Basic Knowledge Of Garment Making Technology

1、 Garment production clothing Pattern Design

　　 clothing design The renderings are converted into wool samples (production patterns) for garment production from the plan structure drawings, that is, the design renderings - determine the shape and data - structure decomposition sketches - determine the drawing specification values of the main parts - plan structure drawings - clean samples - wool samples. In such a pattern design process, pattern designers must consider how to set up a better set of production patterns, so as to improve the quality of clothing, reduce costs and improve efficiency, which is different from ordinary pattern making (for personal and customized clothing).

1. The sample shall set out all seam allowances according to the designed sewing process. In addition to the existing technical parameters and marks on the clean sample, the sewing method and requirements shall be noted; Ironing position and method; The process sequence is required, and the production pattern used to layout, determine the layout method and accurate material consumption must have the following rechecks: (take men's shirts as an example)

① Recheck the set size. Measure all parts of the pattern according to the customer or the given size.

② Recheck the conformity of each suture. The connection between the various parts of the clothing and the production pattern of men's shirts need to check whether the armhole arc and the neckline arc are smooth after the pattern is made; Check whether the hem and cuff arc of the shirt are smooth; Check whether the length of armhole curve and armhole curve are equal; Check whether the length of the neckline arc and the neckline are equal; Check whether the cuff curve of the sleeve body (except for the pleats) and the sleeve width are equal; Check whether the front and rear side seams are equal in length.

③ Review of each alignment mark. Men's shirts have fold marks and button door marks on the front placket; The alignment mark of the armhole curve of the shirt body and the sleeve hill curve of the sleeve; Button door mark of collar and alignment mark with front center line; The welt fold mark of the exposed patch pocket; The pleat mark on the cuff line of the sleeve body.

④ Review the fabric lines. inspect cloth The thread direction used in cutting.

⑤ Review of seam allowance. Men's shirts Except for the seam allowance (seam allowance) of lapel patch and exposed patch pocket, the rest of production paper samples are 1cm seam allowance.

⑥ Review the total amount of paper samples. There are 11 patterns for men's shirts (including bottom collar and top collar).

⑦ Review whether all data are complete. Including style name, cutting quantity, size, cutting name, etc.

2. The rechecked pattern is cut to make clothes, which is used to check whether the pattern meets the design intent. This pattern is called "head board". The unconfirmed pattern is modified, adjusted or even redesigned, and then rechecked to become "duplicate board" to make clothes, which is finally confirmed as the garment production pattern.

2、 The pattern design needs to consider the fabric of actual garment production, the adopted process structure, garment style and quality requirements.

In the process of clothing pattern design, due to different clothing styles; The difference of fabric structure and thickness; Limitations on garment manufacturing and machine types; The difference in the quality and organizational structure of clothing will affect the actual production, so the production of clothing structural pattern also has different requirements.

1. Basis Clothing fabric Different tissues are tight, and different requirements of different suture methods on seam allowance are determined.

① According to the thickness of the cloth, three kinds of seam setting amount can be divided: thin, medium and thick. The seam setting amount of clothing pattern of thin fabric is generally 0 cm and 8 cm, that of medium fabric is 1 cm, and that of thick fabric is 1 cm and 5 cm.

② The seam should be narrow where the arc of the seam is large, such as armhole, neckline and so on. Because the arc is too large, the seam allowance will produce wrinkles. However, the seam design of the production pattern should be as neat and uniform as possible, which is conducive to improving production efficiency and product quality standards. Therefore, the seam setting of the shirt collar and neckline is still 1cm, After sewing, uniformly trim the neckline to 0 cm and 5 cm, which can not only make the circular part of the neckline smooth, but also avoid insufficient seam allowance due to fabric separation. The seam should be wider where the garment is added, such as the seam on the back of the trousers. The seam allowance on the back midline is 2 cm or 5 cm, and the front and back side seams on the upper body can be 1 cm or 5 cm, which can not only improve the sales of the product but also meet the psychological requirements of customers.

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③ Different sewing methods have different requirements for the amount of additional sewing. For example, flat sewing is the most commonly used and simple sewing method, and the amount of seam setting is generally 0, 8~1, and 2 cm. For some loose fabrics that are easy to loose edges, the seam allowance is usually 1 cm after sewing; After sewing, the seam allowance is usually divided into 1 cm and 2 cm. There are generally two kinds of sewing methods for hem (hem, cuffs, trouser cuffs, etc.) of clothing: one is hem sewing after sewing, and the other is direct hem sewing. The additional seam of the hem seam is the required width of the hem. If it is a flat hem style, it is generally 2~2 cm for summer tops, 2~5 cm for winter clothes, and 3~4 cm for pants and suits, which is conducive to the sag and stability of pants and skirts; If the hems and cuffs with radian shape are generally 0, 5~1cm, and the direct hem seam needs to add 0, 8~1cm fold in on this basis. For the edges of large round hem shirts, flared skirts, round platform skirts, etc., the hem should be made as narrow as possible. Rolling up the seam allowance for sewing is called hem seam, and the rolled width is 0, 3~0, 5cm, Therefore, the seam allowance added on this side is 0, 5~1cm. If it is very thin and has a strong organizational structure, it can be considered to directly lock the bead as a closing edge or as a decoration. The common sewing method for the side seam, inside seam and back head butt joint of jeans is the overlock method. The advantage of this overlock method is strong durability. The added seam allowance needs to pay attention to whether the front or back cover is the front, the back cover is the head or the head cover is the back. Generally, the seam allowance is 1 cm or 2 cm, but the actual production seam allowance is different, Huizhou Dajin Co., Ltd. of Hong Kong Sunrise Group has been producing jeans for a long time, and the practice has obtained a better method: the seam allowance of the quilt cut is 0 cm and 6 cm, and the other cut is 1 cm and 6 cm. Because the specified size is calculated from the seam edge, the accuracy and uniformity of the size will not be affected after the finished product is completed.

2. Different garment production patterns are determined according to different structure and production effects.

① Because different structural sewing processes will affect the quality and layout of garment production, thus affecting the cost of garment production, it is very important to determine the pattern of garment production. For example, for the front placket opening with the same appearance (front placket opening of men's shirt), there are four structural methods, and different garment production patterns can be determined according to different needs: if the structural sewing process of A (single-layer open placket) and C (double-layer open placket) is selected, the product quality is easy to control, but the structure of C will produce a garment that is too thick, so thick fabrics are not suitable for use; If the sewing process of A and B structures is selected, the fabric can be saved, but the thickness of the front placket of B structures will be uneven; If D structure sewing process is selected, the time of cutting and sewing process can be reduced and the efficiency can be improved, but this method can only be used when the cloth is not divided into bottom and surface. In general, Type A structure is the most commonly used structure in general garment production, which can save cloth, have better quality, and not be limited by the type of cloth.

② The placket sticker of the placket opening can be divided into additional placket and original placket. The structure of original placket is wasteful of cloth, but the sewing process is simple and convenient; The structure with additional placket has one more process in the sewing process, but it is better to save cloth when arranging materials. The pattern maker needs to make a balanced choice when drawing and determine the method suitable for his own company's conditions. For some plackets similar to spoon collar or overcoat style, the additional placket structure can also be considered to cut and barge to facilitate the folding and layout in the middle of the back, so as to save cloth.

③ The purpose of pattern engineering is to modify some pattern structures to beautify the human body, improve quality, reduce the handling time of workers, facilitate layout, and save materials. Some structures will increase the use of materials during production. For example, the sword shaped sleeve slits of men's shirts will be stolen from the invisible layer of the large sleeve slits when making patterns, so that the next layer can be avoided from being exposed in the open line, improving product quality, and saving materials; Some structures appear unsightly after wearing the finished product, and the pattern needs to be properly modified. For example, the pattern of the inner and outer I-shaped pleated skirt will be emptied when making its production pattern, which can not only reduce the thickness to beautify the human body, but also save cloth and other benefits. Some structures will increase the handling time of workers and reduce the quality during production, and these production patterns will be modified,

Make it possible to reduce the above problems. For example, for some women with a large difference in waist and hip circumference, when making pants structures (especially jeans), according to the structural principle, the front side seam radian will be bent, and the back side seam radian will be straight, which will increase the sewing handling time during the sewing process. Add an appropriate size to the front side waist point of the pattern, and subtract the corresponding size from the back side waist point, The arc of both sides of the seam is relatively close, which can make production more convenient and reduce the time of sewing handle.