Paris'S High-End Custom Fashion Week Is Far More Ornamental Than Buying.

Paris two times a year

I am afraid there will not be any brand that will easily show the public accounts of the advanced custom.

Paris's advanced custom fashion week two times a year is far more ornamental than buying sex. In most cases, it is regarded as an activity that smashed big money and vigorously promoted the brand image.

The financial crisis of the past two years has greatly challenged the existence of advanced customization. When people thought it was at stake, it still came stubbornly.

Now, when the black clouds disperse, as New York Times Cathy Horyn said, in fact, when all luxury companies recover, they focus their attention on China and hungry Chinese customers.

The noble members of developing countries including China have also joined the customer base of advanced customization.

The value of advanced customization in the past century has been that the unique characteristics of creativity, fabric and technology that they possess are nowhere to be seen in other places.

Especially this year, it can be said that the fabric is about creativity.

John Galliano said, "if a series does not use the fabric, it is absurd as a painter does not paint.

In France, there is a wonderful saying that the fabric is noble.

I like to find the perfect texture, perfect printing and dyeing, and perfect printing to enrich my creative ideas.

Jakob Schlaepfer, a famous Swiss fabric brand that once provided half of its products to the custom brand, has recently developed and produced 250-300 new designers for every season. Of course, the price of fabrics is no longer the same.

The velvet velvet fabric developed by Jakob Schlaepfer will use one million sequins every 9 meters, so the price per meter is 1000 Swiss francs, that is, almost 950 dollars.

And this fabric is not every garment brand and series can bear, the big customer is still high custom.

Riccardo Tisci used the top Chantilly lace, silk tassel, ostrich feathers and a large number of pearls, and embroidery made the exquisite Givenchy 2010 autumn and winter high custom, only 10 sets of look, see what is golden.

The humorous Jean Paul Gaultier made galvanized effect from leather, showing the core of Paris fashion.

Despite the growing clamor of advanced clothing in recent years, "less is more" is no longer the law of ready-made clothes.

The concept of sky and sky, advanced and unique design, exquisite and luxurious details, impeccable tailoring and all kinds of new fabrics make the garments quite similar to the "magnificent" custom fashions.

On the contrary, advanced customization has taken the route of "new & useful (new and practical)". Anyone who has been struggling for several years in the fashion industry knows that many things can be found in the recent ready-made clothes series.

But clothing can never replace advanced customization, and the most important way is to draw a group of new customers with advanced customization in the way of "advanced customization and clothing".

Customization and clothing separation

I am afraid that no brand will be able to produce a custom account.

Just joining the ranks of advanced customization, Alexis Mabille, who claimed to be unaffected by "over-designed (complex design)", played the mix / match (mix and match) game in the garment in this season's advanced customization. She said the series was worn by modern professional women to participate in the high-profile events (high-profile party).

Black tuxedo can match pink crepe ties, shirts and trousers, or a simple black dress, and a simple Black Lace tights + pencil pants, all of which are continuing the functional style of the garment.

The fabric of velvet, lace and crepe is relatively luxurious, but the whole series is still full of practical and youthful refreshing atmosphere.

Bouchra Jarrar, who has worked in Chrisian Lacroix and Balenciaga, is a highly customized new generation. This season is the second appearance of her work.

After the above two jobs, Bouchra Jarrar was unexpectedly unaffected by the gorgeous styles of the two brands, but still knew the luxury core of the brand and fashion, and launched the design of "my maturity, my age" (my maturity, my age).

Her palette has navy blue, black, ivory color, and a little gold embellishment. The streamlined outline of the air box and sportfeel shapes the suit, dress, sleeveless windbreaker, long dress, and the deep V geometry from the chest to the navel is the focus of the whole audience.

Bouchra Jarrar said that this is a real "custom-made and ready-made" series, which can be customized or purchased in shops.

Tim Blanks, a famous fashion critic, said: "if enough customers can resonate with Bouchra Jarrar, her viewpoint will also become a new generation of customization."

Suzy Menkes is called "the turning point of high interest fashion".

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Steady and steady win the celebrities

Giorgio Armani can still catch the hearts of dignitaries.

The Elie Saab of the "red carpet specialist" is inspired by the La Fenice, the velvet curtain, the silver plated and blue ornaments in Venice's famous theatre, and even the fire red and ashes that have been used in the theater fire. The asymmetrical single shoulder and bat sleeves combined with the traditional hanging and winding way create a distinctive dress gown. No wonder it is called "the joy of the people" by Jessica Michault of the International Herald Tribune.

Elie Saab says that if a woman does not ask for a sense of abundance, she will not come to customize clothes.

Therefore, this series of long gowns wrapped in blood red gauze bandage and lace and sequins will be the next absolute goal of the stars.

Giorgio Armani, which holds a large number of dignitaries, will be like a series of yellowish black-and-white photos with ArmaniPrive amber theme and tone.

The collar and shoulder padded wooden brooch is the main element of "classic reappearance". It emphasizes the exaggerated but soft way of hanging the overflowing coat, the ruffle on the evening dress is unawares, and the smooth satin fabric gives a concise and powerful sense of line.

The whole series also needs the waist jacket of crocodile skin to reflect the luxury of Armani.

Last month, the princess of Sweden was married. CharleneWittstock, the princess of Monaco's crown prince Albert, wore Prive silver grey dress. When new designers were groping or trying to change the way of advanced customization, GiorgioArmani could still grasp the hearts of dignitaries. They were loyal customers who paid real gold and silver.

Old young heart

JohnGalliano brings a flower feast to ChristianDior. Besides the huge orange flowers in the background, the models are also dressed as "flowers" with 3-D vision.

Iris, purple and marshmallow yellow, and ubiquitous turquoise, feathers, ruffles, and floral edges create complex patterns of flowers. Only beautiful and elegant dresses can surprise the winter. For example, Chinese super model Liu Wen's large package collar, jade Mohair coat and black petal fold bud skirt, and the hand-painted violet dress is more shocking and applause like thunder.

The stage of advanced customization is less than ChristianLacroix's gorgeous rose print, the great lovely puff dress and the luxuriant gem decoration, but John Galliano is still there. ChrisitianDior's show is a victory for the new series of advanced custom week opening day with leisure style and walking between advanced customization and garment.

Perhaps the relationship between customers is getting younger and younger. This season, Valentino aims to upgrade and update baby doll.

Because CocoChanel is a Leo, this animal is very important for brand and KarlLagerfeld.

This time, Lord Buddha moved a giant golden lion into the The Grand Palace of Paris. Under the palm of the golden lion, he played with the Chanel's white pearl.

The combination of sex appeal and exotic wildness is the main style of Chanel autumn and winter advanced customization, which can be seen from the messy hairstyles of models and maiden makeup.

A fashion revolution is taking place, first of all, color. KarlLagerfeld refers to the colors used by the beasts, mainly chestnut, wine, camel, deep olive and navy blue, but feels warm and cordial, and abandons the large area of black, and uses black only for miniskirts. The fabric innovation is that velvet is decorated in color, crystal is decorated in camel and leather is decorated in twill weave.

The biggest innovation is proportional distribution, mainly in the form of short, long and medium length, such as seven sleeves, short sleeves, high waist and knee skirts. This scale form is undoubtedly a daring challenge for many figures.

This season's Chanel also has no drag on long skirts because KarlLagerfeld wants to tell women what the latest trend is in a new ratio.

It is no mistake to call the new Valentino Custom New Series "younger and younger". The whole show is almost Lolita's wardrobe display.

Perhaps the relationship between customers is getting younger and younger. This season, Valentino aims to upgrade and update Babydoll.

Except for a few of the long skirts, the skirts of this season are short and broad, and appear A.

The traditional elements such as giant flower shape, bow tie, petal skirt and so on are naturally indispensable, and the "bird cage" is directly set on the model body, and lace and pparent hard yarn are everywhere.

But this is autumn and winter. Although seasonless is a trend, the girls who fall in love with Valentino are doomed to have a "cool" winter.