High Threshold And Low Access: Fabric Industry: Standard Regulatory Mechanism Is Difficult To Implement.

The purchasing manager of a trading company in Hongkong soon encountered a difficult problem. He selected a pearl fiber for his foreign customers.

When it comes to the status quo of domestic standards, two kinds of voices are usually heard. One is that the threshold is too high and the other is access.

High threshold

High density fine denier thin fabric is a major development trend of chemical fiber products in recent years, such as nylon 20D fabric, gram weight in 35g / 15D, and nylon fabric, lighter weight, softer and better perspective effect.

Compared with the thicker nylon fabric, the strength index of high density fine denier product will be correspondingly reduced.

When discussing the issue with a purchasing director of a famous casual wear brand in China, she reluctantly indicated that because the national standards had not been followed up in time, enterprises could only adopt the existing high strength index coefficient for such new products. Although the enterprises also understood that this was unreasonable, the clothing brand enterprises did not dare to adopt it if the fabric strength was not up to standard.

This phenomenon is not uncommon in the industry. Whether it is fabric enterprises or downstream buyers, it is well aware that some of the domestic fabric standards are too high, but for prudent consideration, they will not arbitrarily reduce their standards.

They either choose to enforce or reject products that are not up to standard. Even so, some problems are hard to avoid.

It is understood that the current domestic standards require that the wet rubbing fastness of sanding cloth should reach more than 3.

Since this standard is a mandatory standard issued by the state in the past few years, some domestic Brand Company require that this standard be implemented.

In order to achieve this standard, domestic fabric enterprises are basically achieved through the use of some auxiliaries or coating treatment methods, but these practices usually have some negative effects.

A printing and dyeing auxiliaries in Shanghai said that from a professional technical point of view, at present, this standard can not be realized on some fibers or fabrics without special treatment, and the special treatment such as chemical assistants or coatings can achieve the requirement of wet rubbing fastness, but the performance of fabrics such as handle, moisture absorption and breathability will be affected.

And there is no such mandatory requirement in the world. In most cases, international brands will set different standards according to the fabric type and color depth.

For example, the light color cotton fabric may require wet rubbing fastness to higher than 3~4, and dark color required to reach the level of 2~3, rather than a unified mandatory requirement of 3 or more.

The actual situation also proves that the standard height does not mean that the insurance coefficient is high, nor is it equal to the high product quality. On the contrary, it will make the enterprise increase unnecessary additional burden because of rigidities and lack of flexibility. At the same time, it also makes the standard lose its applicability and authority.

Low access terminal market situation frequent

A woman dress brand design manager told reporters in an interview that the products of a certain season of the company chose a kind of woollen fabric. The fabric test results showed that the fuzzing and pilling indexes were qualified, but after making the garments, the consumers appeared the fuzzing and pilling appearance in the wearing process, which made the enterprises very difficult to deal with and suffered a lot of losses.

It is precisely because some of the current domestic standards do not play a good regulatory role, resulting in many problems with terminal consumer goods.

In order to meet the actual needs of the market, enterprises generally adopt some special detection methods, and the indicators are higher than the current standards.

For example, in terms of fabric color fastness, many enterprises will conduct color fastness testing according to actual needs. Many times they adopt non-standard methods, but they are very practical. This puts forward higher requirements for dyeing and finishing processes.

The reason why this is done is because domestic consumers demand higher color fastness and the requirements for export products are relatively low, so the two methods have different detection methods for product color fastness.

The color fastness test of export products is generally tested by international standards.

For example, if the products exported to the United States are tested by AATCC standard, the detection temperature of washing color fastness is mostly 40 and 60 degrees, but the domestic products are more market-oriented and random.

A textile and dyeing auxiliaries in Shanghai said that the color fastness test of domestic products sometimes used the industry's commonly known as "touch white fastness".

Inspectors usually take a cup of water and add a spoonful of laundry powder. Pour the boiled water into the bath, bathe it roughly at 1 to 20, and stitch a piece of white cloth with the colored cloth, and boil it on the induction cooker for a few minutes.

This test method completely exceeds our normal household laundry color fastness requirements, in fact, much higher than the export product requirements, but to ensure the use of domestic consumers requirements, and therefore has a certain degree of practicality.