70 Technological Processes From Animals To Fur Clothing

I. design

Want to make

First, we must design.

The design links include: discussion, hand drawing, making drawings, making billets, pushing plates, typesetting, cutting boards and so on.

discuss

When get

After an intention signal of the trend,

We began to enter the state, discussing the styles, styles, colors, and leather fabrics of various parts, capturing the style of social fashion, and following the trend of fashion, our designers are tireless, enthusiastic and dedicated.

This link is just about the general style and color.

The specific details still need to be completed in the hand drawn part.

Hand drawn

Hand drawing is designed according to the general plan discussed and delineated.

Put the whole thing in.

Sketch finish.

This step is the soul of the whole garment making process.

In the process of hand drawing, we must first look at the proportion of the entire garment. We must pay attention to details, such as the details of collar, pocket, waist, cuffs, etc. the details are sketched and the hand drawn drawings are finished.

Make drawings

The drawing is drawn up, and then computer technology is used to input the drawn design according to a certain proportion into the computer, and then typesetting is done. After the layout is finished, the drawings are output, the drawings are enlarged, printed on a larger piece of paper, and then the drawings are spread on white paper, which is also convenient for reading pictures behind.

Push plate

Pushing the plate is to organize and enlarge the pattern in the computer.

Here, we will design a good blueprint, scanning it to sweep it to the computer, this link should pay special attention to, the reader must follow the pattern line one by one to read the map, and the staff must be careful, once the drawings out of the problem, a lot of details will be damaged or misplaced, affecting the final garment.

When all images are read on a computer, it is easy to operate.

Next, push plate, arrange and put yards.

Typesetting cutting board

After finishing, the platoon will be placed in the platoon area, which can make rational use of paper and avoid waste of resources.

After finishing the operation, the cutting board should be cut. The operator simply collated the computer, and then began to cut the board. The cutting board was basically automatic and quickly cut.

Bloom

The cutting patterns used by the cutting machine are neat and accurate, and the handwriting is clear and the marking is very accurate.

The template is cut.

After the sample is ready, it is the raw material of the leather.

We all know that the skin itself has a special flavor. Many people worry that wearing leather clothing will be harmful to the body, so the safety issue is very critical.

But you may rest assured that the raw materials of leather clothing are checked by the National Institute of materials inspection. They have carried out strict quality inspection on leather materials to ensure the quality and safety of leather garments.

Well, the problem of environmental protection has been solved, and leather clothing should be made.

Here, we have chosen an example of a women's short leather jacket to give you a detailed description of its production principles.

Two. Fur making

The main steps of fur clothing are: skin matching, skin cutting, film inspection, pressing lining, lining cloth, sewing and so on.

Well, follow our technical director, Mr. Hu, to the workshop.

The first procedure is to match the skin.

Skin matching

Leather matching is based on the color and thickness of leather.

Pick out.

First spread the leather on the table, then put the leather head and leather tail in the middle, and put the head up and tail down. The spacing of each leather is about 3 centimeters, then touch the thickness of the leather and pick out the thick and consistent leather.

After that, we should match the color and choose a uniform color for one garment.

After matching, check carefully again to see if there are damaged parts on the leather surface. Use silver pens to mark them, such as rotten skin, oil scars, holes, black prints, belly skin (part of the skin of animal stomach), scraping part (scratched part when scraping skin), unequal skin base without glossiness, and for these damaged skin, they can be used in pastes and armpits.

According to the skin type, we can divide each skin into three parts, B and C, so as to reasonably discharge the template, so that we can make reasonable use of leather so as not to waste.

After the skin is finished, the skin should be cut immediately.

Skin cutting

In order to meet the consistency of leather appearance, attention should be paid to leather head when using.

The tail is cut downward and cut vertically.

Because the pverse cutting will affect the vertical feeling of the whole dress.

The front, back, sleeve and other parts of the garment can be cut off together.

At the same time, make sure that each piece of clothing is not lacking in corners and no defects.

Attention should be paid in the process of cutting.

It is elastic. When the skin piece is cut off, check it again with the template to see if the size is the same. The difference between the leather edge and the template edge can not exceed 0.3 centimeters. The length of the armpit pine bark can not exceed 18 centimeters, and the width should not exceed 3 centimeters.

When cutting, pay attention to the place where the waist is to be placed. These points are already painted when making the pattern, also for the convenience of sewing at the back, so that the leather clothing is symmetrical and neat.

Mark the collar to avoid confusion.

Each piece of clothing must be painted in a bit on the template and cut.

After the film is cut, check it out to see if there are more pieces.

After the test is finished, the leather is stacked neatly in order, bundled up with a rope and sent to the test piece below.

{page_break}

Test piece

The film inspecting member got the cut skin piece for inspection.

Open the garment piece, paving it onto the duplicate plate to test the film.

First, count the number of clothes.

It is requested that the size of the garment piece and the panel should not differ from 0.3cm, the angle should not exceed 0.2-0.3cm, the armpit pine bark should not exceed 3cm wide and 10cm long.

When testing, pay attention to the effect of the whole dress, and the overall effect of the clothing must be disposed of.

There is no corresponding mark in the inspection.

After checking, if there is no problem, it can be tied up and put under the pressure.

OK, let's go and have a look.

Pressing lining

Pressing lining is a thin lining on top of the garment piece, and the lining cloth is prepared in advance.

Not all parts need to be pressed, mainly on the edges of the small pieces and their sleeves.

Before pressing, it is necessary to clean the machine with cotton cloth.

Then turn on the switch for pressing the machine, adjust the temperature of the press machine to 100 C - 120 C, the maximum temperature should not exceed 130 C, and the general time is controlled in 7-10 seconds.

The running speed is controlled between 4-5 gears.

Here we can use the skin test first and then press the lining.

First of all, open the sheet of clothing and pave the lining cloth, then press the lining.

Note: do not allow lining particles to remain on the hot lining machine, causing damage to the clothing.

Then, according to the order of "front, back, sleeves, collar, noodles and other materials", do not pull hard when lining, and do not let the skin roll into the press.

When each part of the garment is finished, check whether there are more pieces in the garment piece, then put them into the basket and hand over to the next process.

Do cloth

The next thing I want to introduce to you is doing rib.

The dress is made of silk and silk.

。

The cloth has been cut out according to the model. We can directly sew it here.

We must be careful when sewing.

After finishing, it needs ironing.

When you iron, pay attention to the size of the steam and adjust the vapor according to the thickness of the fabric.

We put the iron to 2.5 - 3 gear here. The temperature is suitable for pressing.

Press the joint of the lining to form a reverse seam.

After careful inspection, you should carefully check the inside cloth. When checking, you should notice that there is no disability on the cloth. The seam of the front, back and sleeve of the rib should be accurate, flat and straight, and the stitches should be uniform.

When sewing, the alignment shear should be aligned, and the upper and lower layers can not be eaten.

Well, Li Bu did it.

Next is the sewing of leather clothing.

Sew

The leather garment we made mainly consists of four parts: front, back, sleeve and collar.

First, let's look at how the front film is finished.

Sewing of front pieces

The front part is mainly made up of five parts: the front shoulder piece, the front side piece, the front door piece, the over face piece and the pocket.

To facilitate sewing, first we draw a line on the edge of the garment, called the net line, as the sewing standard, and then stick the strip on the edge of the small piece of clothing and some parts that are not easy to be sewn, such as the edge of the collar and the corner of the other pieces.

The strips should be pasted in the side of the net line, so as to prevent seam deviation during sewing.

At the time of sewing, we should first use scissors to cut off the marking point of the front side piece, that is, the waist position. For our women's dress, the key is to collect the waist, only in this way can we show the waist shape of the fur coat.

After the point is cut, the sewing machine is used to sew it up.

When you finish sewing, you should glue the glue, press your fingers to the seam and hammer with the hammer. You see, knock a few times, does the seam appear even more smooth? Then prepare the front door piece, cut the collar according to the model line, and stitch the three large pieces together.

During the sewing process, we must ensure that the cutting place is smooth and the surface is sewn well.

Next is sticking pockets.

The pockets made of leather are varied, including single open pocket, double open pocket, slit pocket, pocket and stereo pocket.

Our leather coat is to pick up the pocket.

First of all, according to the sample of the pocket, make a good mark on the front piece, and then begin to paste the pocket. When you stick the pocket, you must pay attention to it. The clear line must be well balanced.

Next is the buttonhole, which can be considered the difficult part of the front part of this leather garment.

Put the eyelid under the front piece, follow the drawing line for two times, then cut the gap between the two lines with scissors, then turn the eyelids out of the cut opening, glue the glue, press the eyelids flat with the fingers, and then glue them up.

The two ends of the needle must be aligned with the tail pin.

Buttonholes are ready.

Also note: this leather coat has only two buttons. When you do buttonholes, you must grasp the spacing between two buttonholes.

After the completion of these small links, the sewing of the front pieces is completed.

OK, let's do the sewing of the back piece immediately.

Sewing of rear pieces

The rear part mainly includes the following parts: the back shoulder piece, the rear side piece, the rear upper piece, the back waist piece and the rear lower slice.

The production of the rear piece should be a little simpler than that of the front piece. It is necessary to pay attention to the upper part of the film after sewing.

The only difficult part of the rear piece is the pleat part, which is operated by a special plucking machine, with high speed and high quality.

You see, the wrinkles are ready.

The technical links are completed, and then the folds are stitched on the back pieces, and the whole back sheet is ready.

Sewing of sleeves and collar

The front and back parts are ready, and the sleeves and collar must be sewn.

First of all, the sleeves are relatively simple, mainly including three parts: big sleeves, small sleeves and cuffs.

When making sleeves, pay attention to the big sleeves under the bottom, the small sleeves are stitched on the top, and finally make a tube, glue the water on the seam and hammer with a hammer.

Then put the cuffs on.

According to the sample line of cuff, cut the cuff and open it, then turn it over and arrange it. Then use the template to make a spot on the cuff and give the sleeves two clear lines so that the cuffs are ready.

As a result, the sleeves will be completed. After the completion, we should pay attention to the open corners of cuffs and keep them symmetrical and smooth.

The sewing of the collar is the same as that of the other parts.

All right, the sleeves and collar are ready.

Whole suture

When they are ready, the whole piece will be stitched up.

The whole stitch (sometimes called a Jersey) is a combination of the front, back, sleeves, collar and cloth.

No more. Let's take a look. Our teacher has already started.

First, the front and back pieces are stitched together. When sewing, the main thing is to observe the counterpart of the cut. Only the cut is aligned, and the leather clothing can be done neatly and smoothly.

Such a vest type is completed; then the collar is up, the collar must be on the right side, so as not to affect the effect; then on the sleeves and upper sleeves, pay particular attention to the shoulders, must be smooth and soft, the sleeves are on the right side, the sleeves are the same length, the whole garment is made of the shell, and finally the cloth is stitched.

Because the cloth is silk cloth, not very good grasp, must pay more attention.

Look, the leather jacket is ready.

Post order ironing

After the leather coat is finished, it should be ironed. This link is essential.

First adjust the temperature of the iron to the 2-3.5 gear (different raw materials are controlled at different times), and start the ironing after constant temperature.

The skin, pockets and splicing of the front piece should be blanched (in order to avoid direct contact with irons and skin, a cloth can be placed on it.) the chest point of the female should be placed on the side fillet of the hot stool, and the iron should be ironed around the chest point to ensure that the chest is scalded.

Tiling the back piece on the hot stage, ironing the part of the joint and pressing it on the shoulders, and ensuring the smooth lines between the sleeves and the body.

The sleeves should be set on the hot stool for ironing.

After finishing the blanching, the finished leather coat is almost finished. After finishing, it can not be relaxed. It must be checked carefully.

Don't worry, there is still a button button, which needs to be done manually.

Manual (button)

For this dress, it is a button, and the buttons should be longer, because the leather is thicker than the fabric, and the buttons should be buckled under the skin so that the buttons are stronger and stronger.

Look, how serious the operation is for our teacher, in the twinkling of an eye, the button is nailed up.

Inspection

For a complete leather production process, it also includes an essential link -- inspection.

In order to ensure the quality of leather garments, we need to inspect them in accordance with the "sewing process requirements" and "product quality standards".

OK, let's go with our inspectors.

The contents of the inspection are as follows: the appearance of the whole leather coat should be harmonious and beautiful.

The size and color of the left and right pockets are the same; the pocket cloth has no cracks and no damage.

When the door is folded, the two sides should be consistent and the front door should not be shorter than the inside.

The left and right sleeves should be consistent in length and length, and check the turning points of the clothes to check if there is any leakage.

Nail fastener must be firm and beautiful.