The Changing Story Of Chinese Clothing From Ancient Times To The Present
"Clothing is also politics in China". In the Chinese language world, "dress" has a special meaning. It represents civilization, civilization and orthodoxy. But the crown is only a path, but an expression. It leads to its own millennium.
In 1955, in the six hundred million ant, Robert Gillan, a French journalist, described his impression of China: "no matter where you go, people are wearing blue cloth." The girls also wore trousers. They wore exactly the same hair as men except drooping hair or peasant plait. A group of people, all of them, are just like a blue out of blue ink.
Gillan regrets that this country is an ant mountain, and the six hundred million people are "blue ants". Over the past twenty years, with the continuous selling of "six hundred million ants", this statement has frequently appeared in Western newspapers and periodicals. "Blue ant" has become the pronoun of mainland Chinese.
Apart from Pride and prejudice, Gillan's view is not exaggerated. In the winter of 1978, when Pierre Cardin was walking slowly towards the Badaling Great Wall, he still saw a sea of blue khaki. However, unlike the Gillan, the son of the Venice bankrupt businessman, the poor fashion designer who was a tailor apprentice, sniffed a different flavor in this frozen country.
This winter, Pierre Cardin had the idea of holding several fashion shows in Beijing. Later, he said, "this is a crazy idea. I thought it was impossible, but I did it. "
Indeed, the fashion show is no more than the Arabian Nights. In the winter of this year, despite the ice breaking, the vast and mysterious country is still in strict colors and imprisoned everywhere. For Western imports, this blue, gray world is not only doubtful, even hostile.
"In late November, the foreign friends Association sent a report that a Frenchman was going to have a fashion show. We had never heard of such activities at that time. " More than 20 years later, an old man who did not want to be named in his apartment in Beijing spinning house recalled the scene of that year: "at that time, the public opinion of reform and opening up had risen, but the atmosphere was still cool. No one dares to shoot this board.
Under the repeated lobbying and activities of Pierre Cardin, at the end of that year, the Ministry of textile industry took the lead, and the Ministry of foreign trade and light industry sent members to participate. A small group of officials carried out "three meetings". However, after several rounds of consultation, the report was still shelved.
There is no way out. Until early spring, the officials saw the hat.
This year's lunar new year, that is, in January 28, 1979, Deng Xiaoping began a eight day visit to the United States. Five days later, in a Coliseum in Texas, the "new China dreamer", who has just been named "the year of the year" by the times and has been fully reported in 48 full-length pages, has been wearing the white cowboy hat sent by two female knights. This symbolic detail not only sparked heated reports worldwide, but also made the performance of this dying young art very beautiful.
Cowboy hat is a symbol and a political metaphor. In response, these officials were very understanding, and they quickly changed the situation and quickly allowed the performance. At the same time, a number of restrictive requirements have also emerged: performance is not reported, not propaganda, "as low as possible"; not open to the public, only for the foreign trade, clothing industry officials and professionals to carry out "Internal observation"; when issuing tickets, all units should strictly control the selection of "good quality" audience. In addition, the three performances scheduled to be held in Beijing were also divided into two parts: two performances will be held in Shanghai after Beijing's premiere.
It was this decision that gave birth to the first fashion model team in China.
In February 1988, Mr. Pierre Cardin, the fashion designer (left two), was interviewed by reporters.
Debut
The premiere in Beijing is hard to judge by "success" or "failure". In March 10, 1979, when 8 French models and 4 Japanese models slowly walked onto a new T stand on the National Cultural Palace, the atmosphere on the scene was extremely heavy and tense. As one of the witnesses, Li Anding, the Xinhua news agency, later talked about "overcrowding" at the time, and hundreds of spectators mostly wore "blue gray uniforms and holding their breath". Another audience reminiscent: "when those female models appeared, I had a dizzy feeling." The audience sitting near me also looked grim and his expression changed dramatically. "
Compared with Beijing, Shanghai's atmosphere is much more relaxed. Take the ticket issuance as an example, the organizers only have three requirements, "professional counterparts", record names, and admission tickets must not be pferred. As a result, not only professional officials, but also many fashion designers have been admitted. More than 20 years later, Xu Wenyuan, designer of Shanghai clothing company recalled, "I saw at that time that the costumes he performed were new and unique, and their colors were also brilliant."
Besides those clothes, the makeup models have awakened many memories of old Shanghai.
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