The Dilemma Faced By Luxury Designer

The belief that customers are God is a change in the luxury industry. In this industry, it seems that the creative director is God. Look at all the classic luxury goods that have been bought everywhere, and behind them there is a loud designer name. Because they not only design products, but also mold the brand's temperament and charm more.

However, even the best. Designer They are also faced with various perplexities. Mario Boselli, chairman of the Italy Fashion Association, told reporters that being a creative director for the luxury group's brand is a tremendous task that only talent can do. Because the clothing of men and women under the brand of luxury brands needs 8 exhibitions in spring and summer, autumn and winter, early spring and early autumn. This means that every two months, a designer will have an inspiration that can not be lost. The pressure is obvious.

　　 Little brother: leaving is for better development.

Any media will take stock of 2013 of the big events in the fashion industry. There will be Marc Jacobs's farewell to Louis Vuitton as the creative director.

As the hottest designer in today's fashion industry, Marc Jacobs has been known as "little horse elder brother" in the industry.

In 1997, Marc Jacobs from New York was selected as the artistic director of the oldest French luxury LV. Before he joined, although LV had opened more than 100 stores in the world, it was known as a French aristocratic brand, but LV was only a traditional French brand selling leather products to the world. In the autumn and winter fashion week in 1998, Marc Jacobs released the first series of women's garments that he designed for LV. This series of women's clothing is very simple and extremely popular, and has been widely praised by fashion media and commentators. Therefore, anecdotal commentaries believe that it is precisely because of the women's clothing line created by Marc Jacobs for LV that LV has gradually transformed into a fashion company.

When the old aristocrats glowing for the second spring, the little brother himself was not idle.

With the help of his family, he began to create the same personal clothing brand Marc Jacobs and the sub line brand Marc by Marc Jacobs. Although the development of the sub card is not the creation of Marc Jacobs, he is better at business. According to relevant media reports, in 2012, the sales revenue of its main brand and Deputy brand reached US $1 billion, and has entered the sales scale of the first-rate luxury brand.

When your wings are full, you must fly solo.

At present, the personal brand of pomago Marc Jacobs Although it still belongs to the LVMH group, he is actively working on the listing of personal brands. Obviously, his ambition is much more than that. In the future, he will have to build a bigger Empire and build his own stronger fashion empire.

　　 Coach former design director: it's difficult to step on two boats.

Talented people like pompco are rare in the fashion world. The choice of more designers is to abandon their big cards and devote themselves to their brand development.

In the summer of 2013, Reed Krakoff, who was Coach's design director for many years, announced his resignation. His name brand was also sold back to the designer herself by Coach, which is a symbolic $10.

Reed Krakoff, which joined Coach in 1996, has always been Fashion industry The "working emperor" only has 2010~2012 income of up to US $60 million over the past three years, including wages, bonuses, stock and options income. During his reign, Coach's annual sales increased from $500 million to nearly $5 billion.

In 2008, Coach launched a new high-end product line to promote design innovation. In 2010, it developed into a new brand named Reed, Krakoff, which is named "new American luxury". However, the new product has not been profitable in the market and has been losing money for several consecutive years.

According to the transaction concluded by Coach and Reed Krakoff, although the price of Reed Krakoff's redemption of personal brand is a symbolic $10, Reed Krakoff will provide a loan support of 20 million US dollars for two years without obtaining external equity investment. At the cost, Krakoff will abandon the $3 million "breakup fee" from Coach and pay Coach $3 million a month from August 2013 until the transfer transaction is completed or terminated.

It is not easy to think that Reed Krakoff's personal brand should be profitable. When Michael Kors, who was known as a "genius", left Celine alone after a single flight, it worked hard to manage its personal brand for 8 years before finding the venture capital and successfully listing at the end of 2011. Since he founded his personal brand in 1981 and went public in 2011, he has worked hard for 30 years.

　　 Luxury brand: forever young Chinese

The meaning of designers to luxury goods is self-evident. Luxury has never ceased to pursue designers.

In order to better retain talents and prevent designers from becoming famous, they began to develop the phenomenon of individual brand solo. At present, the strategy adopted by luxury giants is to start buying their personal brands when designers are young.

Because the cost of creating personal brand is very high, not every designer can find Hongkong richest Silas Chou and Canadian businessman Lawrence Stroll as Michael Kors. Many young designers need the luxury group to provide development funds for their personal brands. Many young designers are also willing to sell their personal brands to their bosses. So before these young designers were able to build up their careers, luxury goods groups were attracting them to be a creative director or artistic director of a brand, while investing in their personal brands. It's a long term business for the wily luxury brands.

Take the LVMH luxury group as an example, the group launches a plan for the new generation of net Luo, the establishment of the LVMH Young Fashion Designer Award. Designers who are below the age of 40, who have shown or sold at least two seasons ready-made garments can join the competition of LVMH Young Fashion Designer Award. The winner of the LVMH Young Fashion Designer Award will win the award of 300 thousand euros, and will receive professional guidance from LVMH group mentors to help him develop his personal brand. For young designers, they can get personal guidance from Louis Vuitton, Dior, Celine, Givenchy, Kenzo and other brand creative directors. They should be their dream career opportunities.

At present, the first LVMH Young Fashion Designer Award has been accepted publicly, and the top jury will select the ultimate winner from 10 candidates. The winners will be announced in May 2014.

When he was young, he was forced to buy his whole life by his family or did he continue to work hard on his personal brand? Fish and bear paws, perhaps this is the eternal problem of designer.