Why Is It Difficult For Zhengzhou To Retain Clothing Designers Because Of Its Huge Capacity?

Anhui people clumping the sword to Zhengzhou, the earliest wedding dress made a hit, the impact of the electricity supplier, this year's new year's day to become the IP of Chinese style elements; from the father of the clothing professor Wu Yuchan, after graduating from the designer assistant, after seven or eight years, she started the women's clothing brand "Qian Yan"; Wei Zhe left the media and created the "grotesque planet". He did not expect to make cross-border products for XTEP, miss you and China Post. Together, they formed a group of Zhengzhou fashion designers who fought hard.
At present, this group still faces the realistic choice to stick to or run away, survive or dream.
Creativity can also be sold as a commodity.
Every day in the proofing shop, clothing factory, fabric market and the masanmaomao entity shop in Zhengzhou's reguang creative factory, it is the daily life of designer Ma San Mao.
When he was a university student, he hung a classroom assignment in a friend's home store, but was accidentally seen and bought by a client. He realized for the first time that the original idea could be sold as a commodity. This also directly helps him make his own choice after graduation.
Masama's design inspiration comes from his perception and perception. He likes watching people, collecting fragments information and emotions, and movies, music and art can stimulate his desire to express. In bathing or half asleep, his mind is most active.
Ma San Mao said he was born to wear good clothes. He is not only the designer and designer of clothing, but also the consumer and collector of clothing.
Usually, he has two design paths, which are inspired by the fabric itself, and design the appropriate style and version, or first have an idea, and then look for the related fabric to achieve it. As a designer, what he lacks most is brainstorming. "Design (inspiration) comes very fast", all of which owes to his understanding of clothing characteristics and fashion trends, as well as his large purchase experience and wearing experience at ordinary times.
Designers are not isolated. He wants to communicate with print masters and factories.
Designers are not always stylish and fashionable. They have to run factories and enter workshops. Fortunately, he feels that "the whole process is enjoyable". "I live for clothes."
　　 From designer to brand founder
Ma San Mao is not only a designer, but a more important role is the original brand owner.
More and more designers see the industry's low return on investment and opt out, and the people left behind rely on experience and connections to transform themselves into the originator of the original brand. In recent years, the collective transformation of Zhengzhou designer group as the boss and the creation of original brand has gradually become scale.
Wu Yuchan entered a clothing enterprise in Shanghai in 2002. After being a designer assistant for a year, a year and a half designer and a director of design for two or three years, she returned to Zhengzhou to set up a studio, which mainly directed the research and development of clothing for Shanghai customers. In 2015, she founded the original dress brand "Qian Yan" and became her own boss.
After the design of Meng Xi Hui Zheng, he once held the post of design director in ESEY and Ya Li Da, and then created the two brands of "Nuo ran" and "Xi Shanghua Yi". Wang Shengjie, a designer born in 1994, started his own brand of original designer two years after graduation.
"It's hard to be a designer in an enterprise, because most of the owners of Zhengzhou clothing enterprises do not have top-level design. Many bosses have been doing the design phenomenon. The landlady often has a hammer on the east side, and the designer becomes the tool of the landlady. The sense of existence and the right to speak are not strong enough, so there will be lots of imitation copy, old money and plagiarism." Zhengzhou local senior designer, Cong Jian, analyzed the reasons why many designers transformed themselves to create brand names to the Henan Commercial Daily reporter.
But it is not easy to turn from designer to brand founder.
"Product designers are faced with a point that requires only a good product, but the brand helmsman is facing the combination of dots and lines. It is a manager's role and must undergo a process of experience, which takes at least 3 years." Wu Yu Chan took more than 8 years to complete the transformation from product designer to brand founder.
　　 Leaving or leaving
Compared with the first tier cities, Zhengzhou's local clothing design industry is poor in soil and weak in strength. This is the fact that Zhengzhou fashion designers are struggling to survive.
The sluggish industry leads to brain drain, which in turn aggravate the industry's malformation and forms a vicious circle.
In the 80s and 90s of last century, there was a saying that "Henan's clothing design talent flies peacocks southeast." In 1985, Song Ruiping graduated from the fashion design department of Henan Institute of Engineering. She was the first student. At that time, there were only 9 graduates. Most of his classmates went to Guangdong, Zhejiang and other places. She also went to Guangdong Zhanjiang.
Until now, local designers in Zhengzhou still face the choice of staying behind or leaving.
Zhengzhou and even Henan have huge capacity in clothing production, but they do not match design, research and development and originality. In 1978, the annual output value of Henan clothing was only 2 billion yuan, and the output was 29 million 830 thousand. By 2018, the annual output value of Henan clothing reached 300 billion yuan and the output of 3 billion 200 million was 150 times and 107 times that of 1978.
The annual output value of 300 billion yuan ranks sixth in the national rankings. But in the view of Chen Yongbin, President of Zhengzhou clothing association, "compared with traditional clothing provinces Guangdong, Zhejiang, Jiangsu, Shandong and Fujian, Henan still has a big gap in brand influence, and the ability of innovative design and R & D is relatively weak. Lack of talent is the primary factor."
2008 is the golden age of "women's pants watching Zhengzhou". At the end of that year, 160 million pairs of chemical fiber trousers were produced in Zhengzhou, accounting for half of the market of similar products in China. However, Li Gang, President of Henan garment industry association, can see the characteristics of "low brand added value and weak original design ability". He once made an analogy, "Zhengzhou women's pants are equivalent to undergraduate students, and have a considerable distance from graduate and doctoral students."
Why are local designers outflowing?
"The clothing capacity of Zhengzhou has gone up, and it has spawned a large number of garment manufacturers who are mainly engaged in tail cargo and wholesale trade, but they are doing the business of garment porters. The current Zhengzhou industry does not support the survival of designers, and lack of big IP. Even if it is hard to run a design industry competition, the prize is also being taken by others, and designers will inevitably outflow over the years. Cluster analysis.
More than 10 years ago, Cong's clothing was very well done in private custom business. At that time, he faced competition with local designers and worked well. Later, with the popularity of the Internet and electric business, his competitors suddenly rose to the dimensions of the whole world. Because of the lack of a good industrial background in Zhengzhou, coupled with a relatively backward industrial system, the designers of Cong Jian faced PK all over the country, and suddenly became passive. During this period, designers around the company did not stop flowing. Although some choose to stick to it, most of them are due to personal relationships, such as parents' physical or family reasons.
Low income is a more realistic reason. A designer who did not want to be named told the Henan Commercial Daily reporter that in Zhengzhou, a mature designer earned a basic salary of around 5000 yuan per month, plus sales or sales figures. But the selling market in Zhengzhou is extremely immature. Some big clothing brands prefer to buy from northern Guangzhou and Shenzhen, rather than Zhengzhou designers who are more familiar with local conditions. Moreover, designers need 3~5 years to grow from maturity to maturity. It takes a lot of perseverance to get through this short period of cultivation, and many people can not get through it.
A senior designer from Shenzhen returned to Zhengzhou told the Henan Commercial Daily reporter that he worked for 18 years, and now she gets 8000 yuan at the end of each month, and sells 20% pieces of clothes she designs for herself. According to this calculation, his monthly income was maintained at ten thousand yuan in the off-season, and reached twenty thousand or thirty thousand yuan in the peak season. After 18 years of experienced designers, the income of the recruits in the industry can be imagined.
　 To survive or to be ideal?
In addition to designing the poor soil and the brain drain, these designers are also faced with the choice of survival or ideal choice.
"Not every design will be accepted by the market, it is my work full of design feelings, but too much art is not in line with the needs of consumers. People tell me that they can't jump out, they can't wear out, and ordinary people can't understand......" Above is a designer's Tucao.
Masama had also been puzzled by the gap between art and commerce. At first, his studio was mainly customized. But he gradually realized that customization is a propositional composition, and he needs to create the mind of his customers. After a long time, he has a deep sense of Antagonistic Psychology and weariness.
"Don't want to please people, just want to please yourself." When he returned to free creation, he took himself as the design object and built his personal IP with his dressing concept. Later, he opened the first real store, and gradually realized that "I can't give clothes to people regardless of it. I want people to know how to dress better." "the key to mature designers lies in control." he gradually found the best balance between the market and himself.
When Wang Shengjie first entered the society, he took his work to the exhibition, and was always asked to change it there and make it there to meet the aesthetic requirements of the market. She will stick to her favorite style, but after many times, she will gradually abandon some exaggerated designs.
The original brand "diffuse show" responsible person division said, most of the original brand has a very clear positioning and style at the beginning, but if the market is cold, in order to survive, it can only compromise to the market, the style deviation, the accumulation of customers and accumulation of funds to achieve a certain amount, and then restore the original, this is the founder's curve dream.
Change 1
Cut off agents, face the terminal.
In fact, in the dilemma of self and market, many fashion brand founders will turn to the latter. The process and method are different.
Domestic clothing brands such as Lining have also experienced some swings. Because unable to directly perceive the psychology and change of consumers, Lining once appeared to be overpriced, unable to capture young consumers, and was in a predicament of losing money for years. Later, Lining achieved a certain balance in the market and design. It increases the proportion of Direct stores, and creates offline experience stores that combine shopping, fitness and social interaction. This allows Lining's design concept to reach the terminal directly, allowing consumers to connect with brands, so as to produce products on the basis of understanding consumer preferences.
In line with Lining's thinking, Zhengzhou designer Sally Wu, the designer of the brand, is cutting off agents, and there are only 5 agents left. She believes that because of the involvement of the middle channel providers, the terminal situation can not be directly fed back to the brands and manufacturers. After cutting off the agent, she will increase the sense of customer experience and take the F2C (vendor to consumer) mode.
Such a price is that in the past two years, because of the strategic adjustment reasons, Sally Wu's brand sales have declined, which is the inevitable labor pains in the strategic adjustment period. How to do it after the agency is cut off? Sally Wu is going to recruit partners in various cities, the other side is on the stage, and the workers are responsible for training, supervising, providing goods and participating in the site selection. In this way, manufacturers can see the most authentic sales data every day.
Two
Rooted in the Central Plains culture, creating "Zheng Chao"
Some individuals are also making efforts to change the situation that Zhengzhou is not fertile enough to design soil. Their practice is to make IP, sell creativity and create tidal cards, and derive nutrients from the accumulation of heavy historical and cultural resources in Central Plains.
With the help of the strategy of "national light", Lining crossed the border with Hongqi automobile and people's daily.
Independent designer Ma San Mao is also the main concept of the national tide, but he incorporated the tide card into the local culture, named "Zheng Chao".
Masanmaomao "Zheng Chao" series of clothing uses 27 commemorative towers and two characters in Zhengzhou as the main design elements, and only 27 pagodas are painted for a week. This inspiration had been in his mind for a month before he came to a complete train of thought. He believes that "Zheng Chao" represents his emotional release to Zhengzhou, representing the independence, independence and tide of the new youth in this city. In the October 22nd Zhengzhou international fashion week, the "Zheng Chao" full range of costumes will start in the closing ceremony of Zhengzhou international fashion week.
It is a way to expand the power of Zhengzhou designers by exploiting the culture of Central Plains. In the view of Li Gang, President of Henan garment industry association, "the heavy history and culture of Central Plains provide fertile soil for fashion and creative industries."
Three
Create tide cards, sell creativity, do IP
Zhengzhou's original brand "grotesque planet" is exporting creativity. The grotesque planet has been working with XTEP, miss you jujube, China Post, the variety show, this is hip-hop, and so on. The mode is "grotesque planet" to provide them with creative design and give these traditional big wave concepts.
Similar to UNIQLO and KAWS to launch a joint T-shirt, the "grotesque planet" is a postal design "mail for the tide" series of tidal clothing, so that users can first find that postal service can also be so fashionable. "What we are exporting is creativity and style. It is no longer about making money through production and sales, not just selling products." Wei Zhe, the head of grotesque planet, said.
Senior designer Cong Jian is building IP. He used the Chinese culture as the base plate to graft the characteristic culture of different places. For example, he used the costumes of the Yao nationality to decorate the local art performance. In the view of Cong sword, it is to create IP with the help of creative clothing to help customers hatch.
Whether it is "grotesque planet" or "clump sword", the rise of similar local brands and local designers has made Zhengzhou's garment industry richer and more three-dimensional, and accelerated the pace of integration of "Central Plains fashion capital" with international fashion.
Help fashion week, foster local clothing design strength
Industry associations, governments and enterprises are also stepping up blood transfusion for Zhengzhou's garment design industry.
Every year in Zhengzhou there are many large competitions in the fashion design industry, such as Zhongyuan International Fashion Week, China (Henan) International College fashion week, and Zhengzhou international fashion week. Fashion week can be seen as a positive attempt to strengthen local fashion confidence, boost the Central Plains fashion discourse and solve the problem of the clothing industry.
The upcoming second Zhengzhou International Fashion Week aims to create voice opportunities for local designers and original brands in Zhengzhou. Last year's first landing, there were 29 brands and 27 cutting-edge designers all over the world. Many of them came from the fashion industry in Zhengzhou.
The second Zhengzhou international fashion week is scheduled for October 18th for a period of 5 days. This fashion week focuses on local characteristics. A large number of original local brands in Zhengzhou will show up. With the original works of local designers, they will tell the story of Zhengzhou brand and voice the Zhengzhou fashion.
There is still a long way to go for clothing design in Zhengzhou. However, efforts from individuals, enterprises, industry associations, government and media are already on the way. As Li Gang said, "revitalize the huge stock resources of Central Plains, promote the design of the energy industry, and let the people of Central Plains grow up, so that the clothing capacity can be increased and the fashion of Henan will become stronger."