Fashion Week Men'S Week Cancelled Fashion Industry Show And Fashion Week Development

London men's week - cancel. Paris men's wear week cancelled. Paris Gao Ding Zhou - cancelled.

　　 The spread of new crown pneumonia is spreading globally, and the news of the cancellation of fashion week is pouring in.

On Friday, March 27th, Italy Fashion House announced that the Milan men's wear week, scheduled for June, was postponed. It will be merged into the week of September 2020.

The French fashion and Fashion Federation also said it would cancel the Paris men's fashion week originally scheduled for June and the Paris fashion week, which was scheduled to take place in July.

The British Fashion Association also cancelled the original men's week in London in June, and is "looking for new ways to digitize their fashion display platforms."

In fact, some brands that take the lead in realizing risks have chosen to cancel the show, including Hermes. Gucci, Ralph Lauren and Agnes.B. In addition, the fashion week of two East Asian regions in Seoul, Tokyo, was also cancelled before.

The Shanghai fashion week, which originally postponed the plan, finally released the overall cloud decision. "I don't think so, nor can it completely disappear from the market." Lin Jian, director of showroom time hall, told the doorway reporter that fashion week is divided into two parts, one is the business part of time hall, the other is fashion week's most familiar aspect: Xiu Xiu. Lin Jian said, "I think that they find a new way of presentation is also a powerful exploration."

This led to the frequent discussion of the need to continue the fashion week, which has come to the darkest decades. In particular, the new crown pneumonia is highly susceptible to infection. The crowd is extremely dangerous and there is no room for conversion. It is imperative to find new ways and alternatives.

In 2017, the famous fashion show director Alexandre de Betak interviewed Dazed and was asked about the future of the fashion show. He said, "for me, one of the breakthroughs is that we are familiar with the rules and regulations of fashion week - the time and arrangement of activities are strictly managed - and now the production of fashion shows, social media feedback is very important."

"If possible, this may prompt designers and fashion houses to publish in different ways, such as at different times, at different locations, and even with different groups of people, after all, the spread of information has become fast and wide."

He unknowingly predicted three years later. Go on the line and go up to the clouds. From the old fashion house to the designer brand, every season's show video will appear on the Internet quickly. No one will deny that digitalization is the general trend.

But the show is just one thing. The collaboration with commerce links the fashion week cards in the clouds.

"How many storms" in fashion week?

Although it is hard to find a precedent for such a large-scale cancellation and delay, fashion week is not the first time that there has been a crisis.

In 2001, the New York fashion week, which is going to release the autumn and winter series, has just started. In September 11th, the world trade center collapsed in soot and flames. "Deep and superficial: fashion and disaster" records, "many international media found that in New York that day, they only witnessed the terrorist event" journalist "is fashion editor. The United States has sealed off the sea, land and air borders. Journalists can't get in, and fashion editors can't get out. "

This article is a recollection of the year by British writer Linda Grant, "she wrote. The industry is concerned about whether fashion shows can go on, whether we can ignore the pain of families who are still helpless but still carry pictures of missing persons wandering around the ruins of the world trade center. As a result, the rest of the fashion shows were cancelled. At that time, Tom Ford also took charge of Gucci. He had always had a theme of striptease planning, and it was obvious that he had to cancel it.

At that time, the failure of New York fashion week made Paris and Milan hesitate, but eventually they held their fashion week. Such turmoil is a reminder: what we are familiar with, from The fashion week that the brand, the media, the public relations and the buyer participate together are born in the background of the war.

In 1943, influenced by the Second World War, the media and buyers could not go to Paris. Eleanor Lambert, a smart public relations man, realized this opportunity and planned a "media week" campaign, hoping to bring the public's attention to American design.

This activity lasted until the late 50s, bringing designers including Oscar de la Renta to prominence. Both Vogue and Bazzar began to focus on Native American designers. But in general, the form at that time was far from being like today.

In 1989, Jean-Paul Goude, a visual artist, designed a large street flower car device to commemorate the two hundred year of the French Revolution. At that time, Alexandre de Betak had not yet entered the fashion world. It was only a young woman who was taking pictures with Kodak cameras. He was deeply impressed by this flower car tour.

The commemorative event was later broadcast on television, but Jean-Paul Goude himself was very indignant at the effect of the broadcast and thought it was a blasphemy. "The truth of the matter is that a completely dynamic, good live event is not feasible on TV. But I like it very much because I can see it. " De Betak said in an interview with INTERVIEW.

But today everything is different. " Technology and social media turn live activities into a screen experience. There are TV, live broadcast, Instagram and Snapchat. The latter means that you see not only the perspective of a camera, but what everyone sees. We are also using 3D technology, multi aircraft perspective, and so on, and AR. In the end, we need to make people experience better results than live. "

Technology provides a new production plan and display way for fashion show. Last month, Giorgio Armani temporarily cancelled the Milan fashion week's live events and changed it to live online as a whole, taking into account the impact of the epidemic. How old is the live show? Helmut Lang is the first designer to do this. He presented his autumn and winter series in 1998 in a webcast way, which was 22 years ago.

Over the past more than 20 years, viewers have been used to watching fashion shows through screens. Giorgio Armani's big show real-time video broadcast in Tencent, Tencent video also take the same Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Chanel, Gucci, Fendi, Salvatore Ferragamo, etc. More than 16 million subscribers watched a total of over 40 shows.

"Now designers and veteran fashion houses realize that their most important audience is not only those who appear in the show, but those who are in social media." De Betak said in a Vogue article. "The influence on Instagram and other social media is an important indicator."

In other words, buying and selling is one of the important reasons for the brand to go online. In Tencent video sync released 2020 autumn and winter series of Buberry, its B Series package erected in WeChat applet quickly sold out. As early as September 2016, the Tommy Hilfiger was launched for the first time, that is to say, buying and selling, which has gained more than 9 hundred million sales growth. Within 24 hours of the end of the show, several styles were sold out.

Tom Ford also joined the autumn and winter of 2016, becoming his first sight buying series. He told GQ that he had called the Burberry creative director, Christopher Bailey, who was the first to open and buy at that time, and growled, "I had planned it all! You take my step! I want to do it now! "

After hanging up the phone, Tom Ford roared again, "send me the press release!"

The most difficult to virtualization is: Commerce and trade

However, Tom Ford's enthusiasm for buying and selling is where it ends from.

After trying for a season, he found that he had to do a good job in autumn and winter series in advance and wait until the end of the September show to get on the shelves, which means that clothes can only stay in the warehouse for a month. In the spring of 17, Tom Ford announced that it would return to the normal schedule of New York fashion week.

　　 For half a century, fashion week is still needed because it is not only ornamental but also trading. That is to say, buying is a transaction between businessmen and consumers, and fashion week also carries a transaction between brand or designer and retailer.

Nelson Mui is Lian Ke Fu's fashion director, responsible for buying and selling men's clothing, as well as franchise business and commodity development. He told reporters in the doorway reporter that in order to protect the health and safety of the team, the team size of the fashion week and market activities has been reduced.

Lian Crawford is a buyer's department store. Normally, during fashion week, they spend a lot of time in showroom, depending on the size of the series, and sometimes they spend a whole day ordering. If it is women's clothing, there are also models to try on, in order to get more intuitive feel effect and matching scheme.

Now, affected by the epidemic, Lian Crawford must communicate with the brand sales staff to complete the order. For simple or similar products, they will order online. Many brands have set up virtual showroom to support video and other digital ordering. But this can not completely replace the offline exhibitions, Nelson said, "the clothing that showroom presents is often seen and felt by consumers in the shops, and therefore more realistic and commercialized."

"For fashion, personal experience is very important." Nelson has been a buyer for more than ten years. He thinks that comparing with lookbook or social media's carefully decorated photos, it is always better to choose in person. "Sometimes you have to touch your hands to know whether the texture is comfortable enough, the skin is tied, or is the skirt too heavy, or not like the upper body." This can not be replaced - even in the show, you can see it differently in showroom. "

This is exactly the same as Lin Jian's idea. On the whole of the fashion week in Shanghai, the halls decided to postpone until April - still insist on running online. " High price products still need to see real colors rather than pictures. , Look at the real color of the object, touch the fabric, and then try it on, and have a deeper understanding of the version. Lin Jian explains.

Lin Jian dismantled the display logic of products in showroom. "It may dismantle more broken bands, such as spring and summer, and there will be different methods of display and product mix between winter and spring. In fact, showroom ordering is mainly based on a single wave product mix."

At least, at this point in time, it will be very difficult for showroom and other parts of the business to go to the cloud with fashion week. Many brands bought by Lian Crawford did not even participate in the fashion show of major fashion week. In Nelson's view, Fashion week is more about interacting with consumers and stimulating consumers' interests. "Fashion show is a public relations event!"

The effect of "PR" will even surpass the stage of fashion week. Taking Shanghai fashion week as a base camp, it has been seeking to expand into different business circles in Shanghai city. Kaga, who is the principal agent of the media business card, has worked in shopping malls. He told the doorway reporter, "for shopping malls, on the one hand, it can be associated with a city event, and become a main activity venue. It has a good promotion effect on the reputation of the project. On the one hand, the positioning of the week itself will bring atmosphere to the area and help the shopping mall to sit on its own position. Xintiandi fashion has become the first choice for many designer brands to set up shop in Shanghai, which is closely related to the effects of fashion week itself. " 　

From a macro perspective, Kaga believes that "online and offline channels are different, but there is no relationship between them. No conflict, we must do it in theory. "

The question is always how to do it. Lin Jian clearly felt that Online brands want to extend to the next line and walk on multiple legs. Offline brands do not want to tie themselves to death, and want to go online. 。 "All of them feel that the single development is very limited now. I have to open up many channels. Now opening up multi-channel is an inevitable trend, but only if you are ready."

Whether they are stationed in showroom or cooperate with retailers or sell live goods by themselves, they all depend on the state of the company itself. "The level of your money, and your understanding of the market," Lin Jian thought the most undesirable step was to jump development and accomplish it overnight. "Even though there is no direct contact with the C end now, the retailer is directly on the C side. He has a basic judgement on you. You can't sell well even the buyer shop. Why do you think you sell better than the buyer shop?"

Fashion week still needs offline battleground, not only because commerce can not be completed online, but also because multi-channel is more suitable for the current environment.

Fashion week is a field.

Before Lin Jian founded the hall, he was a senior media man and wrote a fashion review column for several publications. He remembered the first time he went to London Fashion week to see his own designer works. When you look at the picture, you feel great. "I really sat down in the field and saw the completion of the dress."

"The scene is different." Lin Jian said.

Fashion show and fashion week reflect our age. This is the view of de Betak. He said in an interview with INTERVIEW, "we are in a bigger and stronger competition, and the competition is intense. Everyone needs to be exposed, and more media are exposed. Now it becomes a revelation in social media. but Social media exposure is not as expensive as traditional media. It should be lured in different ways. "

Twenty years ago, he participated in the production of brand show budget is several million, and now tens of millions. In an interview with Financial Times, he briefly analyzed the price range. "On average, the minimum budget is now 250 thousand dollars, and the high price can reach US $five million, which is not the highest, but it is the most top-level. In some cases, because the global show is expensive, it's only a small part of the industry, "he continued." I would say that the more expensive show, on average, costs 1~2 million dollars, and the average 25~50 million.

Compared with magnificent landscaping and decoration, " The biggest expense is just a place you can't see in a show. , " De Betak said, "it's spent on the logistics, lighting, and the expensive rental venues in the city."

In the Giorgio Armani big show, which was reserved for live broadcast under the line, the show was always well arranged. The towering imitation lotus leaf device is attached to the lotus pond composed of projection and lighting. When the model walks on the quadrangular extension platform, the picture switches, and the side looks past. The model seems to pass through the lotus leaf - the changing angle of view, obviously it is not seen in the fixed seat on the spot.

In addition, the overall environment of the screen is dim, but in fact, the main light source, anti throw light, model exit and fixed-point light of the T station are guaranteed at least, and may need ETC or other light equipment, such as the down lamp and the iodine tungsten lamp. There is also the design of lotus pond that sets off the atmosphere. It may be realized by the combination of projection, platform and lighting.

Everything is as usual. If there's any difference, it's probably just that there are no bloggers, buyers and stars in the picture. In other words, the input of luxury brands to fashion shows ensures that the brand's temperament and image can be achieved in both digital and live viewing.

　　 "Live broadcast" is essentially a means of play, whether it is webpage live on Armani or live broadcast on Taobao Tmall. What the brand official releases and can be found on the video website is more like a TV program moving to the computer screen. This level of production can not be solved by several mobile phones. When we talk about "show atmosphere", what we really talk about is the combination of setting, lighting and sound control. Video recording can seal all these things and move them to the line one by one.

　　 When all the elements come together, the show and commerce are interrelated, shaping the fashion week. Nelson thinks that to a certain extent, "going to the show" will take orders, which is sure to have an impact on the brand concept. A grand fashion show is sometimes difficult to present in its showroom. Ordering more depends on the product line itself and whether this series can arouse consumer interest. "

Lin Jian regarded the show as a icing on the cake. "Icing on the cake does not mean that it does not work at all, for example, at least several levels will help. The first is to help buyers understand more about this season's concept and understand it more vividly. On the other hand, looking at the overall collocation, the concept of "overall arrangement" can also help promote joint orders. I think it is still meaningful and not totally meaningless.

The next step is not simple.

From the previous media people to the current industrial chain, Lin Jian has become more and more difficult to get excited about the fashion show. Time is the main problem, but he will still take a SLR camera to see the show. Walking show is a short art. It will end in more than 20 minutes. Some details left in the camera lens can be recalled again and again.

"The part of the line is four dimensional, and there is a time axis in it. You passed it." Lin Jian said, "the details that can be presented are far more than the simple video. The video is actually two-dimensional. The larger the dimension, the more information will be loaded. , I think this is a very real thing. "

De Betak has said in many interviews that fashion shows need to be changed. He will still make a grand event for the spectators on the scene to convey emotions to the audience and help them understand and remember. When he was young, he regarded fashion show as a medium and apparatus. "I think it's really time for me to turn over this chapter and start a new chapter." He said to Vogue like this.

After careful examination, the two core functions of fashion show and fashion show, which are displayed in images and business transactions, need to be linked to two spaces of numbers and entities. Best, it can also leave some leeway to design genius in the show. Next, the development of fashion shows and fashion week may not be summed up by a simple "online" or "offline".

Facing the big brands' aggressive looting of consumers today, Nelson does not deny the grim situation, but he said, "indeed, luxury giants have more and more influence through marketing, but no one can predict what products will sell well. This is exactly the charm of fashion - a constant stream of surprises.