Interpretation Of Chinese Tunic Suit
Ji Xue Yuan
The great change in costume is one of the democratic revolution led by Sun Zhongshan.
important
The most important result of the composition is the creation of the Zhongshan suit.
The birth of the Chinese tunic suit has a process of nurture. In the late nineteenth Century and early twentieth Century, the western-style wind came to the East, and it brought "Western-style clothes to the East".
Western-style clothes, formed in the middle of the eighteenth Century, were perfected in nineteenth Century. They spread to all parts of the world at the end of nineteenth Century and early twentieth Century, and spread to Japan. The Meiji Restoration gave birth to a new generation of new clothes (such as students' wear, railway worker's clothing and non commissioned officer's clothes).
"First awakening" people have appeared in a high-profile manner, with their amazing language and clothing articles.
The reformists criticized Kang Youwei for attacking the feudal autocracy and calling for reform. In the article and the memorials of Emperor Guangxu, they repeatedly demanded "breaking hair and easy service", and even thought that "the king should be changed easily," he said.
New policy
It can't be done either. (see "please break off Yi Yi Yuan Yuan", "Poland minutes" 6).
Wenzhou hows song's "reform" and "easy to serve" roar are not inferior to that of the South China Sea.
He began his campaign to improve himself from "more bureaucratic system, setting up a house and changing the trial order", but he started with "easy to serve" as the beginning of "three beginnings": abolishing official ranks, setting up a house, reforming the old exam system, "starting from easy suits", and arguing: whether it is the reform people, first look at the clothes.
They consciously put the problem of dress reform to the extreme, and think that in a specific historical period, clothing is no longer just a matter of life and aesthetics, but a political mark and political choice.
They use formalism as their cloak, propagandizing reformism, forcing people to show their political attitudes in clothes that are obvious to everyone, everywhere and everywhere.
Therefore, dialectics of form and content appears, sometimes the content is greater than the content.
Don't you care about politics? But politics cares about you!
Passionate
In terms of political advocacy, Song Shu seems to be slightly better than Kang.
Their cries promoted the surging tide of reform.
The reformists were anti autocratic but did not oppose the emperor, and asked the emperor to stand up and lead them to constitutional reform.
At last, they changed from the reformists and royalists to the "restoration master" (Lu Xun language) or the Qing hermit as a hermit.
However, the tide of change has finally arrived, and the revolutionaries are on the rise.
rules of mourning according to the relationship with the deceased
Historical mission.
Since his boyhood, Sun Zhongshan has set up the ambition of "making the best use of old clothes", "pforming the people into the vulgar" and "rejuvenating China".
After the Guangzhou uprising in 1895, she was exiled in Japan. He was very ambitious. He claimed that he had taken a major step: to take off the old cells and replace them with new ones.
Studying Japan, Europe, Asia and Africa, while planning the violent revolution, they also set up a strategy of great changes in dress.
Just then, the Chinese New tailor group red gang tailor came into being.
They chime in with the revolutionary party members, playing a prelude to the great changes in clothing.
If Sun Zhongshan is the founder and chief designer of the great changes in clothing, then the red gang is the chief construction team and the main force.
They jointly constructed, tried and improved, and made about four or five new styles of clothes in about 10 years. Later, they called it Zhongshan suit.
After many years of thought and improvement, Xinhai was finally established and disseminated rapidly after the first uprising. This is the Chinese tunic suit that people wear.
Many changes have taken place in clothing, such as the introduction and nationalization of Western-style clothes, the innovation of cheongsam and gowns, but the main theme is Chinese tunic suit.
The Chinese tunic suit is an important achievement of the revolution of 1911, a new classic of Chinese clothing, and a new milestone in the history of Chinese clothing.
Although it was constructed from the "western system" (Sun Zhongshan language), its soul and cultural connotation are entirely Chinese.
This is mainly reflected in six cultural identities: (1) erect lapel.
Looking at clothes, first of all, look at collar and sleeves. Therefore, there is a word "leader". The lapel collar is unique in the history of clothing. It is different from the large collar of western suit and the single collar of Japanese students.
The upright collar can be opened and closed according to different occasions, showing a flexible fresh air.
(two) the front is a pair of flaps, and the middle and the upper ones are straight and opposite, just like the central axis, the left and right flaps are symmetrical.
This psychological and physical isomorphism reflects the aesthetic characteristics of Chinese traditional culture, and produces a steady, neat and comfortable aesthetic pleasure.
The back is a whole piece (not divided in the middle), which embodies a unified and complete concept.
(three) straight sleeve sleeves are different from
Ancient
The wide sleeves are also different from the arrow sleeves of the Qing Dynasty, which are not only agile, suitable, but also beautiful.
The 3 buttons under the cuffs are very meaningful, reflecting the three people's principles established by Sun Zhongshan. They regard national independence, democratic political power and well-being of the people as a revolutionary program, and they are called "three principles".
(four) 5 buttons (7 grains, 6 grains, and later changed) on the front of the head are contained in the "five Republic" and "five power constitution".
(five) there are 4 pockets on the front, which promote the equality of profession, industry and commerce, and the importance of four dimensions of civilization.
(six) the pocket cover of the two pockets on top of the front is designed as a pen holder, which embodies Sun Zhongshan's thought of emphasizing the important role of intellectuals in the revolution.
These 6 cultural signs indicate that the Chinese tunic suit is Chinese.
It is a feudal old system with vigorous vitality, which has been widely recognized and loved by the whole nation, respected as "national costume" and replaced by the new system of democracy, equality and freedom. The feudal old system of "people divided into five equal parts and five colors" is immortal.
It has great influence not only in our country but also in the world, and is listed as one of the ten costumes that affect the century.
The Chinese tunic suit is constantly improving.
After the founding of new China, the Chinese tunic suit has also produced a new movement in its innovation.
At the two famous international conferences, Geneva conference and Bandung Conference in 50s of last century, Premier Zhou Enlai attended the Chinese delegation. All members were dressed in Zhongshan suit elaborately dressed by the red gang tailors.
Appearance
To form a bright scenery line, the media in various countries reported in succession, illustrations and illustrations, vigorously exaggerated.
The masterpiece of the new movement of the Chinese tunic suit is "Mao style clothing", which is a major innovation of the Chinese tunic suit, and the main body of innovation is still the red band tailor.
In the spring of 1956, more than 20 red gang shops in Shanghai moved to Beijing, capital of the capital.
To plan
Beijing Hongdu clothing store (company) was set up, and several experts entered the Zhongnanhai to make a costume for the leading comrades of the party and the state.
Red band famous teacher Wang Tingmiao and red gang successor Tian Atong have become experts in Chinese tunic suits. They have brewed a great innovation in the Chinese tunic suit.
Chairman Mao has measured the sizes of Mao Tse, and has studied the Chairman Mao's temperament, manners and personality, and his habit of being big, big and broad. He has always been in the habit of wearing Chinese tunic suits, and has integrated the unique skills accumulated by the gang for decades. He used the Zhongshan suit as his mother's mother and actively innovated. The main manifestations are: collar type: increasing the length, forming a new pointed collar, opening the neckline to 46 centimeters, raising the sleeves a bit, widening the front, a little longer in the back, a little concave in the middle waist, and a little bigger in the two pockets below. In the middle of the day in August 1956, Tian was led into Chairman Mao's study, which he used for decades in red gang.
After the trial, when Comrade Mao put it on, the comrades present felt that they were very good.
Since then, Chairman Mao has always loved this innovative Chinese tunic suit and has become a new classic of Zhongshan suit.
The costume of Chairman Mao in the Tiananmen city is painted by the painter according to this garment.
This type
clothing
Soon spread to foreign countries, the international clothing industry named it "Mao style clothing".
In some Western European countries, the clothing industry also uses "Mao style clothes" as the female parent to design and pform them into their fashionable men and women's new clothes.
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