How Did Sports Suit + Air Max Become A London Street Standard?
"In the early twenty-first Century,
Nike
Sports suits and Nike Air Max sneakers are popular in London streets.
Ten years later, we founded C.E.
Although we were far away in Tokyo, the pictures of that era and that place were kept by us.
We see opportunities for cooperation with Nike as a way to interact more directly with these pictures.
To some extent, we are having time travel.
This cooperation project with Nike enables us to live in the present but redesign our history. "
Toby Feltwell explains the joint name of C.E and Nike.
So in this newly released cooperative project, we saw Air Max 95.
Gym shoes
,
Sports suit
The single product that belongs to the "history" side can also be added to the back of the sports pants and the elastic band to make the original profile more innovative, as well as C.E's Retro futuristic pattern and the perception of "live in the present" in digital printing.
As Toby Feltwell puts it, "we do not directly accept everything, but observe a wide range of interests, and then try to make some refinery and highlight the key points."
Looking back at the history of C.E's design, from the perspective of music to art, from the drawbacks of consumerism to the changes brought by popular culture, Internet and technology, "there are always traces to follow. You will feel that the brand has been walking all the way along with a bunch of crumbs, so you can explore the treasure that you can't get elsewhere."
To some extent, we are making time travel -- the origin of C.E and Grime.
Connecting London's past and Tokyo's present, C.E freely shuttles through the cultural space-time tunnel.
Before that, we have combed the ideas and philosophies that C.E was deeply influenced by cyberpunk, and the unique design taste extracted by C.E.
What is the specific history and tradition that C.E inherited?
As we all know, C.E's music tastes and designs are always in one continuous line. Many interesting attempts to subvert the routine are carried out through music.
In 2011, Sk8thing and Toby Feltwell founded C.E in Tokyo. Before the establishment of the brand, Sk8thing and Toby Feltwell were closely related to music and hobbies, occupying the Toby Feltwell of A&R (artist excavation), and even helped XL XL to sign the legendary figure of London music music in 03 years.
Sk8thing and Toby Feltwell initially went to London with Samples. The official appearance of C.E also started here. We hope that London Grime MC D Double E will wear these clothes to deduce the Lookbook, which has become one of the goals of the two people to establish the brand, and it has also been realized.
D Double E started his career as a pirate radio station in East London, joined the N.A.S.T.Y portfolio, founded her own Bluku, and the villains of the villains were mixed up with East London slang and sharp edged sword. He used the Woo Riddim as the accompaniment of the street voice, which was heard by Sk8thing and Toby Feltwell in London, and the existence of the Toby in a Grime scene became the object that the two people appreciated and wanted to cooperate with.
As the first card, the two series of C.E in 2012 were filmed by Tim & Barry, which has long been recorded in the Grime music scene of London. D Double E has appeared in the video modeling special. Dubstep producer Zomby provides music, and Toby Feltwell believes that it is the first time for them to integrate vision and music, and has all the elements they want.
Dubstep and Grime belong to the most important genre of UK Garage culture. They originated and developed in the eastern and southern areas of London two thousand years ago. If you want to listen to the most authentic local Dubstep at that time, you should update your views compared to the music you receive now.
C.E was shown in Tokyo fashion week in 2013, and also had a music collaboration with Zomby.
Slam Jam has invited Toby Feltwell to share its Tracklist to explore how music pformed into the aesthetics of C.E. D Double E E's Bad To To (two) and the "third" are ranked in the top third respectively.
In his playlist, of course, there's now the experimental electronics you will hear in C.E's Party at the club, but to say that the historical source of C.E's music aesthetics is back to the streets of London in the millenium, we must start with Grime.
Grime, born in the bottom soil of London, redefines the way British young people present themselves.
You may have heard several Grime songs, but you may not know the background and the whole story of the product.
For young people in Britain, owning their own style of music and dressing seems to have long been a belief. British culture has always been defined by young people. They have changed the fashion of a generation through clothing and music, making Britain the cradle of nurture youth culture.
Skinhead, Mods, Chav and other ethnic groups are breeding here. Grime, Jungle, Acid House, Garage, Punk, Emo, Reggea and so on are all here. Every generation can define their identity through new dressing and music style.
And music itself is the embodiment of culture, all music has the evolution process, the source is the local culture, politics and social life.
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According to the world clothing and shoe net, in the early twenty-first Century, the 911 incident completely changed the power structure of the world; the Carnival Party in the 90 years was on the decline; the Internet world was rising, and all kinds of social platforms and new sharing modes were opened.
Facing the new era and pattern, confusion and panic, consumerism has become the core of youth culture. Many young people from working-class began to rethink and find their own music and identity, and appear in a more street and more fanatical way.
This energy is infectious.
Grime, which was born in the bottom soil of London, redefined the way the young people of Britain presented themselves.
They use the computer software Pro Tools and Fruity Loops to produce and disseminate music through pirate radio. The lyrics of the abuse are almost all about life in East London, violence, drug trafficking and immigration.
Of course, it is also interesting that Grime has become the music of these young people, creating a new underground culture.
"14 years ago, in the Bow E3 area of East London, the voice that was enough to represent a generation came into being.
It is dark, angry, noisy, tough, provocative and absolutely independent.
It is a howl in the depths of awakening and despair, but it is also a horn full of hope. "
Hattie Collins describes the origin of Grime.
From the perspective of musicality, after the heyday of Jungle and Rave in the middle of 90s, there was a mixed culture of various kinds of dance music, which is called UK Garage.
One of the most important extensions is Grime, which was probably played by black people in the east end of London in about 99 years.
Grime is a great musicality, with the Caribbean Sea Ragga (Ragga and Dancehall inseparable, the slums in Kingstown, Jamaica, the British Drum&Bass and Jungle) and the influence of Hip Hop in the United States. The accompaniment is combined with more English electronic dance elements, and more and more MC, at the 140 PBM Beat, present the thought of society and community glory with the lyrics, not as simple as Rap.
Born and grown on the east side of London, Wiley of pure London English "Cockney" (imagining the accent in the film "two big gun"), his "Eskibeat" is considered the first Grime music, inheriting the drums of UK Garage, but the tough Bassline and the dark and deep tone are different from UK Garage, creating a morphological basis for later Grime...
With this theme, the "Eskibeat Dance" activities, which assembled many MC, became the largest stage of Grime performance in British history.
From the basement of East London to the stage of mercury awards, Grime music has become popular in the underground music scene of Britain.
As early as 2003, Dizzee Rascal Boy won the mercury award on the album "Boy In Da Corner". Then Grime music began to receive media attention. The British Channel U TV station also had Grime music music program, which had spread to the other side of the United States.
In 2015, Kanye West invited 40 London Grime rappers to participate in their live performances at the all England Music Awards Presentation Ceremony. In 2016, Skepta and its Grime team Boy Better Know performed the world tour. The Skepta label also signed Drake as a member. In the same year, Skepta's personal album, "Drake", won the mercury Music Award.
The current Grime has long been the world's music stage from the synonyms of street culture and dance scene in London.
How did sports suit + Air Max become a London street standard?
The relationship between music and modeling is complementary to each other. We can always get a glimpse from history.
Grime has become the voice of a generation, and the dress style of the group has become the concrete embodiment of cultural form.
Must have comfortable, ready to go on the property, from Air Max to sportswear, Averix jackets, baseball caps are essential for this group.
Most of Grime MC grew up under the influence of Hip Hop culture in the United States, and also listened to the generation of Jungle and Garage. Therefore, they will see the Oversize Clan coat with Wu-Tang Clan shadow in their attire, and the frock garment is also the symbol clothing at that time, and the Hoodie or sports suit provides the hidden and convenient use they need in "street games".
The styling style of Grime can also be described as the opposite of elitism, represented by Garage, "Versace out, Nike in".
Garage's party is full of cocaine and champagne, flashy and smelly copper. At the end of 90s, many Garage clubs in the UK banned wearing sports shoes, sportswear, jeans and baseball caps. These items were also essential for the street.
The Grime group is loyal to street clothes and disdain Garage, because they are loyal to their growth background and living habits at the bottom, telling the most realistic aspects of their social life and life in East London.
D Double E: "back to the past, Tracksuit is the only thing we will wear, whether Averix, Akademiks or Nike."
Skepta: "people choose the former among comfort, practicality and posture."
Grace LaDoja, in its documentary AIR MAX - THE UNIFORM, invited OG to represent Skepta, the new generation Novelist and South London Grime team The, and discussed the relationship between the two.
"If Grime is the voice of street culture in London, then Air Max is the street uniform of London."
DJ Logan Sama said in the film.
The Grime group also has a nickname of "Air" and "115" for the retail price of shoes in the form of Air Max 95 and Air Max Plus TN.
C.E and Nike's choice of Air Max 95, its "adaptability" is very popular in the Grime scenario, from suede leather to leather enough to withstand the worst weather in Britain.
The wild Nike Air Max Plus TN is also indispensable in the Grime dress. The Boy Better Know team and other Grime leaders are almost hand in hand, giving the TN character a personality. Everyone wants to rush to the store to buy a pair to prove that she is part of the culture, that is, when it is convenient, the price is very high for them.
Then the Grime leader Skepta and Nike jointly launched the Air Max 97 Sk, Nike Air Max 97/BW, which also reflected the return of Nike to the culture of the Nike.
Not only is the sports brand, but after Grime enters the mainstream view, the high street brand also shows its longing for it, and Nasir Mazhar has invited Skepta to be a model for fashion show.
"When I was young, Air Max was a symbol of identity. The more attention the air cushion is, the more attention it will receive. The large area of air cushion will enable everyone to see it."
Skepta recalled, "we wear Air Max to run in the streets, whether you go to the club or play football in the street. Anyway, wearing Air Max in London is a very comfortable experience."
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Another representative of Grime, Dizzee Rascal, is wearing a full black Tracksuit and Air Max BW. The Grime "standard" appears on the cover of the album Boy In Da, and it also affects the design of later.
Dizzee Rascal has also launched a limited Air Max 180 "Dirty Stank" and Air Max 90 "Tongue N" Tongue with Nike Nike.
Under normal circumstances, 95 and TN are the first choice to highlight the Grime style and street wear. Although Air Max 1 is not the most commonly used sports shoes for Grime groups, it is more suitable for use as a lifestyle sport shoe.
Bru-C even produced a song called "Air Max 1" in 14 years. Devlin's "50 Grand" music video shows that Skepta is wearing a pair of black Air Max 1s; Air Max 1 Air is interpreted by South London and the two.
On the other hand, sports suits are also in the uniform of the British Chav group.
In Britain, where there are strict social class divisions, there are dignitaries of the aristocracy and the middle class, and there are many African immigrants such as Peckham. There are many places in the Caribbean region like Lewisham.
Besides the cultural patterns formed by the melting pot, the restless factors at the bottom are also surging in the dark. The emergence of Chav is the background. This derogatory term refers to a cultural phenomenon, usually referring to those undereducated youth who are regarded as lacking in education and aesthetics.
Why does Chav like to wear sportswear? Because sports suits are cheap and easy to buy, consuming power determines their dress.
The emergence of Chav has a strong irony, reflecting the living conditions of young people at that time.
Since 90s, sportswear has become a product closely related to British society and culture. Both Grime and Chav groups have been affected by similar social strata.
Now the Chav style is also drawing on the trend of the street. It is interpreted by a brand new language like Gosha Rubchinskiy, Vetements, and so on. At that time, no one would have thought that the popular Chav in the past two thousand years will affect the mainstream fashion.
As Grime music enters the mainstream world, much attention has been paid to it. In the global underground dance scene, Grime, which is rooted in the British dance culture, has created space for various artists and created more experimental avant-garde dance music on this basis.
But does the peak mean Grime is about to decline?
Jammer, who was the leader of the Lord Of The Mics series competition, believes that the real Grime is dying. "Many people just want to get rich, and forget why they started to do Grime and their nature.
Confused by labels, people tell you that maybe you should wear that sportswear, you should stand with those guys, then you begin to lose the essence of what people love you.
Sincerity is so precious, not only for individuals, but also for the whole scene.
I am lucky enough to be with the people who respect the nature of London. Grime has already experienced a complete cycle. Now we should pay more attention to education and knowledge.
In 2014, it was "Grime". At that time, Skepta released the single "That" s Not Me, and took the music videos with the budget of 80 pounds. The lyrics expressed that they were not attracted by commercial music and recalled to the underground music parties and the golden era of pirate radio, and practiced the Grime belief that "never forget the origin" and "do not cater for the masses and lose themselves".
Grime, as one of the most representative youth movements in London, reflects the evolution of urban culture and becomes the voice of a generation. The essence and root is the essence. If the culture changes the form of the public into an easy digestion form, it will weaken the essence and not expand the virtues under the premise of refining the essence.
Everything will become a victim of the times.
I believe that the last thing people want to see is the death of faith.
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