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    A Nation Without Its Own National Costume (Map)

    2010/9/19 9:27:00 819

    Chinese Style Dress Civilization

     

    There are many nations in the world who do not have their own writing, but few of them have their own national costume.

    Among the 56 ethnic groups in China, Tibetan, Mongolian and Uygur ethnic groups have their own national costumes, but the Han nationality does not have their own national costumes.

    The Han nationality does not have its own national costume, which is rather awkward in many cases.

    For example, the third set of RMB 10 yuan issued in 1964, commonly known as "great solidarity", was worn by ethnic groups in different ethnic costumes, while Han people wore Chinese tunic suits.

    Another example is the fourth set of RMB issued in 1987, which depicts the patterns of all nationalities in China with a population of more than one million people. Other ethnic groups have their own unique national costumes. Only the Han nationality and the 1 yuan coupons on the 10 yuan coupons are wearing the same clothes.

    Even many Chinese have the impression that wearing national costume is a symbol of the minority.


    In fact, Han nationality has not had its own national costume since ancient times. On the contrary, Han nationality's ancient costume is very distinctive.

    In the spring and Autumn period and the Warring States period, the Han nationality's national costume was basically stereotyped.

    The wide sleeves are the most distinctive features of Han style clothes from other ethnic costumes. Besides, the large sleeves also serve as a bag. They can put things into their sleeves and hold their cuffs with hands. They will not fall out of their sleeves.



    In ancient times, there was a famous filial son (whose name could not be remembered for a moment). He was a poor scholar. When he came to a financial home, the rich man asked him to eat oranges.

    But when he said goodbye to the rich man before he left, he forgot that there were still hidden oranges in his sleeve. He didn't squeeze the cuffs with his hand.

    Others laughed at him for stealing the oranges, but he did not change his face and said no, "my mother has never eaten such delicious oranges. I dare not enjoy it alone, so I want to take a few back to let my mother taste it."

    After listening, the others turned from ridicule to awe and praised the scholar for his filial piety. Stealing oranges became a good idea for filial piety.

    Unfortunately, we are not as filial as the ancients. Now, if someone has stolen the oranges, they will not be praised as "filial piety" by the same excuse, but will be laughed at as a "Laughing Man".

    {page_break}


    Another major feature of Han clothing is not using buckle.

    But because there are no buttons, it is necessary to use a wide belt to keep the clothes in place so that they will not be exposed.

    At that time, the working class directly engaged in manual labor wore a "short shirt", which was called "clothes" on the upper body and called "clothes" under the clothes.

    In modern Chinese, there is still the word "clothes", but in spoken language, it has been renamed "trousers".

    For those who have money and status, and those who do not directly engage in manual labor, they usually wear gowns, that is, the robes of the upper garment and the next garment.

    From the Han Dynasty, the robe was used for costume. After that, all the dynasties such as Tang, song, Ming and other dynasties wore the formal Han costumes with wide sleeves and no buttons. The costumes and sleeves became a symbol of the civilization of the Han nationality in the Central Plains.



    The Han nationality costumes with large sleeves and large sleeves also reflect the Han's outlook on life, that is, pursuing a peaceful and clean and peaceful life, and do not like to engage in intense adventures.

    The clothes with wide sleeves and big sleeves are suitable for watching the flowers, singing poems and playing chess, but it is very difficult to wear such clothes for horse riding and hunting.

    Since ancient times, ethnic minorities around the Central Plains have adopted narrow sleeved tight clothing to suit their favorite way to ride and shoot adventure.

    During the Warring States period, King Zhao Wuling once wanted to carry out tight sleeves and close fitting "Hu Fu", but the traditional forces were too big and did not achieve much.

    In the Tang Dynasty Kaiyuan and Tianbao years, the narrow sleeves and tight clothing had also been popular for a while, but did not have a great influence on the traditional Han costume.



    The traditional Han costume with big sleeves and big sleeves disappeared suddenly in the Qing Dynasty.

    It is not that the Han people voluntarily abandon their traditional clothes, but are forced to change their clothes under the butcher's knife.

    After the Manchu entered the Central Plains, they began to implement the mandatory shaving and easy to wear movement.

    Traditionally, Han men traditionally put their hair on the top of their heads for a bun and fixed it with a hairpin.

    Du Shiyun: "whitish scratching is shorter and mixed with desire", which means that every day, because of worry, scratches and scratches the white hair, so that the hair becomes less and less accessible to the hairpin.

    After the entry of the Manchu people into the customs, the Han men were forced to shave and braided their Manchu customs according to the Manchu custom. Besides, Han men were also prohibited from wearing traditional robes of large robes, forcing the Manchu's tight robe and mandarin jacket to be enforced.

    So far, the traditional costumes of Han nationality's robe and robe have been extinct for more than two thousand years, and the Han nationality has become a nation without its own traditional costume.

    {page_break}


    After the Manchu rule over the Central Plains, one of the most worrying problems was that a few Manchu people were assimilated by the majority of the Han people.

    The Manchu tried to assimilate the Han people by forcing the Han people to wear mantra, but in the end they were assimilated by the Han people.

    This is mainly due to the inversion of the Manchu people, only the surface, not the content, only forcing the Han people to imitate the costumes, but not forcing the Han people to speak Manchu.

    Although it is much more difficult to ask the Han people to rewrite Manchu than Manchu, it is much more difficult to do so.

    Kangxi, Emperor Qianlong, was very smart, but compared with foreigners, he was still a little bit worse. He did not think of using the method of "TOEFL" to set up a craze for learning Chinese Manchu.


    If the Manchu TOEFL examination was held in the Qing Dynasty, it could only be official if the Manchu TOEFL reached more than 600 points. Then the Manchu language of Han scholars would be fluent in one race for a few decades. The private school also had to offer a special course from primary school Manchu to meet the needs of parents.

    If the Qing emperor had another legislation, he could apply to join the "Manchu" (set a person's number restriction) better than the Han nationality who had been loyal to the Manchu for more than ten years. At that time, the Han nationality who applied for full membership was never expected to be less than the Chinese who applied for admission to the US.

    Because Chinese Americans are only civilians in the United States, while the Han nationality can be an official.

    If the minds of the emperors of the Qing Dynasty were shrewd again, the Han nationality would have been assimilated into Manchu as a result of the "Manchu TOEFL" and "Manchu Naturalization", and Chinese characters had long been forgotten fossilized characters.


    Anyway, the Qing Dynasty Manchu successfully eliminated the Han costume.

    By the time the Han revolution was restored to the throne, the Han people began to rack their brains for their costumes. They used the robe of men's robes and their mandarin jacket, and the Han people did not want to; the people changed their suits and became more and more indifferent. The restoration of the Han traditional costumes before the Qing Dynasty had no way of knowing what the Chinese style clothes were over 200 years ago.

    So in the end, the Han people had to redesign their own clothing to get rid of the embarrassment of no national costume.

    What style does the new national costume adopt? The idea of revolutionary pioneers and ordinary people is different.

    {page_break}


    The revolutionary party thought westernized, so in the clothing problem also consider western style clothing style.

    During the revolution of 1911, most of the revolutionaries were left for studying in Japan. At that time, students at Nihon University usually wore student clothes. It was said that Sun Zhongshan himself used to disguise himself as a student in Japan in order to avoid the eyes of the detective in the Qing Dynasty. Therefore, the revolutionary party had a special feeling towards the student service of Nihon University.

    After the success of the revolution, Sun Zhongshan changed the pattern according to the student service of Nihon University, and made a new national costume for the Han Nationality: the Chinese tunic suit (those who had the heart to see the photos of students' clothes taken by Lu Xun and others when they studied in Japan) could understand the similarity between the Chinese tunic suit and the student clothes.

    The Chinese tunic suit has been cheered by the revolutionary party members, but the reflection of the ordinary people is a cold water altar.

    At that time, besides the revolutionary party members, the Chinese tunic suit did not raise a hot suit in the folk.

    Yuan Shikai, a military official in the Beiyang government, wore a military uniform, a civilian official wore a suit, and he did not adopt a Chinese tunic suit as a formal uniform.

    However, when Emperor Yuan Shikai was emperor, he designed the emperor's uniform and the emperor's clothes with the big sleeves under the traditional Chinese costume, but these clothes were just like the emperor's dream of Yuan Shikai.



    The thought of the ordinary people is far more conservative than the revolutionary party, and it has not taken the radical road of dress reform, but has chosen gradual reformism.

    With the characteristics of traditional and traditional Western-style clothes, folk costume designers have designed various styles of new fashions, and the most successful one is cheongsam.

    Originally cheongsam refers to the gowns worn by flag men (both men and women), but the cheongsam we now call generally refers to the new women's clothing that emerged after 1920s.

    This new style of dress is based on the old full cheongsam style. It absorbs western style cutting methods, makes the robe body more tightly fitting, and increases the degree of clothing exposure, fully showing the beauty of the female body.

    The new cheongsam was first popular among female students in Shanghai. Wearing a new style cheongsam became a symbol of new women in the new era.

    In 1930 and 1940s, cheongsam entered the heyday and became the standard clothing for Chinese women.


    {page_break}


    The Chinese tunic suit advocated by the revolutionary party is too westernized and has no oriental characteristics. Foreigners do not understand the Chinese tunic suit as a garment with Chinese characteristics.

    The cheongsam, with its strong oriental flavor, has been recognized by the world. It has won an overseas name "CHINA DRESS" and the small cloth button used in Qipao is also known as "CHINA BUTTON".

    But most foreigners do not know that the so-called "CHINA DRESS" and "CHINA BUTTON" do not have any direct blood ties with the Han nationality, the ethnic Han nationality that accounts for more than 90% of the Chinese population.



     


    Although the Chinese tunic suit is a separate official, the national costume has not been recognized by the Han people and has not become popular in China.

    But after the Communists came to power, the situation changed greatly.

    The Communists who thought more Westernized began to implement the Chinese tunic suit semi compulsively, and all kinds of styles of clothing disappeared. The Chinese tunic suit (also known as the people's wear) became the standard clothing of the Chinese overnight.

    There are also some unknown foreigners who call the Chinese tunic suit a woolen garment, because the Chinese tunic suit is popular in the Mao Zedong era.

    Although the fashion reform did not adopt "violence without leaving the head", the coercion atmosphere was quite strong.

    In the Mao Zedong era, Western-style clothes represented capitalism, and cheongsam represented feudalism. Who dared to take the risk of being criticized for wearing suits or Qipao? Although most Chinese did not like the Chinese tunic suit, under the pressure of power, the Chinese still subconsciously changed the Chinese tunic suit.

    It can be seen from the great changes in Chinese costumes that the Han nationality is a nation that tends to bow to violence.


    After the Mao Zedong era, clothing was also lifted.

    Although cheongsam and other popular clothes in 1930 and 1940s did not bring back to life, Western-style men and women wear became popular, and the semi compulsory Chinese tunic suit was once again sent to the clothing Museum.

    In 1950s, the revolutionary youth who wore the Chinese tunic suit represented the progressive ideological progress. In 1990s, they wore Chinese tunic suits instead of old fashioned stubborn symbols. Even the old cadres who had revolutionized the Chinese tunic suit were mostly dressed in suits.

    Now, in addition to some special remote places, China has rarely seen the traces of the Chinese tunic suit, nor has it seen the garment factories specializing in the production of Chinese tunic suits.

    It seems that Sun Zhongshan and other revolutionary party's national costume Chinese tunic made by Chinese Han people has never been recognized by the vast majority of Han people.

    Although foreigners call cheongsam "CHINA DRESS", Han people understand that cheongsam is not a traditional costume of Han people. So far, Han people have not got rid of the embarrassment of not having their own national costume.

    {page_break}


    Although the traditional Han style clothing has disappeared in China, it has roots and blossoms in the East.

    In Japan, the Han costume gradually entered Japan. During the period when Nara sent a large number of "Tang Dynasty envoys" to China, Japan actively introduced Tang Dynasty Han style clothes. Japanese folk also carried out the so-called "Tang style" clothes. The Japanese kimono was formed on the basis of the Han style costume in the Tang Dynasty.

    Historically, Japan's kimono should be called "Han style clothing", because kimono is much later than Han style clothing, and kimono is a copy or replica of Han style clothing. It fully inherited the main characteristics of traditional Chinese dress with large sleeves and no buttons.

    Women's kimono wear a wide waistband to tie their clothes. The knot is tied around the back. There are many kinds of knots. Some look like a small burden. Some people think Japanese women carry a bag behind their kimono.

    Japanese have a special love for kimono. Although Japanese usually wear western style clothes, many Japanese still wear kimono during festival celebrations.

    If anyone has seen the Japanese Imperial Prince wearing a kimono "imperial portrait" when he married in 1993, he can recall the feeling of the Han Dynasty dynasty's Han Dynasty's big sleeves and big sleeves.


    But now Han people are unable to return the inventions of their inventions of Han style clothing. The world has regarded kimono as a national costume in Japan, and foreigners have also made the kimono as "KIMONO" according to Japanese pronunciation.

    The real Chinese inventions are called "kimono", and the cheongsam which is not directly related to the Han people is called "CHINA DRESS". This is also a historical joke on the Han people.


    Not only foreigners do not know that kimono is a replica of Hanfu, but Japanese do not know that kimono is a Japanese national costume.

    Once I talked with a Japanese about the kimono, which was modeled on the style of ancient Chinese clothing. The old man shook his head like a drum, and said, "no, no, you have clothes buttons, CHINA BUTTON, and collar, kimono, no buttons, no collar, kimono and your ancient costume in China."

    The images of the ancient Chinese in the eyes of the ordinary Japanese are all dressed in long gowns and Mandarin gowns, with long braids, and do not know that the Chinese are dressed under the knife of the foreign race.


    Nowadays, most countries in the world wear western style clothes. In daily life, people wear Western styles of western style clothes, but during festivals, people of all nationalities wear their national costumes.

    Chinese Han people, even during the pure Han festival such as Spring Festival, could not find the right national costume, so they had to wear new clothes to make up for it.

    Although Han people are always proud to have a long history of 5000 years, a nation with a history of 5000 years does not have its own national costume. It is also hard to believe.

    But fortunately, the Han people's masturbation is strong. Few Han people feel sad or ashamed for not having their own national costume. "No, no, what about their own national costumes?"

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