Elements Of Clothing Structure

Trousers and skirts are all bottled. The difference between the two is in the structural design. They should be wrapped in legs separately. Therefore, in the design of trousers, apart from taking into account the difference between the waist and the waist, there are many other factors to consider.

(1) analysis of design elements of trousers structure

Trousers and skirts are all bottled. The difference between the two designs is that the trousers should be wrapped separately. Therefore, in the design of trousers, apart from taking into account the difference between the waist and the waist, the following factors need to be considered:

1. length of straight crotch

The length of straight crotch is the distance from the waist line to the thigh root.

The main factors affecting the length of straight crotch are the size of the hip, the age of the wearer, the interest in wearing clothes, the fit degree of the trousers and the style, which have an effect on the length of the straight crotch.

The calculation method of straight crotch length is as follows:

BR=TL/10+H/10+8~10 this calculation includes the width of the waistband.

2. the position of the hip line.

When designing trousers structure, the hip line HL is located at the waist line from 2BR/3- waist waist width.

3. the position of the middle crotch line KL is shown in the figure above. The middle crotch line is located at the middle point of HL and SBL, and then moves 5CM upward.

(two) structural design of base pants

The outline of the base pants is straight body pants, as shown below.

1. design of basic pants specifications

(1) overall specification design

TL=0.6G+X

W=W*+ (0~2)

H=H*+ (8~10)

BR=TL/10+H/10+ (8~10) (including the width of the waist of the waistband)

SB=0.2H+Y

(2) detail specification design

Front and rear hip width: FH=H/4-1, BH=H/4+1

Front and back waist width: FW=W/4-1+ tuck quantity; BW=W/4+ save.

Front and rear trousers width: FSB=SB-2, BSB=SB+2

Front and rear crotch width: H/20, H/10

Front stitch: located at EJ midpoint; rear seam: PC=0.65H/10

2. methods and steps of structural drawing

Take G=165, W*=70, H*=90 for example, as shown in the following figure.

The order of the structural drawing of trousers is usually to draw the front trousers and draw the trousers.

(1) first, the horizontal base line: WL, HL ", BRL, KL, SBL.

(2) make the longitudinal base line again: the front hip width line FHL; determine the front crotch width point E, the EL= front crotch width on BRL, confirm the front seam KM.

(3) determine the width of the front waist, the width of the front trousers and the width of the middle crotch.

(4) make sure the front trousers are folded.

(5) after painting: the BRL line is lowered by 1. The width of the rear buttock, the width of the rear crotch, the width of the middle crotch, the width of the back trousers, the width of the waist and the provincial road are determined as shown in figure 1-2-22.

(6) draw the contour lines of the trousers and size them.