The Structure Comparison Of French, Italian And Japanese Sleeves

Due to the different cultures of different countries, the relationship between sleeve shape, sleeve cap and armhole is bound to be different. In the design of plate making structure, because of different culture and different processing methods, their own plate making ideas become open, which greatly widens the design scope of plate maker.

The following focuses on the representative two piece sleeves of France, Italy and Japan.

01 French two piece sleeve

French women's wear in the international influence is bigger, now introduced is called The ESMOD School of fashion from Harvard in fashion industry.

According to the upper body prototype and style changes, the front and back armholes are obtained. Different from other armholes, there are 1.5cm and 1cm horizontal parts at the bottom of the front and back armholes respectively, without a very round lower part, so as to facilitate better human activities. Fold the front chest dart, align the bottom of the front and rear armholes, keep the balance below the front and back bust line, connect the two points of AB, take the midpoint m, and the intersection of the front and rear armhole bottom is n (see Fig. 1 and 2).

From the completion of Figure 4, it can be seen that the inner and outer sides of the large sleeve piece are longer than those of the small sleeve piece, with q1i1 = q2i2 = 16cm, q1m1 = q2m2 = 20cm, p1j1 = p2j2 = 16cm, s1n1 = S2N2 = 16cm. The excess amount should be pulled out at the upper and lower parts of the sleeve elbow (see Figure 5).

The alignment points and eating power distribution of sleeve cap arc and armhole: A, B, C, D are located at a ', B', C ', d', OC = 7cm, OA = 8cm, CD = 5.5cm, ab = 6cm, where AB = a'B ', CD = c'd', and the upper and lower parts of sleeve cap are distributed according to different fabrics and styles (see Figure 6).

The French style two-piece sleeve is close to the dual sleeve matching method. The sleeve shape is more natural and casual. The front chest width and back width are not affected. As long as the sleeve side is not slanted back, it is OK.

02 Italian two piece sleeves

Cofia, Italy is a clothing college which is good at making cut with paper. The preparation method of two-piece sleeve is introduced below.

After the results of the front and back films are completed on the stage, the height from the shoulder point to the bottom of the armhole is measured as H (see Figure 7). Different from other methods, the modeling starts first, and then the process is done (see Figure 8).

The sleeve height = h minus 1cm, and the sleeve fat is about 1cm higher than the sleeve height. Make the big DC of cuff from point D, connect point e to point C of elbow line, 1cm inside the sleeve elbow is point F, connect FD and FH. FH was extended to point B so that GM = 5cm, HN = 3cm, Ao = SP = 3.5cm, and the sleeve cap curve was drawn. The distance between d1n line and DH line is 3.5cm, or connecting d1f1 extension line crossing N1 point (see Figure 9). Cut the inner extension line of elbow to f point, fold FD and FB respectively. An opening amount will be generated in the middle (see Fig. 10). Copy the inner line of the small sleeve piece to the large sleeve, so that k1d1 = k2d2 = 16cm, i1j1 = i2j2 = 16cm. Pull out the large middle sleeve (see Figure 11),

If the sleeve cap arc length ah is too short, add a small amount of q1q2 to both sides of point Q to connect f1q1 and f2q2 to the armhole, and then copy the inside line of large sleeve piece according to figure 10 (see Fig. 12). When eating power is 4cm, k2t and k1s are 1.5cm, and s to t eat power is 1cm; when eating power is 5cm, x2t and X1s are 1.8cm and 1.4cm respectively (see Figure 13)

Italian sleeves are characterized by more eating power, fullness, higher sleeve mountain and convenient movement. Some high-end fashion can eat as much as 9cm and 11cm, which of course should be sewn by hand.

03 Japanese two piece sleeves

There are many kinds of Japanese two-piece sleeve matching method, and the cultural style is a more common one, which is introduced below The sleeve matching method of Japan Institute of culture and clothing.

Figure 14 is a half body trapezoidal cultural prototype. The armhole shape is inclined in front, low in the front and high in the back, which is more convenient for the human body to move forward. According to the style change needs to be relaxed (FIG. 15)

The shadow part is to deepen the armhole and increase the latitude. Measure the front armhole height (FH) and the back armhole height (BH): according to the formula (FH + BH) / (2 × 0.83 = sleeve Hill height), then measure the front armhole length (FAH) and the back armhole length (bah). According to the fabric texture, design different draught, and add or subtract different variables of FAH and bah.

Use Figure 15 to create the outer contour of one sleeve (Figure 16). For the modeling of large sleeve and small sleeve (see Fig. 17), the cuff parameters are taken first, and then the front center line is the center line, and 3.5cm is taken from the inside and outside respectively. Take 1cm from the sleeve elbow and draw it straight, and take 1cm from the sleeve elbow inward to shape the arm bending shape. Then take the center line as the center line, take 1.5cm from the inside and outside respectively, do not take the borrowing amount of the cuff, and then draw the straight line again, and then take the front and back midline as the mirror surface, draw the arc to the bottom of the sleeve hill to complete the small sleeve piece.

Due to the borrowing of large and small sleeve pieces, the front large sleeve piece seam will be short, and the back large sleeve piece seam will be long (see Figure 18), and the alignment point between the sleeve Hill curve and the armhole and the eating power distribution (see Figure 19).