The Problem Of Toxic Substances Residues In Textile And Clothing Highlights

At the end of 8 2011, Greenpeace announced the world. brand Investigation results of toxic and harmful substances in clothing. The report refers directly to Nike, Adidas, Puma, CONVERSE, KAPPA, H&M and other world-renowned clothing brands, and claims that its products contain nonylphenol polyoxyethylene ether (NPE) residues.

Since the Greenpeace report is aimed at the world's famous clothing brands, the quality of clothing has attracted everyone's attention again. As a matter of fact, as early as 2005, the European Union stipulated that the chemical additives added to its market for textile production should not exceed 1000 mg / kg of NPE. It is worthwhile for us to discuss how to abandon the NPE as soon as possible or how to shorten the time not to use NPE.

NPE churn over the global textile and garment industry

The Greenpeace released this report is the world's most famous NGO. organization One of. The so-called NGO refers to non-governmental organizations that are not regarded as profit oriented non-governmental organizations under the specific legal system, which are not regarded as government associations, associations, foundations, charitable trusts, Non-Profit Corporation or other legal persons. Its driving force is voluntary spirit, especially driven by economic interests. It is an important symbol of the rise of civil society.

In the report, the NPE detected in more than 2/3 famous brand clothing products is a substance called nonylphenol polyoxyethylene ether. It is understood that NPE in the textile industry are widely used in printing and dyeing, cleaning and other processes. Once NPE enters the environment, it will quickly break down into a stronger toxic environmental hormone, NP, that is, nonylphenol. NPE is the world's recognized environmental hormone. Studies have shown that even if the concentration of such substances is low, it is also very dangerous.

This time, Greenpeace purchased 78 samples of 15 clothing brands in 18 countries around the world, including sportswear, casual wear and footwear. Subsequently, the group sent these samples to a qualified third party Laboratory for testing. The results showed that more than 2/3 of the samples were detected to contain NPE. This also involves China's famous clothing enterprises.

In view of the popularity and influence of Greenpeace, the news is undoubtedly a blockbuster that has caused a great stir in the global textile and garment industry.

Through consulting relevant information, we learned that our country began to implement in 2005. Country In the mandatory standard "national textile product basic safety technical specification" (GB/T18401-2003), the pH value, formaldehyde, color fastness and decomposable carcinogenic aromatic amine dyes have been strictly limited. That is to say, if the clothing enterprises that are produced and sold in China strictly follow the standard operation, there will be no excess of harmful substances in the textile and clothing products entering the market terminal under normal circumstances.

It can be said that in this incident, there are many famous brands of textile and garment enterprises in the quality of clothing "a somersault". In fact, it is easy to find out when we look back on history. These years, because of the quality problems of textile and clothing products, the enterprises that are in difficulty or even go bankrupt and bankrupt are common occurrences.

But what we should pay attention to is that most of the previous textile and garment products failed to detect the main reason is unclear marking, fiber content is not accurate. This kind of situation is relative to the residual toxic substances in the product. Just imagine which consumer can remain calm and calm in the face of toxic textile and clothing products. If the confusion of fiber components is identified, it may also be due to negligence of the staff, intentionally or unintentionally. The consequences are not enough for consumers' health and even their life safety. But this kind of quality problem caused by the residue of toxic substances has to be "scary".

In the case of NPE, it stimulates the mimic estrogen and affects the sexual development of organisms, thus interfering with endocrine and toxic to the reproductive system. What is more frightening is that it will exist in the environment for a long time, and it can enter the food chain and gradually enlarge through the food chain.

In fact, the problem of clothing residues in China is not a new topic. In the past, we paid more attention to the traditional pollution problems such as formaldehyde exceeding standard and pH value exceeding standard. Environmental hormone pollution such as NPE is still at a relatively strange stage, especially for the general consumers. In the face of changing new problems and new problems in textile and garment product quality, how to further strengthen the formulation of relevant laws and regulations and grasp the relevant situations in time also needs joint efforts of all sectors in the industry.

Crisis management of Chinese and foreign brands in the face of NPE

However, after the NPE incident triggered by Greenpeace's report, it happened. The relevant textile and clothing brands related to China's market are quite different from those of foreign enterprises. This phenomenon can not but arouse our deeper thinking.

In late August 2011, when the NPE incident was made public, it was immediately aroused. domestic The attention of the media and some consumers. Among many brand clothing products sold in China's market, Li Ning Co, the most famous clothing company in China, is the fastest response company. It is also the first company to declare this NPE event.

In August 22nd and 24th, they issued a statement on the official website, which not only answered the focal point of whether the product conforms to the EU REACH standard, but also made a positive commitment to achieve environmentally friendly emissions in the supply chain. At the same time, a press conference was held in August 26th to further explain the environmental friendly emission pledge put forward before.

It is understood that the EU promulgated the "REACH regulations" in 2005. In its appendix 17, it explicitly states that the NPE substance added to the EU market for textile production is not more than 1000 mg / kg. Li Ning Co said that all products of the brand have been tested by the third party international testing organization. They are safe, non-toxic and can be sold in any EU country. Consumers can rest assured that they are wearing them.

In fact, from the current situation of the textile and garment industry. There are nearly 100 kinds of textile and dyeing auxiliaries, 15 thousand varieties, and nearly 10000 textile dyes. The world consumes nearly 5 million tons a year. Many of them contain or are used in the process of producing chemicals that are harmful to human health and ecological environment.

China's textile and garment industry related research institutions and production enterprises have been studying how to reduce toxic residues and environmental pollution. However, although such research has achieved some results, it is still a long way from zero pollution and zero residue targets. For NPE alone, the Chinese government also joined NPE and NP in the catalogue of toxic chemicals imported and exported by China in early 2011. However, there are no corresponding regulations on its use and emissions in China.

The Li Ning Co's positive response to the NPE incident has obviously put it in a favorable position. The company, through the way of journalists' meeting, is in line with the principle of spanparency and openness, so that the mass media and consumers can understand how NPE is produced and how much harm it has to the environment and human beings. At the same time, we also know the specific amount of NPE residue allowed in clothing products.

At the same time, let the relevant parties know that domestic brand clothing is strictly responsible for the control of similar residues in the safe range. In fact, publish some information and data that consumers are not familiar with in time. For an enterprise, it is absolutely a good thing, not only can eliminate the impact of the event itself on the enterprise. At the same time, it is very beneficial for the culture and brand building of an enterprise.

On the contrary, a series of famous clothing brand enterprises abroad, who are also at the cusp of the storm, almost invariably choose to remain silent about the incident. In fact, this is also the consistent method adopted by these international brand enterprises to Chinese consumers. They habitually believe that the relevant laws and regulations are not yet sound. At the same time, Chinese consumers' awareness of the quality of textile and clothing products is not high, and their awareness of safeguarding their rights is weak. Therefore, many international clothing brand enterprises have not taken seriously the NPE incident.

It was not until the early September 2011 that a well-known foreign Brand Company issued a statement on its website. It is said that its cooperation with Chinese companies is limited to tailoring and sewing of garments. Fabric The use and possible use of dyes, chemicals and water treatment technology. " And in a few hundred words, basically, the first half is explaining the long history of its brand. This is simply a statement of "ox head and wrong horse". You are talking about the quality of the product. It is talking to you about the history of the brand; you are talking about environmental pollution with it, and it is talking about tailoring and sewing with you. It is entirely a pose of "dead pigs are not afraid of boiling water".

However, such arrogant attitude of foreign brand clothing enterprises is indeed quite "emboldened". First of all, China has added NPE and NP to China's catalogue of toxic chemicals strictly restricting import and export. But this is only a ban on the export of clothing containing NPE, but it has not prohibited its production and sales in the domestic market. China has not issued any corresponding regulations on the use and discharge of NPE in China.

In addition, in the major media for brand clothing NPE problems stir up. Almost all the foreign brand clothing stores are still crowded at the door and business is booming. In front of a Adidas store in Chengdu, a huge advertising sign was launched. Promotional products were being promoted and discounted. The store was crowded with consumers, and the clerk said it was not clear about NPE pollution. However, in the corner of the shop, there is a brand "discount goods will not be returned".

Faced with such a hot buying situation, foreign brand clothing enterprises naturally have the arrogant "bottom air". Over the years, with the rapid development of China's economy, people's money has gradually increased. The purchasing power of Chinese consumers has given foreigners a lot of attention on many occasions, but the blindness of consumption has indeed made the "foreigners" an eye opener. However, we do not have any other way to catch up with consumers at the same time.

Chinese and foreign brand clothing enterprises face different attitudes towards NPE events, which not only let us see the disregard of foreign brands to Chinese consumers. At the same time, let us soberly realize the urgency to speed up the formulation of relevant laws and regulations.

The quality responsibility of garment enterprises from the perspective of NPE events

From the Greenpeace organization's "fashion poison: the global clothing brand's China water pollution survey" released. Although China's YOUNGOR, Lining and other brands of clothing products NPE content is less than the EU REACH stipulated by the 1000 mg / kg standard. However, the NPE content of clothing produced in other countries is far higher than that of the standard. Among them, a T - shirt produced by Philippines is more than 27000 mg / kg NPE. At present, no one can guarantee whether the brand clothing products produced by foreign enterprises have entered China's market.

At the same time, we have noticed that most of the brand clothing in this report is the production of sportswear enterprises. In China, the most popular sportswear is the majority of young students. However, it is regrettable that NPE's harm is precisely the most prominent role for young people. It is understood that NPE intake is closely related to precocious puberty. At present, experiments have shown that this NPE environmental hormone can lead to feminization of male fish. Scientists in the experiment on rats showed that the male testis produced by long term intake of NPE were much smaller than normal. This shows that the report of Greenpeace is not aimless.

However, it is regrettable that at the same time, the "trumpeter" of some garment enterprises immediately jumped out under the guise of "academic argument" and said that there was no direct experimental data to prove that it had an impact on human beings. Academic arguments are understandable, but the so-called experimental data should not and can never be obtained from the vast number of consumers. We are not Shennong, and have never tasted the pride of all herbs. We are not white mice and have no obligation and courage to participate in the experiment of clothing enterprises. If a scholar who is engaged in research is not responsible for academic security, even if his academic achievements are bigger, it is just a "academic scum".

In fact, NPE is a polymer, which is not a dangerous product in itself, but NPE can react to produce nonylphenol under certain conditions in the natural environment. It is an endocrine disruptor and carcinogen. It is called "environmental hormone" - once it is released into the environment, it will exist in the environment for a long time and can enter the food chain.

As we all know, at present, our consumers' attention to product quality is gradually improving. Especially for food safety is now the focus of attention of all parties, but for textile and clothing product quality, especially for its toxic and hazardous substances residue awareness is seriously insufficient.

Traditionally, toxic substances residues in textile and clothing products usually appear obvious symptoms such as rash and itching after consumers wear or use. However, NPE is a toxic substance that can be hidden for a long time without obvious symptoms. The vast majority of consumers in China do not understand, nor do they know the extent of their harm. According to a reporter's visit, it was learned that the NPE incident happened just at the moment when students were about to start school. On the basis of data from all sides, the sales volume of many famous clothing brands involved in this matter has not decreased, but on the contrary, it has increased. This phenomenon is certainly related to this particular time. When school starts, many parents come to buy sports clothes for their children. But the deep reason is that the vast majority of consumers are not concerned about the event itself. Almost all parents questioned said they had not heard about this, including most of them. Sale Personnel also know little about this incident.

In order to ensure the softness, smoothness, wrinkle free and ironing of finished products, clothing and other related enterprises will use nearly 20 kinds of auxiliaries such as dyes, softeners and refining agents in the processing of raw materials. Most of these auxiliaries contain NPE components, so the possibility of remaining NPE in the finished products is very large. So is there anything we can do to face NPE? In fact, the environmentally friendly and harmless "isomeric alcohol surfactants" can replace NPE, but the price of the substitute is higher than that of NPE. Moreover, the use of this kind of material is also very demanding for the technical level of the manufacturers. Most enterprises do not adopt this substitute because of the cost and convenience of operation.

This involves a deep-seated problem of brand clothing enterprises' social morality and product quality responsibility. As a first-line brand clothing, though because of its many years of accumulated brand appeal, strong publicity ability and long-term share of market share and other factors. Its clothing products were not affected in a short period of time. But in the long run, the casting of clothing brands is like building a building, which takes time to accumulate, but it does not take much time to destroy a building.

There is no doubt that the brand building can be destroyed in a short time, first of all, the quality of the product. When consumers are worried about spreading clothes, they can't afford to buy clothes. After buying a branded garment on the bottom of the book, turn to the Greenpeace report. It was found that the brand clothes that were bought at a high price were poisonous and of poor quality. It is not difficult to imagine how sad he was at that time. I'm afraid it will also be insulated from this brand clothing product.

Brand clothing enterprises have always been benchmarks in the industry, but they still need to shoulder responsibilities for employees, consumers, communities and environment while creating profits. This is not only a clothing enterprise is also our social responsibility of every enterprise nowadays. The NPE incident is undoubtedly a wake-up call for brand clothing enterprises. But at the same time, it also poses new problems for the relevant regulatory bodies in the textile and garment industry. Whether we can prepare for the rainy day and make relevant laws and regulations before the problems happen. How to protect the interests and safety of consumers is the primary issue we should consider.