APEC Clothing Core Design Team Tells You The Secret.
Compared with the APEC conference held in Shanghai in 2001, this APEC carries more tasks and expectations. It is an important task for the 2014APEC conference to demonstrate the soft power of our culture through APEC meetings. In this regard, the clothing worn by leaders of various countries every year is a good breakthrough.
In order to do a good job in APEC's costume design, from the end of 2013, the APEC organizing committee started the collection of the upgrading plan, and invited 71 enterprises, 259 designers and 18 universities. After the 3 stages of primary, final and final elections, the 60 participants participated in the sampling system. Then, after the selection of the panel of experts, 26 groups of excellent samples of the 36 participating units were finally selected for the 2014APEC garment.
There are two rounds to deepen the sample clothing. First, the expert group gives advice on the revision of the samples. After that, the finalists are selected. After the second sample suits were deepened, 9 of the participating units were selected for the core team designed by 2014APEC.
From the start to the completion of clothing production, 2014APEC clothing design work lasted nearly a year. Behind the final appearance of the costumes, a large number of designers are doing every creative design and thinking collision.
As a result, designers have done a lot of work.
In this regard, China textile daily has specially interviewed 4 designers of the 2014APEC core design team, aiming to give readers a better understanding of the design behind the APEC clothing design in a three-dimensional way to show the design of the APEC garment.
Chu Yan: the poetic flavor of APEC Costume
Everything is logical, but also a mission, with some inevitable and necessary factors, designer Chu Yan and so on become the APEC conference national leaders fashion designer.
Chu Yan, the first designer of the national leaders of the APEC conference, was repeatedly smiling at the title as the first designer of the conference. "This praise is too high. I only took part in some of these works, and the other designers paid a lot."
When the TV live broadcast, President Xi Jinping wore the "new suit" designed by herself, "all the entanglements and pressures were put down at that moment." Chu Yan said. Of course, in the face of mass media and questioning, Chu Yan strictly adheres to the confidentiality agreement. She chooses the latter between the "making topic" and the "indifferent design".
"Hanging clothes to govern the world" is Chu Yan's emphasis on China's "dress Kingdom and ceremonies" in a speech. She also integrates her understanding of Chinese philosophy and traditional culture into the fashion design of this APEC conference.
The Tang costume, which is different from the 2001 costume, is no longer a direct manifestation of China's charm, but rather a low-key and implicit expression of the tolerance of great power and ceremonies in temperament and detail. Chu Yan and a group of excellent designers have been chosen in history. Yu Shu, a Chu and Xiang Xiang studio, talked about her partner. "Chu Yan's character is very similar to our style of dress. She is very low-key, introverted and very cultured. We haven't seen her in such a turbulent state for so many years."
Looking back at Chu Yan's past design, standing collar, button, round pendulum and local printing and dyeing are the most important elements. The training of the profile and the stability and introvertion brought by the center of gravity and the center of gravity are the most impressive.
It is in such an attitude that the leaders of the APEC conference, the leader of the country's clothing, the design of the cardigan and the sleeves, can express the modesty of the whole as a whole, which is in line with the great power demeanour advocated by China after the economic rise 13 years later. She uses the real gold talent to design exquisite composition in the details, and the way of presenting the round pendulum, the buckle, the sea cliff, and so on, is characterized by not taking the lead and being more tolerant, graceful, and confident.
Back to the design of APEC leaders' clothing, Chu Yan can tell a lot of interesting tidbits, but she is the one who likes culture best. Some people like to comment on her dress: "only she can convey the idea of clothing from the perspective of vision, and see that her design is like a rich and distant Chinese flavor, which permeates the mind like a smoke and makes your body and soul immerse in a vast and beautiful realm."
In describing the details of "new suit", Chu Yan said, "standing collar is a well known element of Chinese traditional clothing, and the middle part is closed. In this design, we have created a double door, which is a new style of" cardigan ", which is a combination of the buttoned blouse and the collar. This style of clothing is more concise and accords with modern people's creative habits and aesthetic requirements. The Chinese style shoulder sleeve is combined with the Western three-dimensional cutting, and the design of the leader's clothing is hard and square.
This special design experience of APEC leader is a new starting point for Chu's career and a continuation of her own design style. She hopes that more and more people will fall in love with the visual elements of oriental aesthetics.
Luo Zheng: why didn't Pu Jinhui wear a skirt?
As the APEC fashion designer, the Golden Summit designer and the chairman and art director of Shenzhen Oriental fashion dress Co. Ltd., Luo Zheng is responsible for the dress design of 2014APEC female leaders and female relatives. Pu Jinhui's highly popular peach coat is also from Luo Zhengzhi's hand.
Behind the appearance of Park Geun hye's costume on APEC, designer Luo Zheng also explained the secret behind clothing.
Prior to Luo Zheng's design for park Geun hye, Luo Zheng told reporters that she had not only consulted Park Geun hye's daily dress habits, but also had a detailed understanding of his background.
"I carefully read Park Geun hye's autobiography, her life experience shocked me deeply, and let me know that she is a very tough and leadership woman." Luo Zheng told reporters that this also allowed her to design clothes for park Geun hye, which was different from the dress of the general wives' group. "I want to highlight the toughness and toughness of Park Geun hye's beauty."
Therefore, compared to other women's wide sleeved design, Pu Jinhui's cuffs are relatively small.
After consulting a lot of data, Luo Zheng found that park Geun hye almost did not cross the skirt. Taking into account her personal dress habit, Luo Zheng set up the park's dress when she was the only woman to appear in the APEC conference.
Unlike other women's coat designs, park is wearing a medium length jacket that needs to be buckled.
When designing clothes for park Geun hye, Luo Zheng's design team also incorporated a large number of Chinese elements. In addition to reflecting the concept of "sky and round place" in traditional Chinese culture, in order to match the practical temperament of Park Geun hye, its line of dress is more robust than that of other APEC women's clothing designs.
The embroidery pattern of Park Geun hye's hem is the river cliff pattern. Besides taking into account the acceptance of this traditional pattern in the world, it also has the implication of APEC21 economy's landscape dependence and guardians.
"Taking into account the weather conditions and environment at the time of APEC, Pu Jinhui was also wearing a scarf." Luo Zheng said that climate and environmental factors are important considerations for designers in the APEC conference costume design.
"The preparation time for the last sample is very urgent. Our design team spent more than 120 hours to make it." In July, Luo Zheng was told that he had undergone 7~8 sample changes.
Zhao Huizhou: the "wife group" should convey the beauty of temperament.
As one of the 2014APEC fashion designers, Zhao Huizhou is mainly responsible for the design of APEC leaders' female spouses. Zhao Huizhou told reporters that the general idea of this APEC clothing design should not only embody the Chinese elements, highlight the cultural connotation of the host country, but also respect and integrate elements of other countries and nationalities, so that leaders can have their own beauty.
Taking part in the design of this APEC leader's female family uniform, Zhao Huizhou was very excited: "the clothing of Mrs. APEC's group is different from the leader's dress, which is relatively relaxed and easy to follow. This also enables the designer to have more room to play in material selection, profile design, element application and presentation techniques."
Zhao Huizhou told reporters that with the transformation of modern women's social status and role, the role of modern women is constantly changing. "It is the standard of judgement for mature women to have a hall, a kitchen, and a balanced family and career."
In this regard, Zhao Huizhou said that in the design of this APEC leader's female family members, the design team focused on presenting the new style of contemporary women, showing the beauty of maturity and elegance of women, and trying to create the beauty of APEC temperament. "Our team has consulted a lot of data in the early stage of the design. Besides studying the traditional Chinese cultural history books, we also understand the personal styles, preferences and taboos of the spouses of different APEC leaders, and study the dressing of Mrs. APEC's group over the years, so as to achieve the most internationalized and modern expression of Chinese elements."
For this design, Zhao Huizhou told reporters that in the selection of fabrics, taking into account the climate of APEC during the meeting, clothing needs to be light and warm, so it has developed wool and silk blended fabrics; in terms of color selection, it is mainly based on plain and elegant colors, such as: traditional Tibetan blue, peony red and shallow apricot; in the profile design, the most popular design of the minimalist and large profile is adopted, which is not only simple and atmospheric, but also has good tolerance to different shapes.
To participate in this APEC costume design, Zhao Huizhou said that this provided a good platform for Chinese designers to go to the world, which is of great significance to the shaping and upgrading of new Chinese national dress and dress in the future. "In the post APEC era, China's design must go abroad, not only to paste its own culture DNA, but also to integrate traditional elements into design, while also concentrating on finding ways to internationalize traditional elements."
Ceng Fengfei: "one in a hundred" has the Imperial Palace red.
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