Interview Designer Sarah&Nbsp: Burton: I Can'T Pretend To Be Macon.

No one expects that after the Lee Alexander McQueen, there will be those dark, extreme, even violent haze, detached from the Alexander McQueen conference of the show itself.

On this trip to Beijing, Alexander McQueen, as a gifted and talented brand, showed more steady and orderly steps.

Although only a few tens of seconds appeared before T's black screen, Sarah Burton in black dress is the ultimate direction of public exploration.

Little is known about her past. She is described as a shy, introverted lady.

She quickly turned to the backstage, leaving a figure for everyone to guess.

And when the black cloth was raised behind the scenes, the Alexander McQueen, who was under the control of the blonde lady, revealed its real and powerful side.

Lady without nail polish

Alexander McQueen is the first big show in Beijing (in fact, China). Chinese girls need to challenge not only the grand and beautiful, but also the dream dress, and the McQueen beautiful and hard to handle high-yielding heels.

Wearing shoes that do not belong to her is not easy to walk. Despite the trust, the organizers assigned a pair of shoes with high difficulty to the super model Ji Lili, and she fell down on the stage unexpectedly.

Ji Lili fell and got up again and won the applause.

It is also surprising that Sarah Burton has been described as a successor to a walking shoe wearing a genius.

Wearing giant's shoes and walking on a heavy load, how's her pace going?

Sarah Burton after sitting down, the first thing she noticed was her hands.

No nail polish was applied on the side of the fingers, and there were traces of daily work on both sides of the fingers.

This is a design director who can recognize an Alexande rMcQueen coat from 4 years ago. She even wears a black jacket several years ago.

In 1996, Saint Martin did not graduate from the school of design and art of Sarah, and McQueen joined the design team.

A year later, she became a full member and worked in this team all her life.

She is not enthusiastic about preaching herself. The only way she repeats herself to the media is "I'm a woman. I can't pretend to be Lee."

"McQueen women are very confident and strong, but they are also feminine and sometimes even romantic."

As for the dark side that always exists in McQueen design, she regards it as a Vitoria style expression.

If you have read the Gothic Novels of Vitoria, or have gone through the paintings of that period, you can understand that people's respect for "death" and the respect for "life" are the same.

"We are not a brand known for its beauty and beauty, but we are presenting both light and darkness.

Sometimes we are romantic and beautiful, but sometimes it reveals a dark side. This contrast is one of our characteristics.

Every coin has two sides. Not all stories have happy ending. We have to show two kinds of ending, which is very important for McQueen. "

So you can see in the 2011 autumn and winter series of Alexander McQueen, those long skirts made of black gauze with huge tails.

You can also see the accumulation of white fur, such as snow queen design.

If you turn your eyes farther away, in the 2012 spring and summer series, you will also create a sea world full of coral, shells and seaweed with the appearance of a suit of dress.

In the real world, all this brilliant beauty actually exists in the eternal darkness that never sees sunshine for a long time.

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I can no longer hide behind others.

"The difference between now and the past is that I am the terminal. I can no longer hide behind anyone. I now know how much pressure he was at that time."

When Lee's first series was released, Sarah Burton told WWD reporters that, like the way she coexisted with her husband as a photographer, she used to feel that she was protecting McQueen, and now McQueen is protecting her.

It is a great pressure to work in a style closer to artists.

But Sarah has always stressed the strength of the team. In the past, she was a member of the team, but now she was promoted to the stage as the design director of succession.

She has also considered rejecting the appointment. After years of working in the team, she has the same design approach as Lee.

The design of clothes does not mean that there is a so-called "aura" in the middle of the fantasy, but it tells a story through clothing.

Fashion is not just about the surface elements of styles, costumes, handicrafts, embroidery, but about how to innovate, how to base on the times and make them immortal.

She can continue to write Lee sentences with similar grammar, but when that time came, she did not know how to write.

Sarah, a shy character, has been motivated by Lee, which has always encouraged her to be more independent, though the final form is unanticipated.

Lee in Sarah's eyes is not a person living in the void. She recalls that in the spring and summer show in 2009, Lee took out a rabbit suit and decided to wear it to curtain call. Her face even flew a typical English red.

Lee is such a person who is not afraid to reveal the dark or even vulgar side of his character, which is obviously not the way of Sarah.

For those who question Sarah, 2012 spring and summer should be a season of letting them down.

Sarah is not one of those pioneered people.

But she pushed her brand creativity in her own way, as revealed by her simple hands.

She has poured out her expressive power in her own technology. The handmade clothes around the three-dimensional body are the perfect embodiment of the dream of high fashion.

In recent seasons, she has been using the powerful force of nature to resolve the dark elements that she may not be able to control.

The style before McQueen is like a string on a harp, but the tone is different but still in an atmosphere.

On our list of questions there is a part which is not passed, about the wedding dress she had designed for the princess of England.

This may be interpreted as something outside of the area she wishes to express, especially when you know that standing outside Westminster Abbey as one of the guests, Sarah's feelings are "all this is too untrue". She does not want to be the one who tripped at the scene of the fairy tale.

"Fashion is changing rapidly now. I also know that many people do not like the fashion that will soon be eliminated.

But I have a jacket in Vitoria style for more than 10 years, and I still wear it very well. I think it is very important for clothing and design to stand the test of time.

Compared to the glory of a particular time and occasion, Sarah has such an eternal concept of fashion.

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S=Sarah Burton

Reporter: after Lee's death, do you have much pressure as a design director?

S: pressure has always been there. Alexander is very creative and very stressful.

The difference between now and the past is that I am the end point. I can no longer hide behind anyone, so the pressure is pretty big.

But my team is great, and I get a lot of support.

I feel lucky that I can do what I want to do, and I have great resources and help.

Interviewer: what did you learn from Alexander?

S: everything.

His philosophy is that you have to master all the rules first and ultimately to break them.

I worked with him for a long time. He taught me how to sew, how to make clothes, how to hold a press conference and so on.

In many ways, he is more like an artist than a designer.

This is also a good place to learn and train.

I now know how much pressure he was at that time.

It's a great honor to be able to work with him.

Reporter: what is the spirit of McQueen brand? What kind of personality do you bring to this brand?

S: Lee and I have the same design method.

He wants to tell a story through clothing, which I will continue along with him.

Of course, my design will be more feminine, because I am a woman.

Fashion is not only about the details of style, dress, embroidery, handwork, but also about innovation, the times and how to make them immortal.

Reporter: are you used to business restrictions?

S: for example, when I came to Beijing, I found that people here like to buy valuable things, and what I like is just handwork.

I think we need to go deep into the world to understand it.

Happily, people really want to buy special things, such as all embroidered jackets and so on.

Reporter: what will McQueen become under your leadership?

S: we will retain the original features and advantages, such as tailoring, style and so on.

But maybe I will bring more femininity and softness.

Reporter: can you tell us how a new series was created?

S: I'm afraid we'll have to look at this season's look book.

This image is very noble, cold and powerful. We want to soften her up a bit.

All garments are made by hand and decorated with fur. In fact, these are all hand woven by a Italy woman, and they are carefully handled everywhere.

We want to present the royal family's noble temperament. For this reason, we also studied the dress of Queen Elizabeth I and studied the details of the costume.

Interviewer: which part of the design is most interesting to you?

S: for me, design is a complete process, every step is very important.

From the beginning of fabric research, it determines what kind of tailoring and style we use, and then decides the fabric in turn.

Reporter: where did your inspiration come from?

S: it can be anywhere.

For example, Lee once told me that he saw the drama "six people row" last night, saying that Joey's clothes were very interesting, which can be our inspiration, not be very elegant and serious, such as Shakespeare's drama.

Lee allows you to get inspiration from anywhere. He won't say, "let's make a series of feelings in 70s."

No matter what other designers are doing, he looks for inspiration from his own world.

Reporter: do you like traveling?

S: I like it very much, but I really couldn't get out of the office by traveling too much.

We have a lot of students from China who are very enthusiastic about fashion. They really want to be designers and attach great importance to details.

Chinese students are very interested in fashion, and hand work is also very good, but unfortunately, fewer and fewer skilled craftsmen.

Interviewer: how are you and your team working?

S: we have a large open studio. There are thousands of photos on the wall. They are all kinds of fabrics and materials. They are very visual. On the other hand, there are piles of shoes.

Our working environment is very organic and humane.

Everyone can find inspiration and help from other people.

From the perspective of women, we will consider how women find their own balance.

Each series is different.

Reporter: what kind of designer do you prefer to work for?

S: of course now.

Reporter: what are the most influential factors in your fashion career?

S: it should be Lee's work.

Sometimes you may get tired of being in a design studio for a long time, but he's great.

He can turn a pair of trousers into a jacket, turn a piece of old cloth on the ground into a skirt, and many of his designs are like magic, which is so great that he has the greatest influence on me.

Interviewer: do you have a designer you like?

S: I don't seem to have a favorite designer.

I like many people's works very much.

Like Nicolas Ghesqui re, Azzedine Alaa...

Reporter: if you can go back to the past, do you still design?

S: Yes, I don't know what else I can do.

I like fashion. I am very lucky to be in this business.

I have always loved fashion very much.

I have drawn some female portraits since childhood, and I have been very interested in fashion.

Reporter: about women, what do you think of women wearing McQueen?

S: she is very confident, very powerful, but also very feminine, and sometimes romantic.