Fashion Lingerie Classic Design Elements Lace
< p > < strong > lace history < /strong > < /p >
< p > lace industry originated in a mountainous area of France, and later spread to some European countries and regions such as Belgium and Italy. At that time, it was divided into two categories: woven lace and knitting lace.
By sixteenth Century, with the popularity of clothing and apparel, lace became the ornament of aristocratic costumes because of its complex technology and beautiful appearance. It was popular in the upper class of Europe, and its price could be compared with the gold at that time.
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< p > ancient China called lace as "tapes", "group training", "flower tapes" and "Liang Zi", which have been used for more than two thousand years in our country's lace history.
The most widely used period of lace was mainly in the middle and late Qing Dynasty, and all kinds of lace came into being, which played a great role in the change of clothing styles.
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< p > Modern Lace form, also known as lace, was introduced into the coastal areas of Yantai, Shanghai, Wenzhou, Shantou and so on by missionaries by the missionaries in France, Italy and China. The lace production of the folk has undergone major changes. Although the lace production in China is later than that in Europe, it has developed rapidly, forming a larger scale of production and producing a number of famous brand products.
Lace commonly used raw materials are silk, cotton velvet, nylon yarn, polyester filament, and sometimes add gold and silver yarn to improve the elegance and gorgeous lace effect.
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< p > < strong > classification of lace > /strong > /p >
< p > < strong > 1, weaving lace < /strong > < /p >
< p > weaving lace refers to Lewis lace (Leavers), also known as "a href=" http://www.91se91.com/news/index_c.asp "li ba lace" /a ", Lewis lace production process is the oldest, is the classic and noble representatives, is the real Calais lace, for hundreds of years to manually operate equipment production, followed by part of the machine to imitate manual operation procedures instead.
Lewis lace production requires workers to have high technical quality and experience.
The number of people taking part in production is 5 times more than that of raschel lace.
The design process of the flower pattern is very complicated. For example, the consistency and consistency of yarn tension require high expertise and skills to complete.
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< p > features: Lewis lace appearance can show a good sense of three-dimensional and delicate, flower pattern is fine, lace edge is clear, compared with raschel lace, it has better softness, and because of its high technical difficulty and beautiful and elegant products, it is no match for other floral edges, so it has the reputation of "lace Queen".
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< p > material: many kinds of lines can be used for Lewis lace, most commonly used nylon (polyamide), polyester, cotton, spandex, rayon and so on.
However, due to machine structure and production requirements, no matter which line must be twisted, it can be used at least 300 twists / meters.
The roughness of the line is mainly 30 and 12O0D.
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< p > < strong > two, woven lace < /strong > < /p >.
< p > woven lace refers to warp knitted lace, that is, raschel lace, including traditional raschel lace (Rachel), electronic jacquard raschel lace (Jacquard tronic), electronic yarn raschel lace (Textronic).
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< p > raschel lace is produced by a warp knitting machine. The maximum number of Raschel is 78 bars. The more the comb, the larger the space of design.
In the process of flower production, the hook control principle of mechanical control is achieved by the movement of chain plates, and it can use more than 10000 pattern lines at most.
The raschel lace machine adopts advanced computer control, and enters the motion control program < a href= "http://www.91se91.com/news/index_f.asp" > /a >. It can be safely and rapidly produced with only a few people to adjust, and equipped with automatic monitoring device for disconnection, which greatly reduces manpower input.
The lace we use now is generally woven.
Woven lace is woven by a jacquard mechanism to control warp threads and weft threads.
It can be woven at a time or at a time.
The width of the lace is generally 0.3 cm to 17 cm.
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< p > electronic jacquard raschel lace uses electronic control Raschel production equipment, its jacquard device makes the lace bottom net variety, has the plain pattern, the twill, the satin, the honeycomb, the small pattern and so on is vivid and rich.
Designers use special CAD system to pform flower pattern design information into warp knitting machine readable machine information, store it in disk, and insert the disk into the machine to produce.
Progressive technology not only expands the space of flower design, but also shortens the distance between art design and actual production, and the principle of producing electronic gauze raschel lace is the same as that of producing electronic jacquard raschel lace machine, but it has more than one pressing plate. The lace produced has the effect of embroidered lace. Its characteristics are concave and convex three-dimensional sense, but it is restricted by machine, the pattern is more smooth, without the three-dimensional feeling of riba lace, but it is most close to Lewis lace.
In addition, its production efficiency is high, and the demand for raw materials is also wide, which has become a powerful factor in Raschel's growing popularity.
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< p > material: like lira lace, raschel lace can also use many kinds of materials, and the twisting line can also be used.
However, because the speed of the machine is very high, the use of twist free yarn will produce more wool flowers, which will adversely affect the performance and normal operation of the machine for a long time.
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< p > < strong > three, < a href= > http://www.91se91.com/news/index_h.asp > embroidery > /a > lace < /strong > /p >
< p > automatic embroidery machine embroidery is adopted, that is, under the control of jacquard mechanism, a striped pattern is obtained on the grey cloth.
It includes water soluble embroidery lace, bottom cloth embroidery lace and so on.
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< p style= "text-align: left >" embroidery sewing machine operation principle, from the face line and bottom line mutual lock on the base cloth embroidery, and the robot is divided into two segments (now horizontal), and can produce two batches of lace at the same time, each segment has 524 needles embroidered needles, corresponding to 524 bottom shuttle, and the production number can be adjusted according to the distance between flowers.
There are two kinds of embroidery machines in use now, one is Ping Gang machine, the other two are machine control and computer control. The Ping Gang machine can only produce monochrome lace and interactive lace, and the other is Sura machine, which can produce all kinds of embroidery lace.
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< p > embroidery lace, divided into color change machine lace and inter change machine lace.
Color change is commonly referred to as double colored lace or yarn, and inter change is commonly known as yarns or alternately.
The difference between Color change and inter change is that the color of the same yarn in the same place of the circular pattern is the same as that of the yarn. The flower pattern needs the relative position of every cycle and only the same color matching person belongs to the yarn. In addition, there are also inter change with color change, that is, the change of yarn and yarn.
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< p > features: embroidered lace has many floral patterns, exquisite embroidery, uniform and uniform appearance, vivid image, artistic sense and three-dimensional sense.
The appearance can perfectly show the design style, the color is rich, the stitch method is varied, and it can freely adjust the complexity and meticulous degree of the flower pattern, and satisfy the customer's demand for flower pattern and cost to the maximum.
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< p > material: embroidery lace is made up of three parts, including the watch line, namely the pattern, the bottom line and the base cloth.
All kinds of raw materials are used as embroidery base cloth, which can be changed according to the different lace types. But there are many thin fabrics, such as net yarn cotton and artificial cotton fabric.
The yarn is usually used for rayon, nylon, etc. most of the bottom line is cotton.
Water soluble embroidery lace is embroidered directly on nonwovens.
Using viscose filament as embroidery thread, after the embroidery machine is finished, the water soluble nonwoven bottom cloth is dissolved by hot water treatment, leaving a three-dimensional lace.
The embroidery machine is equipped with 4 color automatic color selection and color changing device, which can carry out single color embroidery and multicolor embroidery.
The average length of flowers can reach 65 cm, and the width of lace is more than 1 cm.
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< p > < strong > four, plaited lace < /strong > < /p >
< p > knitting lace, also known as line lace, refers to the lace made by knitting.
It is compatible with the characteristics of crochet and knitting.
The knitting lace is made of torque lace machine and used to be knitted by hand.
There are two kinds of mechanical knitting and manual knitting.
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< p > characteristics: this kind of product has the characteristics of soft texture, multiple netting, and many kinds of flowers. But the lace is not as neat as machine woven lace, and its production efficiency is low.
Generally, the more spindles, the larger the type of knitting, the wider the lace.
The width of the lace varies from 1 cm to 6 cm.
The lace is mainly made of single color. The shape is mainly made of banded teeth. The shape of the lace is changed by the size of the edge, the degree of bending and the interval. The finished products are porous and loose, and the varieties have greater limitations.
The pattern can be designed and manufactured by computer, and then imported into looms to produce new patterns.
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