior garment representative for men's clothing at that time.
At the beginning of the first two years, there was little market demand, and a small number of customized customers were given the experience of going abroad and staying overseas, enjoying the customized service.
They know more about ordering and have needs, so they become our long-term customers.
From 2007 to 2008, men's clothing demand began to increase, and domestic consumers paid more and more attention to the personalization and specialization of clothing.
Kevin Kelly brand customized service team has two or thirty people. It is composed of designers, quantity teachers and housekeepers.
The designer comes from Milan and Beijing, and the accessories are from Italy, because the customers are from China, so they are jointly completed by Chinese and foreign design and production teams.
Another special place is the housekeeping team. In the Kevin Kelly shop, there are senior housekeepers stationed to serve the customers.
Zhu Jianjun: BE PRIVE advanced customization brand was founded in 2008.
The design team has gathered famous designers from many fashion centers from France, Italy, Germany, Brazil, Spain, mainland China and Hongkong, China, making the BE PRIV brand custom charisma not only come from the Chinese culture, but also has fresh elements from different cultures all over the world.
Paul Liu: in April 2009, Adam's booking studio was unveiled in Beijing as the first underwear custom studio in China.
By relying on the technical advantages of brand, love customized Studio provides more intimate service for women who pursue quality life.
"According to demand," through 3 years of research into the market, according to the latitude of women's breasts, tailored underwear can not only shape, orthopedics, but also improve the defects of women's body.
In addition, the love custom studio is specially designed for breast deficiency women to make exclusive (excision) orders to help mastectomy women regain their confidence and beauty.
Question 2
What kind of consumer groups do we accept?
Zhang Zhifeng: only when we truly understand and understand the luxury class in China can we determine the market position of our brand.
In China, the consumption class of luxury goods is by no means a single class.
The consumer brands of NE TIGER brand are basically overlapped with international luxury brand users. One is to honor luxury goods, just like defending loyal VIP, and the other is elite women. They are independent and advocate excellent taste.
NE TIGER now covers a range of products including fur, high order clothing, Chinese style wedding dress, evening dress, wedding dress, premium accessories and so on.
Among them, the advanced customized clothing technology is complex, the selected materials are meticulous and meticulous, and customized according to the specific size of the guests.
Generally, the price of Chinese clothing will be determined according to the materials selected by guests and the amount of special technology, ranging from tens of thousands to tens of thousands of yuan.
Zhu Jianjun: our advanced ordering crowd is divided into two parts: one is the tuxedo class. The main buyers are stars and celebrities. They need to attend ceremonial occasions frequently. This part of the products are more artistic in design. The other part is clothes that can be worn in daily life, for high-end customers, generally it can not be too exaggerated, but it also needs special design to highlight their identity, so we should spend more time on the plate and material.
Xia Xia: now the important component of Kevin Kelly customer is entrepreneurs, including famous entrepreneurs at home and abroad, such as Liu Chuanzhi, Ma Yun, Ma Yuhua, Huang Nubo...
They have money but no time, and there are many occasions to attend.
Volume customized services, personalized and valuable things, Kevin Kelly launched senior housekeeper's services, including dress matching advice and so on.
The custom-made price is different from that of garment accessories, from tens to tens of thousands.
Some custom-made clothing has been separated from the wearing level and has reached the level of art collection.
Question 3{page_break}
Can the customization be oriented to the high-end and custom-made for ordinary customers?
Fu Kui: the custom-made business of white-collar workers is divided into two parts, common order and advanced customization.
Custom-made customers are ordinary customers who buy products in white-collar shops. The main reason for their customization is that they can not be dressed in white collar clothing products because of their size and so on.
The advanced custom customers are mainly white collar high-end brand series "golden collar" customers. They are some business leaders, government officials, entertainers and so on. They want to design individually, individually, individually and individually, and pay great attention to the sophistication and special features of the garment.
Paul Liu: the underwear custom business that we admire has included exclusive ordering, advanced customization and special demand customization.
In addition to Gong Li, Cai Ming and other entertainers have become high-end fashion custom customers, exclusive orders no longer point to the elite class, it shows a strong interest in serving the general public, popular prices plus personalized customization, cost-effective competitive advantage is very obvious, but also greatly increased the love brand and wider range of consumer interaction possibilities.
Question 4
What are the basic processes of advanced customization?
Zhu Jianjun: from the style, color, fabric, size to design and manufacture, the advanced ordering process is absolutely cumbersome. The birth of a high-grade ordering takes several months, and it is not surprising that dozens of people are employed.
It can be said that the advanced customization is not just a garment, but also a service to enable guests to enjoy the whole process of clothing production.
Generally speaking, advanced ordering is divided into the following processes:
Appointment negotiation.
The customer will contact the senior order manager or designer himself to express his intention to purchase.
Then the brand will assign the designated designer to understand the customers' preferences and the occasions to wear.
If it is not for acquaintance, senior orders will always receive full deposit.
Look at the show.
The exhibition hall is equipped with advanced garments, advanced orders, accessories, etc., which are generally available for sale. It can be viewed by customers and further communicated with customers in order to understand and record the styles that customers like.
Design.
According to customer requirements, designers design several styles, make samples or design drawings, give guests a general concept.
After the selected style, make appropriate design modifications according to the requirements of the guests.
Measure yourself.
The designer will carefully measure the guests from head to toe, and there are dozens of different sizes.
After that, he will be assigned to the tailor who is responsible for it. He will first custom-made a mannequin as the basis for making clothes, and later he will modify it according to the change of the guest's figure.
Cut.
According to the designer's draft, the embryonic form is used to make basic prototypes, directly put on the mannequin, around the needle, to draw the thread, and to modify according to the special shape of the guest.
First fitting.
After the cloth is cut, there will be a dark mark on the joint. The zippers, hem and even lining will be stitched temporarily.
The designer will personally supervise the test and guide the tailor to make adjustments.
Make.
All modifications to the first fitting will be formally finalized on the material and corrected on the human body model.
At this stage, the bead, embroidery and decoration parts are finished, then the official suture, upper collar, zipper and so on.
Try again.
This fitting is mainly about the perfection of the service, the perfect pendant, and the last refinement.
Complex designs require repeated fitting.
Delivery.
Before delivery, clothes need to be carefully packed.
The style is formally recorded in the custom-made sales and is embroidered with embroidered labels on the clothes.
Receiving.
The store manager will call the guest in person, and the clothes will be modified free of charge if they are in need of clothing.
Question 5
What is the core concept of your brand?
Zhang Zhifeng: our idea is to merge the past and the present, and connect the Chinese and Western cultures.
NE. TIGER Chinese dress, with "ritual" as the soul, with "Brocade" as the material, "embroidery" as the work, and "national color" as the body, contains five characteristics: iconic, classical, national, compatibility and modernity.
In today's globalization, cultural integration has reached unprecedented heights.
This idea is just in time.
Fu Kui: our philosophy is to guide and satisfy customers' needs.
Paul Liu: custom made underwear is customized health.
For custom customization, exclusive ordering is customized health, and advanced customization is personalized and targeted.
Question 6
What are the advantages of brand customization?
Zhu Jianjun: with the development of globalization, the Chinese wind has become an indispensable fashion trend in the world fashion industry. More and more Chinese elements are appearing on the world stage.
Although expensive fabrics, pearls, and fur fabrics from all over the world will be used locally, our design will pay great attention to the combination of materials and processes. The advantages and disadvantages of human body are often adjusted by means of oblique cutting, and the geometric lines and body curves are integrated together to show the charm of Oriental women.
Fu Kui: the advantage of advanced white-collar customizing is to pay attention to the service to the customers. The white-collar, highly ordered guests are some successful people. They have very high requirements for the reception environment and service. Therefore, we receive these high-end customers mainly in the white collar stores, and introduce the concept of exclusive service time on the waiting process. All employees in the shop are serving the customer at the appointed time.
In addition to the advantages of service, we also have a great choice in the choice of designers. White-collar workers have 5 top ten designers nationwide, providing one to one professional and exclusive services for our senior customized guests.
Xia Xia: first of all, there are Chinese cultural connotations in the costumes. Kevin Kelly's Chinese fashion series have Chinese philosophy and cultural temperament, but they are not Chinese style clothes.
Secondly, we understand the psychology of Chinese consumers, which are closer to their life and know what kind of services and products they want.
Another layer of culture, Kevin Kelly is a kind of comfortable service, such as the housekeeper team to the airport to pick up customers, bring the clothes he needs, we also opened urgent order service for the guests.
And, like Zegna, it seems to be another manifestation of the circle culture.
Question 7
What are the similarities and differences between China's customized market and foreign brands?
Fu Kui: China's high-end customized market started late, mostly based on brand studios, and the advanced custom history of foreign countries is even longer. There are many famous brand names.
Moreover, many famous international advanced brands are backed by large consortia. Therefore, from the point of view of brand promotion, the domestic advanced customized brands are much worse than the international brands.
In addition, many advanced brand names abroad include advanced clothing business, clothing, perfume and cosmetics business, which form a complete product structure system.
The domestic advanced orders are mostly studios, and few brands can be claimed, and these advanced customized brands have almost nothing but advanced orders.
This is also the biggest difficulty facing the domestic advanced customized brands. The development space of advanced customized business is very limited.
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Question 8
How to view the future of brand customized market?
Zhang Zhifeng: in my article "dawn of Chinese luxury goods" published in 2005, I have predicted that a century of history has nurtured Europe as the first step of luxury. After the two World War, the United States became the number one economic power and became the second step of luxury goods with half a century of prosperity. In the recent 30 years of economic take-off and the rise of nearly 30 years in China, East Asia has become the third step of luxury consumption, but fashion has not become the third step of luxury brands.
Today, China has become a new place of luxury goods.
Throughout the international trend of change, the focus of global fashion is shifting gradually in recent years. The world looks at the East, and China in the East, with independent fashion discourse power, will surely lead the global fashion trend.
Fu Kui: for the famous high-end custom brands in China now, apart from stabilizing their own advanced customized business, the development of garment products will be a new way out.
Using advanced customization to enhance brand image will be a new idea full of challenges.
With the continuous improvement of people's living standards, we believe that the size and depth of domestic women's clothing market will continue to expand and deepen.
With the invasion of the international brand, we compete with the international brands in the same market environment. Besides the time, the place and the people, we need a little confidence and innovation to make our brand bigger and stronger.
Paul Liu: for the underwear market, the exclusive order to serve the general public will be the direction of future development.
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