Taiping Bird: It'S Not So Easy To Label The Fashion.
If Burberry and Coach are rich in resources, developing a fast fashion brand will naturally attract some people to try.
If a small and beautiful independent designer brand, a fashion season can easily complete the style change.
But for companies such as Pacific bird, they want to become fashionable, almost starting from scratch.
And the way of changing fashion looks alike, that is, the methodology of studying the growth of foreign brands.
Pacific bird
First, the English name of Peacebird was used uniformly, and Landor, a design consultant company, was designed to design a brand new logo.
It began to boldly call the brand fans "bird people". When planning market activities, it began to host music festivals, and invited young stars and singers who were popular with young people to come to the platform.
On the TV in the lobby of the Ningbo headquarters cafe, there has been a circular show of the Taiping bird show on the international model. Once you have the opportunity to compare these historical photos with Taiping bird 20 years ago, you will think it looks like a new company.
Now, without changing the two quarter of a year, Taiping bird will launch 3 fashion lines for franchisees to pick their products every quarter.
Each season, after the theme of the season is set by the fashion director, several design departments extend their themes respectively.
For example, the autumn and winter series is being designed in 2017. The theme is "dance". Several different design departments will design dance styles such as dance and street dance.
This means that there are basically new products every two weeks, which is close to the update rate of ZARA.
MO&Co. launched the four seasons clothing series in one year, which has accelerated the new speed than before.
According to market research firm Ou Rui consulting, in 2015, Taiping bird ranked ninth in China's fashion apparel industry.
As mentioned earlier, MO&Co. and its Edition 10 two main women's clothing sales reached 2 billion 700 million yuan annually, with sales growth of 40% and profit growth rate of 54%.
Unlike other exceptions, such as Jiangnan Buyi and Su Ren, a group of Chinese independent designer brands founded 20 years ago, most of the predecessors of Taiping bird companies are purely garment manufacturers and have been relying heavily on traditional channels of mainland franchisees.
Their main market for a long time is three or four line cities, such as Pacific bird, where stores now account for 60% of the total number of stores, and most of them are difficult to relate to fashion.
This model is changing into the past.
With more emphasis on the rise of design and fashion rivals, the mainland's many three or four line cities began to call "consumption upgrading". Taiping's brand has also realized new opportunities in the new market competition pattern and this fast fashion trend.
"Those who are not fans of Taiping bird, whose cognition of this brand stayed a few years ago.
This is a habit.
But the key is to win consumers and new consumers.
Taiping bird CEO olimin told reporters.
Around 2014, Taiping began to pform.
He even thinks that if we just look at the product itself, there is no trace of special China. "We are Cosmo (metropolis), is the current fashion."
Ollie said.
To some extent, industry trends and consumer changes are indeed
Pacific bird
Such local fashion brands offer good opportunities.
First of all, the characteristics of fast fashion do not require the brand to have a particularly complete design concept and distinct style. As long as we keep up with the trend of every season, we will have the opportunity to catch up with the improvement of supply chain (which is regarded as the advantage of domestic clothing companies). At the same time, the rapid growth of social networking and the generation of post-90s generation is a brand new opportunity for the brand to abandon the "rustic" market image. If we adopt more market approaches to young people and create more topics, we will be able to reverse the image.
During the Shanghai fashion week in May 2016, Taiping bird hosted a grand order for women's wear in Ningbo.
In the show, a popular American model, Natelie Westling, did not appear to be the fashion editor and net red. Instead, nearly 2000 Taiping bird franchisees and their main retail partners were first recognized by these people.
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As a small promotion project, Taiping bird has also made a more direct marketing dialogue with young consumers in WeChat H5.
The H5, designed for the promotion of the women's sweater series, has been invited to the Natalie Wsetling model. The visual style is completely European and American. The interactive form also simulates the WeChat group and the circle of friends of the famous model. Among them, the flat headed female model Ruth Bell also shows a new Chinese: "domestic avant-garde" - everything is a template that young social groups like.
"I know this H5 was a bit surprised when it was produced by Taiping bird, because everything seemed right, especially the final form of presentation, which made the pition between online and offline very natural."
Wingfree, an active fashion designer in Shanghai, so commented on the publicity model of Taiping bird. She thought that this fashion could make young consumers brand new impressions.
Similarly, MO&Co., founded in 2004, has also attached great importance to building a global image and weakening the sense of local brand in recent years.
An example is that although some foreign social media can not be used normally in China, MO&Co. will still operate Facebook and Instagram seriously. It currently has nearly 30 thousand fans on Instagram and more than 20 thousand fans on Facebook.
In a big show in 751D PARK, Beijing, in July of this year,
MO&Co.
Also invited the international model Liu Wen and various nets red, also found Dou Jingtong as a performance guest, and this designer Zhou Xiangyu as stylist's fashion show highlights the current popular sports elements, a set of Green Hoodie suits, almost exactly the same as the current Vetements design director Demna Gvasalia Vetements design exactly the same.
The MO&Co. Edition 10 series has also entered the high-end buyer's department store, even in the high-end department stores Selfridges and de Bijenkorf in Holland, and so on.
"The good fashion product is beyond the national boundaries, and being a Chinese brand is not an obstacle," MO&Co. founder Kim Ni said in an interview with the South China Morning Post two years ago.
This looks really confident.
However, from the nature of the clothing business, design and marketing can only solve the brand's external communication, and the brand can never evade the most basic problem in the industry chain -- product line and supply chain management.
For clothing brand, any change of product line must take into account the needs of franchisees.
In the US, Gap is slow to pform, and it is precisely because it is under the pressure of not being recognized by sellers.
Now, without changing the two quarter of a year, Taiping bird will launch 3 fashion lines for franchisees to pick their products every quarter.
Each season, after the theme of the season is set by the fashion director, several design departments extend their themes respectively.
For example, the autumn and winter series is being designed in 2017. The theme is "dance". Several different design departments will design dance styles such as dance and street dance.
This means that there are basically new products every two weeks, which is close to the update rate of ZARA.
MO&Co. launched the four seasons clothing series in one year, which has accelerated the new speed than before.
MO&Co. has recently launched a series of Little MO&Co. 2016 for children's wear, and has tried Tmall's popular look at buying and selling.
It also plans to launch cosmetics brands like H&M. The target audience of REC's make-up series is young people aged 18 to 35, who will try to sell Guerlain cosmetics in the main cosmetics sales channels in mainland China, and consider opening stores next year.
The women's team of Taiping bird now has more than 60 people, most of whom are post-80s, and 10 of them have worked in overseas fashion brands.
Yang Wei, the design director, feels that what they need to do now is to meet the needs of the designers themselves.
"The old design may not be very popular, it is designed for older consumers."
The franchisees who have more direct relationship with consumers may also contribute good ideas.
"The agent also told me if he could have a high opinion. They thought that" Gao Ding "was advanced.
Consider clothes that require advanced money in the workplace.
Women's clothing will be discussed later. "
Hong Yang Wei said.
Hong Yang Wei threw this problem from the franchisee to Alexis Mabille, "what attitude should the high life become?" Fang Fang is the design director and founder of the French advanced custom clothing brand Alexis Mabille, which is newly purchased by Taiping bird. Taiping bird has planned to set up shop for Alexis Mabille series garments in China.
Alexis Mabille is a Frenchman. He came to Ningbo with his brother and business partners in May this year. He wanted to know what it was like to buy their company, and gave a share to Taiping bird employees.
Alexis Mabille also faced a more challenging question at the day's sharing session.
It comes from Cecilia Zhao, a Taiping bird dress designer. "How does a Chinese brand cater for the trend but keep it original?"
"When you are a designer, your job is to decide what people should wear. After all, this is our job."
Mabille answered naturally.
"In Europe, although everyone is independent, they are generally convergent. This is the so-called popularity. It is so created, whether by marketing or other means."
Mabille said.
The Pacific bird bought the same name of the French Alexis Mabille to enhance its brand image, and plans to open stores in the mainland in the future.
The description of Mabille can be done easily in a mature fashion system.
Alexis Mabill brand belongs to "international designers" in pricing. His design team will first provide a product line plan according to the pricing.
The designer then works on the basis of the cost and creatively.
This is a strictly backward process.
"We are considered to be creative people, some may not like it, but we can not let designers modify the design accordingly."
Alexis Mabille's CEO Martin Mabille said.
While in
China
Everything is much more random.
From Taobao to street buyer shops and then to independent designer brands, it is hard to tell exactly how the good trend was born.
In the view of Cecilia Zhao, too fast change brings the product of "going with the stream".
She worked as a design engineer in Georgio Armani, Italy, and brought some new ideas after joining the Pacific bird.
"It's not without reference to the design of others, but rather from the source of inspiration."
Zhao said.
Indeed, in addition to the pressure on the fashion brand, the competition between domestic and foreign fast fashion brands is a more serious problem.
Because when these local brands want to be more fashionable, the early entry into China's ZARA, H&M and Mango began to sink rapidly, which makes the competition between the two sides more direct.
"Young people pursue individuality and fashion rather than brand loyalty, which may have a significant negative impact on the company's business performance."
The Taiping bird described this concern in the prospectus submitted.
"Consumption escalation" is a blurry word. Although it gives many Chinese brands the opportunity to change, the process of change is not easy. "Domestic brands always want to do big business quickly," Zhou Ting said.
"ZARA's fast fashion should be based on the cost performance line. The key to the product is the brand image, the price is acceptable, and of course the design is more personal."
How to balance these three relationships, there are still many ways to explore Chinese fashion brands.
Unlike the Taiping bird, which is changing from inside to trial and error, some domestic brands are looking for another path.
For example, Semir chose direct agents to introduce the high-end clothing brand Marc O'Polo in Germany.
Shandong Ruyi Group
The French fashion group, SCMP Maje and Sandro, which owns Maje and Sandro, has bought a steady number of consumers in China.
Choosing to buy or cooperate with a mature brand is obviously a more efficient brand.
However, Taiping bird and MO&Co. still plan to continue to fight. "We need to grasp this dynamic change, the brand will change in 35 years," he said. "I believe we will soon have our own seats in the mid-range fashion market."
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