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    The Difference Between Natural Cowhide And Artificial Leather Needs To Be Understood.

    2012/11/14 23:15:00 86

    Leather ShoesLeather ShoesArtificial Leather

    Dermis

    shoes

    It is made up of upper, bottom, outsole, heel, main heel, Baotou, hook heart, decoration and so on. It has adhesive, molding, vulcanizing, sewing shoes and travel shoes.

    Leatherwear

    That is, cowhide, sheepskin, pig skin, mule horse skin, camel skin, snake Python skin, shark skin and so on. Synthetic leather has synthetic leather, synthetic leather and regenerated leather.


    Leather fabric


    To identify leather shoes, first of all, check the upper leather material and determine the type of leather. If you use the "genuine leather" grain surface, the leather with original natural characteristics is not modified. The pores of the cowhide are small, irregular and even. The goat's fur is lined in rows like "tile shaped". The pigskin has three holes and a pile of characters. The yellow cattle skin has fine tissue fibers, rough buffalo skins and large pores.


      天然皮革熟制成革,牛皮一般在5~6mm厚,制鞋要用片皮機分成兩層,表層是粒面層,組織纖維細致緊密,光滑美觀,強度,耐磨性都好;里層是絨面層,纖維粗,間隙大,表面有絨毛.頭層革比二層革表面光滑平展,二層革略顯粗糙.二層革經涂飾,移膜或貼膜可使表面 看不出粗糙,但移膜革耐低溫性差,溫度低時易發生折皺.牛皮二層革平展,壓花后無明顯 缺陷,而豬皮二層革往往隱約可見三個一堆的毛孔眼,該處光澤發暗.區分修面革和正面革 時要注意,修面革是破壞了原有的粒面層,然后壓的花紋,花紋種類可仿牛,羊,豬皮等, 但花紋無毛孔眼,花紋是浮在皮表層上,而正面革毛孔眼是存在的,仔細觀察可以辨認出來。


      

    Artificial leather

    是在布底基上涂飾了一層有機材料,分薄(仿羊革),厚(上涂發泡有機材料,再壓上 花紋)兩型,多用于女鞋,童鞋.合成革是用有機纖維壓制后,加上涂飾層壓花后制成的鞋面革,多用于涼鞋.再生革是將皮渣,皮纖維磨碎,經高壓用粘合劑粘合,形成片狀,然后 經片皮機片到需要厚度,再進行涂飾,使它具有一定皮革特性,大量用于箱包皮件,少量用 來制鞋.區別真皮和人造材料時先看外觀,真皮無底基,人造材料有底基.再用手摸,人造 材料塑料感非常強,光澤亮,冬天手摸有冷涼感,真皮光滑手摸無冷涼感.用拇指壓成品鞋 前面較軟部分,在拇指周圍真皮會出現許多碎小,均勻花紋,拇指抬開,花紋消失;而人造 材料可能沒有花紋,也可能會出現粗大紋路,拇指抬開,花紋并不消失,說明材料表面的粒 面層和下面的網狀層已經脫開了,用這種面料制成的皮鞋不合格。

    .


    Identification of leather shoes or artificial leather shoes can also observe the cross section of the upper leather. The cross section of the leather shoes is irregular fibers. After scraping the broken leather fibers with fingernails, there is no obvious change in the cross section. For the leather shoes, different parts of the texture are irregular, nose smell and smell, and the artificial leather is sniffed with plastic or rubber flavour. The texture rules of all parts are consistent.


    Two. Leather shoes, shoes, hooks and shoes.


    Leather and shoes are made of natural leather and cotton cloth, and shoes are made of low-grade products. The bottom of the shoe is the bottom of the pond. When the inspection is done, the shoes will be folded to 90 degrees. They can not be cracked. Some of the fake and inferior shoes are not qualified. The bottom of the recycled leather pond and the cardboard non-woven fabric pond are low. The latex content of the materials is low, and the sweat is softened. The steel plate of the sole of the shoe, a bridge between the bottom and the outsole, may be worn out of the bottom of the pond and hurt the sole of the foot. The shoe lining of leather shoes is to prevent extended deformation and improve the foot touch.


    The length of the hook, the width, the elastic modulus and so on are all stipulated by the national standard after the deformation of the external force. There must be a certain degree of elasticity and steel property. The material must be made of 65 manganese steel, and the elastic limit load is not less than 290N.


    Check the upper sewn suture and upper, when the soles are glued together, see if there is any breakage and stitching is regular and neat. For the adhesive shoes, the bonding parts of the shoe bottom should be glued and leveled without a groove, without any cracks and glue opening. Adhesive shoes peel strength men's shoes 54N/cm, women's shoes 40 ~ 49N/cm, the initial appearance of glue on the test machine (that is, the deformation of external joints, the deformation of the adhesive joints at the outsides), that is, unqualified.


    Three, leather shoes soles


    The leather sole is made of rubber, imitation leather, plastic, rubber and plastic sole. The rubber soles are soft, elastic, skid resistant, wearable, heat-resistant, cold resistant and slightly heavier. The imitation leather is light, stiff, wearable and flexural, but it has poor elasticity and no skid resistance. The plastic bottom is wear-resistant, the appearance is smooth and smooth, the color is bright, the skid resistance is not cold, and the cold resistance is poor. The rubber and plastic sole has the advantages of two kinds of rubber, plastic, wear-resisting, good elasticity and soft. It is the first choice for the middle and high grade shoes.


      真皮皮鞋的外底前腳掌著力部分厚度標準,要求應達到外底總厚度的2/3,檢驗時要同時計算外底 著力部分內外兩種花紋深度相加起來,不得超過外底總厚度的1/3,如果達不到這一條標準 ,可以判定偽劣鞋.除厚度外,鞋底還應有耐折,耐磨性能.由于鞋底一般是由高分子材料 制成,檢驗時根據國家標準在專用耐折試驗機上進行耐折性能測試,鞋底受到一定頻率,一 定角度,一定次數屈折后,按不同品種,鞋底裂開長度不大于40,15,12mm.鞋底耐磨性檢 驗根據國家標準,在專用耐磨試驗儀上進行,使被檢鞋底與一個標準磨輪接觸,并受到一定壓力,磨輪以一定速度旋轉,經一定磨損時間,按不同品種,磨痕長度不大于16,12,10mm 為合格.對旅游鞋的外中底和外底之間要求一定粘合強度,測試時在萬能材料試驗機或拉力 試驗機上進行,粘合強度不小于20N/cm為合格。


    Four. Leather shoes heel.


    When the shoes are fixed, they will be clamped and pulled to see how much pulling force can be taken. The standard of the heel of leather shoes is that when the visual inspection is done, break the heel with the hands and observe the deformation of the mouth (the outer part and the connecting part of the heel). If the deformation is large, the heel may have problems, and then remove the insole. If the heel is installed above.4cm, the high heel must be fixed with a wooden screw. The whole fastness of the heel depends on the internal wooden screws and several wooden nails.


    Five, leather shoes shape


    The left and right sides should be swaying. The size of the inside and outside edges of the sole should be different from that of the table. The shoe should be straight and straight. It should not be inclined to the outside or inside. Third, look at the upper part of the shoe from the upside down, look at the symmetry of the upper part and the deformation of the shoe, and take the straight line between the tip of the shoe and the middle point of the heel as the symmetrical axis. See whether the components on the vamp are right, and the symmetry between the inside and outside is not symmetrical. Place your shoes on the counter or glass panel at random to see if the shoes are stable. When shoes are placed on the table, they should be stopped immediately.


    The appearance inspection of shoes should also pay attention to the fact that the face is not allowed to have obvious injuries, loose surfaces, coating layers, shedding, cracking and discoloration. The overall structure of shoes should be straight and flat, and the shoes should not be exposed. The same parts of the two shoes should be symmetrical. The hardness, color and structure of the shoes should be consistent. The length of the front shoe and the height of the back should not be significantly different.


    Six. Hand test dermis

    leather shoes


      用手觸摸鞋的內腔,看鞋里是否有凹凸不平現象.凡是能接觸腳的地方不能凹凸不平,不然腳會起泡,且一般情況下鞋內必須有鞋墊.鞋墊可以保持鞋內清潔,且覆蓋內底上極個別不 平釘眼.一般情況下,男鞋為半截鞋墊,女鞋應是整體鞋墊.再用手掐鞋幫后跟部位,看是否硬挺而有彈性,不能過硬,否則傷及腳踝.鞋的內底是鞋的軀干與骨架,用力按壓腰當內 底,以紋絲不動為好.用食指的指尖朝下接觸鞋的內底,讓食指靠近外踝部的鞋幫,看食指 的第二指關節線是否與外踝幫高度一致.一般生活用鞋,社交禮儀鞋,時裝鞋以略高于食指 第二指關節線為好;低腰運動鞋和休閑鞋的后幫上均為軟口的結構,其外 踝幫高可以略高于 食指第二指關節線。


    Use the middle finger tip to insert the front toe sole to see if the height is suitable. When the tip of the shoe tip is just enough for the middle finger to indicate the thickness of the belly, it indicates that the front toe of the shoe tip is being qualified. When the toe of the shoe tip is too large, the smoothness decreases; after an hour, the shoe is easily deformed and the foot is easily fatigued.

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