On The Basis Of "Tailoring" For Garment Sewing
Tailoring
It is the foundation of sewing. The accuracy of cutting should be ensured when cutting, that is, the error between the cutting piece and the template.
Clothing for batch processing often needs to be cut according to the size and quantity of clothing according to the size and quantity of the garment, and according to the direction of the sample, the reasonable layout should be made, and the errors between the layers should be complying with the regulations.
The incorrect cutting method will not only completely deviate the design structure of the garment, but also cause great waste.
In batch processing, it will cause great losses to the producers.
It is concluded that the following requirements should be grasped correctly:
Grasp the correct order.
That is to say, no cross cut, straight cut, first outside the mouth after the mouth, first zero, small material after the whole material, segment by knife, piecing material.
Know how to handle corners.
At the corner of the garment piece, the cutting should be carried out with different sides of the corner, instead of continuous corner cutting to ensure accurate cutting.
The left hand presses the material, the force is even and gentle, cannot tilt, the right hand pushes the knife to be relaxed, free and orderly.
Tailoring
Keep the cutters perpendicular so as to avoid errors in each layer.
Make sure that the cutters are always sharp, and there is no cutting edge to ensure that the edges of the edges are smooth and straight.
When the knife is cut, the location must be accurate, and the cut shall not exceed 3mm and be clear and durable.
When cutting, it is important to note that the cutting temperature can not be too high, especially synthetic fiber. High temperature easily causes the phenomenon of color change, yellowness, adhesion, and so on.
Tailoring is not an independent job. It needs to prepare for paving and painting before cutting.
The laying material is laid on the cutting bed according to the laying requirements and laying materials according to the required number of layers and lengths.
For large stretchable materials, they need to be placed for several hours after laying, so that the stress can be retracted and then reduced.
Paving material has its own technological requirements:
Cloth leveling
。
When laying material, the surface of each material must be leveled and not wrinkled or distorted.
Otherwise, the garment piece will be deformed, which will bring difficulties to the sewing work, and will have an adverse effect on the effect and quality of the garment.
Aligning selvage.
When laying material, it is required that the edges of each layer should be aligned and not uneven. Otherwise, it is easy to cause variation of size specifications in short edge parts, resulting in secondary slices.
The general requirements in the border area are stricter, and the requirements should be neat and orderly. The difference should not exceed 2mm, because the mouth area will be used as the baseline for future layout.
The other side ensures natural leveling.
The tension is uniform and as small as possible.
In order to lay the material smooth, a certain tension must be applied when necessary. The force must be uniform and as small as possible to prevent wrinkling from uneven internal stress.
The direction is consistent and meets the requirements.
Many materials have obvious positive or negative directions or special orientations. Materials should be kept in the same direction in order to ensure consistent effect.
Alignment
pattern
。
In order to ensure or highlight the design effect of materials with strips, squares, flowers and patterns, the design of the layout plan is required according to the design requirements in the laying process.
Careful and meticulous preparation for the preparation and proper cutting methods can be used for the next procedure of garment processing - sewing.
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