The Most Valuable Thing Is Manual &Nbsp; Clothing Prices Are Heating Up The Tailor Shop.
In the 80s and 90s of last century, people used to pull cloth into tailoring shops to make new clothes.
Ready-made clothes
"This new term, in the past, was not a closed shop, but a pformation of the clothes shop. It gradually faded away from the people's view. Only a few shops relied on bringing forth the new to survive.
As the Spring Festival approached, people began to sweep goods everywhere for the purchase of new clothes.
In recent days, a reporter's survey found that in addition to shopping in the mall, the tailor shop, which was regarded as an "antique" business by the young people, changed the concept of clothing design studio and quietly returned to people's lives. Even young people who pursued fashion and personality walked into tailoring shop this winter.
The tailor shop has gone too far.
After a day's visit
Market
Not buying the right clothes, not the style, but the price is a little high.
fashion
The woolen coat, carrying the print from the Internet, she walked into a clothing shop in Henan Road, and ordered the shopkeeper to tailor one to her style.
When she picked up the material, she found that there were still customers coming home. In addition to the forty or fifty year old middle-aged people, there were more than 20 year old female white-collar workers, some of them made up Jackets and some made trousers, but they were all preparing for the Spring Festival.
Ms. Jiang wondered why there were so many people making clothes now. The shopkeeper said that the orders were full before the year. If they were not old customers, they would not receive any work.
Young people follow tusor's clothes.
And the old tailor, Cheng Cong Bao, who opened shop in the department store, discovered that young people who had rarely visited the young people recently had more young people. Often young people with white collar or student appearance found her with fashion magazines or pictures downloaded from the Internet, asking if she could tailor them according to the pattern. However, with more than 30 years of tailoring skills, she did not know how to work, and the design and tailoring were not a problem.
"Clothes in the shopping mall, which is on the brand, in fact, we have the same fabric here, the style can also be done, the price is cheap, relatively custom-made more cost-effective."
Mr. Fu said that many of the customers who have come to order clothes are calculating such an account. "Imitating a brand" has become the main direction they have made.
Trendy design shops attract fashionable women
Champs Elysee clothing design room opened early, through the window, the dazzling fashionable dress attracted many passers-by's eyes, and went into the shop to see the batch of cloth placed on the counter. You will realize that this is not a simple fashion shop, but tailored shop tailored to make clothes.
The shop has been here for more than 10 years, from the tailor shop, which only had 9 square meters and one person's shopkeeper, to the fashion design shop now more than 30 square meters and employing 4 tailors.
There are dozens of samples hanging out in the store, which are the latest fashioned winter clothes.
"Are these all the latest styles in the winter? This cashmere coat is good. How many have been made?" a young woman is choosing the style in the shop. She is only more than 20 years old, and it is not ambiguous to talk about the fashion trend.
"The ordinary brand women's clothing in the shopping mall is mass produced, and each brand has several styles to look at it. And when you walk to the street, you often bump into your shirt and see how much it is. Everyone wears the same character and has no personality."
The woman surnamed Li said that she often went to browse some fashionable women's clothes on the Internet. She used to shop online, but because she could not try it on, it was often inappropriate to buy it, so she thought of looking for a good clothing store to make a custom. She printed the pattern to the tailor, and there were many fabrics to choose from, so the clothes she made were seldom able to crash with people.
Shop advocates Yan Yan, just opened shop when the customers are some middle-aged and elderly people, doing is also a suit of Western clothing, Tang costume features clothing, in order to bring forth the new, she designed and manufactured the limited edition fashion ladies, gradually attracted the attention of young people.
"The main customers in our shop are young women aged 20 to 55, and 2/3 of them are under 30 years old."
Zhang Yan said that from last year, she obviously felt the growth of young groups. High school students, college students and young white-collar workers were the main groups. They had a common feature: fashion and fashion, highlighting their personalities. People often customize the designs on the Internet and make them more stringent on fabrics. Some customers also customize from Ji'nan, because tailored clothing stores like her are not very large at present.
The reporter noticed that in addition to being covered with various styles of clothing, the store also included various fashion magazines such as "Ruili", "fashion", "ELLE" and "Shanghai costumes" for customers to choose from.
The most valuable thing is handwork.
"For young people, more than 90% of the people customize their clothes are the pursuit of personality and trendy. Other people are attracted by their body problems and clothes, but the main reason why they are custom-made is the high cost performance."
Zhang Yan picked up a woollen collar of fox fur collar and said that the dress was modeled on a brand woman's suit. The counter was sold for five thousand or six thousand yuan, and the custom made one was 600 yuan. The style and material were not bad.
Reporters noted that dozens of different colors and textures were found on the wall, but mainly on woolen fabrics.
Zhang Yan said that these fabrics were imported from Shanghai and Guangzhou and ordered directly according to the samples supplied by the suppliers. The woolen materials are basically 60 yuan to 100 yuan per meter, and some high-end cashmere materials are over 200 yuan, and up to 800 yuan. However, the custom made in their shops will not be counted as cloth money and manual cost as before.
"Now the most expensive is the cost of manual labor, the cost of the short coat is 180 yuan, and the long cost may be 280 yuan."
Zhang Yan probably estimated that the cost of material and handwork for a piece of clothing is basically half and half, while profit 90% is deducted from manual labor.
And in a tailor's shop in Feixian County Road, the shopkeeper is cutting his trousers. "We won't catch up, and we won't be able to catch up until then."
The shop maintains that the lady told reporters that she was doing all the work of cutting and sewing in the shop, but she did not pick up the processing of incoming materials.
"The customers who customize clothes in our market are mostly middle-aged people. It should be said that they still have some economic foundation. After all, custom made clothes are not cheap."
Cheng Congbao, the tailor, told reporters that in general, the processing cost of a coat coat is 180 yuan, and the trousers of the processing bar are between 60 yuan and 80 yuan. The material in the shopping mall is complete. Customers can pick up the tailor in the shopping mall randomly.
Cheng master has counted the accounts for the reporters. The main materials used for making coats are cashmere and plaid. The lattice is about 60 yuan to 80 yuan per meter, and cashmere is between 120 yuan and 160 yuan per meter, with a pile height of more than 200 yuan. If you want to make a plaid female coat, you need 1.8 meters of cloth, and you can get 100 yuan for the cheapest cloth, plus 180 yuan of manual cost about 300 yuan.
It's still hard for middle and old people to buy clothes.
Walk into the first floor of Taitung's thousand Sichuan Department store. This is a place where clothing customization is centralized and cloth is complete.
Reporters saw that the fabric sold here was basically made of cashmere wool, and so on. The cloth made of winter clothes and winter trousers was placed in dozens of different kinds of cloth for customers to choose. The finished products of some clothes and trousers were hung on the top of the pavement, so that customers could see the craft of the clothes maker, but the styles of clothes and clothes hanging out were obviously monotonous.
The reporter turned around in the mall and found that although the day was not a rest day, many people were doing this in a tailored manner.
"I will go to the shopping mall to buy a coat for my mother, but I can't find a suitable one for a whole day. There are too few counters for sale in the mall."
Chen Run, who was accompanying her mother to pick cloth, said that her mother was more dainty in dress, but she was overweight at the age, and the right clothes were hard to buy. Her mother could not see the style, or it was too expensive and not cost-effective.
Ginger master at tailor's shop in Taitung said that 80% of the clothes made to his shop are elderly people.
The old people also have very exquisite, now the cloth of cloth is various, the senior coat is done, also need to spend three hundred or four hundred yuan.
Most of the elderly people can not buy the right clothes because they are special in shape.
There are also some elderly people who are not out of shape, but because they can not buy fashionable clothes suitable for their age, they also provide their tailors with their favorite styles.
"As long as they do what they want, old people like it and they are willing to shop in the sewing shop for a long time."
Clothing prices are heating up tailoring shops
Journalist survey found that price rise is an important reason for tailor shops to pick up.
This year, cotton prices have hit record highs, coupled with factors such as labor costs and shortage of migrant workers, which have led to a bullish rise from cloth wool to clothing, footwear and socks.
"Clothes are going up this year, and fewer people are buying clothes."
Ms. Gao, a clothing store who has been in Taitung for 5 years, told reporters that many people look at clothes but not in price.
Because of the rise in cotton prices, clothes such as thermal underwear, which contain high cotton content, bear the brunt.
"The price of underwear starts to rise all the way from summer, and the more it goes,"
Mr. Zhang, who has been wearing underwear for many years, told reporters that a set of thermal underwear worth eighty yuan has increased by more than 10 yuan this year. At the lowest time last year, 50 yuan would be able to buy a set of thermal underwear. At least 80 yuan was spent this year. Besides the pure cotton underwear, the retail price of all kinds of pure cotton jackets and sportswear also increased.
Tailors are fashion designers.
Twenty or thirty years ago, there were not many "tailoring shops" in the streets and lanes. Even a few shops that were barely supported were mostly pformed into simple clothes changing shops, hiding in a corner of narrow shopping arcade or a small corner of the street, and doing some simple and trivial activities such as trimming corners, changing sizes, changing chain fasteners and so on.
However, some of the tailor shops have persisted. Now they are mainly concentrated in West Town and Taitung. There are about 10 storefronts in the old streets and alleys in West town. There are also middle and low-end tailoring shops that have pformed into high-end shops in the clothing design room. Taitung is the most concentrated place for custom-made clothes.
Old tailor shops win new business opportunities
The Taitung pedestrian street on weekdays is still coming and going. It should be said that the largest and most complete textile distribution market in the city is concentrated in two commercial buildings: the department store and the big world. There are about 70 vendors in the two major shopping malls, and bedding, quilt and clothing materials are hundreds of thousands of colors. Most of the cloth is imported from Hangzhou, and a small part is imported from Shanghai and Guangzhou.
But the cloth vendors here are not as simple as selling cloth in the past. They also provide tailoring to make garments. Some old tailors have arrived here after their own tailor shop closes.
Zhong Xianye, the owner of Jinpeng boutique, located in Kwan Chun Department store, has worked for more than 30 years as an old tailor. She used to own her own shop and moved to the shopping mall because of the sluggish business. Fortunately, she had a flexible mind and faced fierce competition in the industry. She was constantly learning and researching and innovating, designing and producing fashionable costumes, attracting young people's attention continuously.
Zhong Xianye said that the clothes she made were very complicated, and men, women, old people and young people all did, tens of millions to hundreds of dollars. Suddenly, people who made clothes this winter came up, especially young people, who accounted for half of them. From January this year, they stopped taking orders, afraid that they would not be able to do it before the year.
The high-end design shop is just beginning.
The kaysec high fashion design shop located on Dagong coast of Macao was admitted to the island city last year. All the shop assistants here are graduating students from the Department of fashion design, and Lining, a shopkeeper, graduated from Qiingdao University's fashion design school last year.
"As long as the guests explain their intentions and requirements, we will map the guests to the scene and design their own suits."
Lining told reporters that the students of fashion design major attached much importance to the more technical skills of design and board making. Although they could also sew, they did not participate in the production, and the production would be handed to tailor workers.
"In fact, about three or four years ago, Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou had already had high-end clothing design shops."
Lining said that at present, the advanced clothing and customization industry in Qingdao is still in its infancy, and there is still much room for development.
Such as tailored clothing, Yongzheng clothing store and so on, men's clothing as the main high-end clothing custom shop, do a relatively simple suit, as a national old chain store, also has a place in the island city, their customer base is mainly for successful people, a suit of Western clothing price in thousands of yuan or even tens of thousands of yuan, and some brand stores even invite designers from abroad to customize for customers.
A Japanese suit brand looked at the high-end custom market in the island city. In July this year, a business office was set up in Qingdao. The price of a suit was more than 8000. The price of the suit was 20 thousand yuan. When the number of customers reached more than 20, the Japanese tailor went to Qingdao to pick up the cloth. The customer chose the cloth pattern. The Japanese tailor went back to Japan to process and customize the cloth. All the fabrics were made of foreign high-level fabrics, and the tailors worked meticulously. He would design and make a tailored suit for everyone's preferences and wearing habits. After less than half a year's business, he had won many repeat customers.
Store offers high-end customization
Reporters learned in the interview that the island's high-end clothing custom tailored in addition to a specialized clothing design shop, in the sunshine department store, Hisense Plaza, Paris spring and other high-end shopping malls, individual brand stores also provide tailored clothing customization, but the style is limited to the finished products in the shop.
In the spring of Paris, a women's clothing brand counters, the staff said, their brand women's clothing is generally priced at 2000 yuan to 4000 yuan, this winter there are several listed winter clothing in 6000 yuan to 7000 yuan, customized to add 20%-30% service fee, which kind of clothing can be measured and tailored, but soon after the Spring Festival, business is more, basically do not accept custom made.
"5 years ago, we implemented a new strategy to open up the market, launched the high-end volume customization of suits, and set up a special store in the urban area."
A salesperson in Qingdao's Western clothing factory, located in Daming Road, said that customers would set up a special database of human characteristics after the volume of any store. The information would be sent to the company's computer plate making center, and the world's top garment technologist should design the sample.
According to the analysis of the personage in the industry, the tailor made clothing method will continue to develop. Today, people pay attention to taste and individuality. Some formal clothes, formal dresses and special clothes will be customized in professional shops. There will be more and more high fashion stores in the future.
Personalized design is the trend
"We will tailor his costume to his image according to his personal image.
Now the tailor shop is not the traditional tailor shop in the strict sense, but the personalized clothing design room, tailoring according to the requirements and characteristics of different people, this is the trend in the future.
Zhang Yan of Champs Elysees told reporters that in this clothing design room, Shifu was no longer engaged in simple and low-end cutting and sewing, but also engaged in more skilled work such as design and proofing, and the production work was handed over to the sewing workers.
Lining analysis said that the arrival of the era of personalized consumption is an important opportunity for tailor's rebirth. Clothing studios can provide personalized customization for customers, but at present, customized services tend to be high-end and have a narrow audience.
With the gradual maturity of the clothing design studio and market segmentation, whether it will eventually replace tailoring shops or learn from each other is still unknown.
According to the industry, whether it is a small tailor shop or a high-end clothing store, it is difficult to maintain clothes alone. Ensuring the quality and having their own style is the foundation for these tailor shops to survive.
Now the clothing store is no longer a separate garment, but has been doing the image design "sideline", we should pay attention to expand the scope of business, and not only limited to a category of clothing.
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