Lace Development And Production: Tell You A Real Lace.
First, the development of lace
Lace
Production is an ancient handicraft. Records show that the lace process had already appeared in the early fourteenth Century.
Flanders
(now at the junction of Belgium and France), but the real lace production began in the late fifteenth Century and early sixteenth Century.
Italy
。
In the early sixteenth Century in Italy, lace production was used by aristocratic women to kill time. Later, these aristocratic women handed their skills to the church nuns.
Because the preparation of lace can help the nuns meditate and earn money for their monastery, which means killing two birds with one stone, so this activity soon spread throughout the convent of Italy.
But the lace made in Burano island off the northeast coast of Venice is also known as the finest lace in the world.
It is said that MaryTudor, the queen of Scotland, also made his wedding dress to Burano.
At the height of the lace industry in Italy, almost all the women on the island were
Lace
Handicraft, therefore, Burano island is also known as "lace island".
There is another interesting legend about this beautiful island.
Hundreds of years ago, a sailor had to leave his beloved fiancee to fish in the sea in order to live.
One day, the sailor met a mermaid. The mermaid was moved by the deep feeling of the sailor. So the waves that had sprung up from the tail were turned into a beautiful wedding gift sailor.
After the sailor returned, the young women on the island copied the wedding dress with needlework.
When you get off the boat, go straight to the direction of the city of krub, and you will see all eyes are sold.
Lace
Products shop.
Because it is purely hand-made, its price will not be cheap. A handkerchief embroidered with a pattern on a small angle will cost five yuan or seventy yuan.
In sixteenth Century
Italy
The most powerful and prestigious family of the medic family is the largest number of lace except gold and silver.
When Catherine, the Regent queen, was married to France in CatherinedeMedici, she also carried a large number of lace, making lace become the most fashionable commodity at that time.
reach
France
Not long after that, Queen Catherine successfully lobbied Henry IV to spend a lot of money.
Italy
The most skilled master of lace will go to France.
During the reign of Louis Xiv, lace became the dream of everyone. Wearing lace ornaments was the most popular style of French court aristocracy.
In 1640, the first lace studio was established in Alencon, France. In fact, the Pointd 'Alencon handmade lace produced by Alencon has long been recognized as the finest and most elegant French lace.
But the French lace is far from meeting the luxurious court life at that time. The French still need to import a lot of lace from Venice, so Louis Xiv ordered the establishment of 12 national lace production studios.
Alencon is naturally the first of its kind. The local lace industry has been developing rapidly, and Pointd 'Alencon handmade lace is quickly reaching the perfect height.
In 1650, the French lace design had completely surpassed Italy lace.
French lace is more thin and light compared with its predecessor.
At that time, the French Minister Corbet advocated the use of the national fund to encourage the development of the luxury industry to increase the wealth of the country. In 1665, he brought a group of excellent lace masters in Venice to France and set up many lace production schools to train French local artisans.
With the support of the government, French lace production was flourishing at that time.
By eighteenth Century, European Court aristocrats were basically made of lace.
Every elegant French lady has to prepare a tower head ornament Fontage in her closet, which is made by Alencon lace, which is made by Louis Xiv's mistress.
As for men's clothing cuffs, collar and stockings, Alencon lace is also widely used.
Thus, Pointd 'Alencon handmade lace is known as "
Ladentelledesreines
(Queen of lace).
In the eighteenth Century Rococo Era, pornography and erotic hedonism prevailed, and the female body became the object of male appreciation. "Exposure and elegance" became the best clothing taste for women.
The more taboo it is, the more exposed it is.
Lace
Set off.
As an indispensable element of dress, lace became the fuel of pornography.
By the time of neoclassical and Romanticism in nineteenth Century, lace continued to make a lot of use in costume production, but had basically abandoned the pornographic elements of last century and became a symbol of romance and elegance, purity and beauty.
In the early nineteenth Century, lace production remained the main industry in France, but then began to decline.
During his reign, Napoleon actively promoted the development of French lace industry, but the flourishing scene did not last long.
After twentieth Century, lace never encountered the "golden age" before.
Nevertheless, lace has undergone several centuries of ups and downs and still has an irresistible charm.
At the end of last century, lace became the superstar of fashion stage and became an important element of sexy fashion.
Two.
Lace
Making
The old hand lace often conceals an interesting story, because the user is not a church priest or a court aristocrat, so the pattern is basically a nobility totem or a special religious meaning.
How did these beautiful and interesting patterns be woven? The earliest lace was specially designed to hollow out the mesh when making. The craftsmen rolled up and twisted the thread first, and then woven it to another independent backing fabric.
In addition, the mesh can be formed by pulling off the thread cloth on the woven fabric.
In order to show the finery of the dress, the former lace usually used linen, silk, or even silver or gold thread.
Now lace is mainly cotton, and lace produced by machine also uses synthetic fiber.
Lace can be roughly divided into mechanism lace and handwork.
Lace
。
Hand-made lace is more delicate, but more time-consuming, laborious and expensive than lace.
Because of the demand of socialized production, most of the lace on the market is now made by machines, and the price is naturally cheaper because of less manpower and time.
However, even if the lace is machined, it needs manual inspection to ensure the quality of the product.
According to its production process, hand-made lace can be subdivided into BobbinLace lace woven lace, NeedleLace embroidery lace, Cutwork air lace, TapeLace narrow lace, KnottedLace knot lace, CrochetedLace crochet lace, KnittedLace knitted lace and Guipure convex silk.
The most common among them are club lace woven lace and needle embroidered lace.
The famous French Chantilly lace and the most difficult Belgian mesh lace Binche is a kind of lace weave lace, while the wheel pattern lace Teneriffe and South American Nanduti lace are needle embroidered lace.
As the name suggests, the lace weaving lace is woven by hand knitted cotton yarn and linen thread.
Its production is a very complicated process.
Unlike traditional Chinese lace hooks and embroidery, the lace weave lace should be made according to a certain pattern.
First of all, the craftsman will put a disc shaped lace cushion on the pattern, and then stab holes in the various parts of the pattern to determine the position of the decorative pattern.
When making, the wire needs to be wound around a small wooden shuttle. After it is finished, the thread is drawn out and fixed on the pattern. Then the wooden shuttle is connected to the shaft needle and then formally weaved.
Each wooden shuttle is usually only thumb sized, and the number of wooden spindles depends on the size of lace products and the complexity of their designs.
If you make 10 centimeter lace, the diameter of every 10 millimeters will be wrapped around a wooden shuttle. Therefore, a simple pattern may require dozens of wooden shuttles to nearly 100, and larger patterns even need hundreds of wooden shuttles.
In addition, different patterns often require different knitting techniques, such as plain weaving, weaving, weaving and weaving.
Such a complex process, even if it is only completed a less complicated pattern, may cost a skilled technician for a month or more.
After the completion of the knitting, the lace products are usually ironed and dyed, and now the advanced hand-made lace will be dyed before weaving.
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