No One To Replace! Designer Phoebe Philo Will Return To Rivers And Lakes

Fans of global Phoebe Philo have been boiling up lately! Philo is recruiting designers to prepare for the launch of its personal fashion series, "focusing on environmentally-friendly basic funds," according to WWD, quoted by the women's wear daily (WWD).

The Celine's former creative director has left so far, and the two-year competition agreement is about to end in March.

Philo did not reply to the message. Some analysts say she has a close relationship with Johann Rupert, chairman of the group, which is likely to become a supporter of Philo's personal brand. Earlier, there were rumors that she might join Ala a, a group under the same name.

The London Central Saint Martin School of art and design graduates is one of the designers of the 2010s fashion landscape. Since 1997, she has entered the French fashion house Chol, as assistant designer of Stella McCartney, and has been the creative director of Chol Chol from 2001 to 2006, and has successfully launched the first "It Bag" in the fashion industry.

In the ten years from 2008 to 2017, she reversed the history of LVMH group's brand Celine (C C) when she was fashionable and popular with female consumers. From then on, her name could hardly be separated from Celine. According to analysts' estimates, in the ten years as Celine creative director, Philo has won a large number of wealthy women loyal fans following its minimalist design style, helping Celine achieve annual sales of up to US $900 million.

Philo did not announce the next plan when he left in 2017, and rarely appeared in public after that. At the same time, when Hedi Slimane was in charge of the "new Celine" style mutation, the old C e line style consumer's mind seemed to be nowhere to be placed. After five days of Slimane debut, the "old C line" resale website The Realreal sales increased 51% compared with the beginning of the month. BoF reported on LVMH's performance in 2019 last week, using a brand similar to "robust" and "excellent" to describe its growing performance, and its slow start Celine is not listed.

The market has looked forward to Philo, or will take over the British brand Burberry or successor Karl Lagerfeld Chanel, more people want to know who is the next leader of the modern women's fashion market. People naturally miss and look forward to her comeback. Otherwise, you will not see people using the "successor of the old C line" or "the new successor of C e line style" to describe the designers who are new designers, or bother to discuss which brands may fill in the blanks after the exit of "old C line".

Competitors have long started building their own design team through recruiting Philo apprentices. Lewis Alexander, a fashion professional consultant, said in an interview with the Losangeles times: "the brand has opened up a very large market in the garment industry, and most of them are developing in leather products, which makes everyone in the team very competitive."

So we can see that the designer with the essence of "C line" is rising to divide up the modern Philo fashion market. In the 20 years when Philo and Chol C worked together, the apprentices in the fashion world were all over the world. Philo Today, Daniel Lee, who runs Bottega Veneta, has helped Kai Yun group to revive the brand. According to the latest financial results of the group, its annual revenue can grow by 2.2% to 1 billion 170 million euros, thanks to the new creative direction. Sara Jowett, from Chol to Celine, has been following the footsteps of Philo. Now it is the design director of MB, Stella McCartney.

In recent years, Peter Do, a new generation designer, has been getting more attention in the "old C line" circle. After finishing his studies from New York FIT college in 2014, she gained the opportunity to enter C line by virtue of the LVMH Prize award. Since 2018, he has started creating personal brands, and the first series of designs has been selected by Net-a-Porter, which is not common for new designers. Daniel Lee helped Bottega Veneta become the British Fashion Awards (Fashion Awards) for the annual brand award. He also won three awards, including the annual accessories designer, the annual women's wear designer and the annual designer.

However, Philo is still known as the designer of women. Her admiration for self and comfort finally achieved the realistic minimalist fashion with amazing intuition and precise communication, and awakened many female audiences who wanted to be considered modern, artistic and intellectual. The wide leg pants, luxurious thick sweaters, flowing women's pajamas and the length of the knee skirt made the women's self in the 2010s: comfort and effortless became the ultimate luxury, inspired the new generation of fashion brands.

At the same time, she herself is modern and perfect, and is perfectly compatible with her aesthetics. It is regarded by many customers as the face that truly represents the ideal modern female group. She has built up a minority worship around her personal existence and is in line with the spirit of the times. This is also the ability that her apprentices do not possess at present. They are still building products, and Philo itself is brand.

Today, only Philo's comeback rumours have delighted everyone, no doubt miss her modern age, and expect her to continue her own style. And the question is: if rumors are true, will the group be a new good owner? The trend of environmental protection and fashion is the current trend. To create a brand that can satisfy Philo can also involve huge investment. The peak group, which is hard and extravagant, has always been struggling in fashion. The group has sold Shanghai Tang and Lancel, and its current fashion brands include Chlo, Ala, a and Dunhill. The group recently reorganized its executives, and jointly launched a new brand named AZfashion, jointly with Lanvin Alber Elbaz, a new creative director, indicating a strategic repositioning.

Mario Ortelli, a luxury goods analyst, once said: "unlike the hard luxury business, up to now, the group has not yet found the secret to make its soft luxury brand successful. But the latest moves show that the group is determined to try and work hard to find solutions. Perhaps, Philo's joining can make it harvest a killer.